Camber Plate Scratching Strut Tower

[HeelToeHero]

Hello there,

I'm considering the fact I'll likely need camber plates soon. As I am researching designs, I'm commonly noticing in the popular options the following:
the plate where the strut is mounted (IE the one that slides to provide adjustment) is sandwiched between a lower plate with studs and the metal of the shock tower.

I'm concerned that as adjustments are made the plate will scratch and wear the strut tower paint exposing it to the elements and corrosion. Are there designs that do not use this design feature and protect the shock tower paint/metal? I presume the reason for this compromising feature is to not increase the ride height by adding a camber plate.

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[NightmareMoon]

I believe there is usually a plate above and below the sliding mount, so the parts touching the car don't move when its being adjusted.

 

[HeelToeHero]

I believe there is usually a plate above and below the sliding mount, so the parts touching the car don't move when its being adjusted.

Not that I see for the ford design, maximum motorsports, and BMR.

I'm not sure about the Vorshlag or J&M. Those ones it appears for camber adjustments at least the strut tower is protected.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah, IDK each and every design.

Anyway, I don't think anybody consider that a problem. The plates and body metal are pretty hard stuff, so they really won't scratch easily at all. If you're concerned, maybe pick one with an extra standoff plate in there between the bearing plate and the strut tower (like the Steeda or Vorshlag plates.).

 

[Vicr]

No issues with these.

 

[HeelToeHero]

No issues with these.

The concern is under the shock tower. The top side doesn't have anything that moves during adjustment. On that design the plate slides against the paint under the shock tower.

 

[HeelToeHero]

Yeah, IDK each and every design.

Anyway, I don't think anybody consider that a problem. The plates and body metal are pretty hard stuff, so they really won't scratch easily at all. If you're concerned, maybe pick one with an extra standoff plate in there between the bearing plate and the strut tower (like the Steeda or Vorshlag plates.).

Ok so that too plate stays under the tower? I like that.
I wasn't sure from the instructions if that stayed under the tower or sat on top like the maximum motorsports design someone posted.

 

[NightmareMoon]

On the steeda both sandwich parts go underneath and clamp the strut bearing plate. The only things on top are the nuts. I have that set on my car.

 

[HeelToeHero]

Yea my post was wrong I will edit it.

 

[Norm Peterson]

It's probably best to jack the whole front end up when making adjustments so that any plate to tower sliding is done under minimal force, i.e. no sta-bar loading (from jacking up only one side) and minimum spring loading (since extended as far as easily possible).

Make some camber measurements before jacking, and change the camber after jacking by however much you want to change the camber. Re-check after lowering the car and at least rolling it a few feet backward and forward to the same place you made the 'before' measurements.


Norm

 

[HeelToeHero]

It's probably best to jack the whole front end up when making adjustments so that any plate to tower sliding is done under minimal force, i.e. no sta-bar loading (from jacking up only one side) and minimum spring loading (since extended as far as easily possible).

Make some camber measurements before jacking, and change the camber after jacking by however much you want to change the camber. Re-check after lowering the car and at least rolling it a few feet backward and forward to the same place you made the 'before' measurements.


Norm

Agree, no guarantee an alignment tech will spend that extra time though...

 

[Norm Peterson]

DIY.


Norm

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Agree, no guarantee an alignment tech will spend that extra time though...

If they don't, go somewhere else. They're supposed to be adjusted with the load off the front tires (which ensures no scratching concern).

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