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Enlarge strut tower opening for camber plate access?

Memphis9s

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I wouldn't go that aggressive with it. Leave a little horizontal material on top, even if just an 1/8 to 1/4 inch.... just in case...

Running same parts with same concerns, but I took it to a shop for the final alignment and they did charge me extra for the extra work.
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raptorgabe

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Yeah that’s a lot to take off . I’m gonna go this route tonight prolly . Hopefully it comes out good !

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oesman

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I wouldn't go that aggressive with it. Leave a little horizontal material on top, even if just an 1/8 to 1/4 inch.... just in case...
Yea i think I'm going to leave a little bit of a lip.

Running same parts with same concerns, but I took it to a shop for the final alignment and they did charge me extra for the extra work.
It's more work for them for sure, and why I wanna avoid doing the same thing myself all the time :).
 
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Hotpart.com

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What's the size of the threaded portion of the strut? Something like this will work for you and allow camber adjustment without cutting your car apart. All would need is the length of the shoulder/threaded part and the thread and should size. These also get the spring load off the spherical bearing.

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oesman

oesman

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What's the size of the threaded portion of the strut? Something like this will work for you and allow camber adjustment without cutting your car apart. All would need is the length of the shoulder/threaded part and the thread and should size. These also get the spring load off the spherical bearing.
Yea I've thought about these. I'll go check out the thread size, but from my initial research it seemed like I had to use Pedder's plates. Luckily the car is a 100% toy project and not a street car so worst case cutting things open isn't that big a deal.
 

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oesman

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I got mine done. Here is a video if anyone is curious about the setup:

[ame]

Ultimately it was real easy to just use an angle grinder with a small cutting disk, followed by a grinding disk and then a flap wheel and some paint.
 

qtrracer

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Why? These cars don't need the radical static camber the older cars needed. The design of the lower pivot creates a virtual point that moves with steering input. The design attempts to optimize camber and caster in real time as the car goes through a corner. Right now, static camber at -1.8 - 2* should be more than enough. Dynamic camber gain through caster with the lower virtual pivot is pretty dramatic. Dump the camber bolts as that throws off the design. Just use the CC plates to gain the needed static camber.
 
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oesman

oesman

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Why? These cars don't need the radical static camber the older cars needed. The design of the lower pivot creates a virtual point that moves with steering input. The design attempts to optimize camber and caster in real time as the car goes through a corner. Right now, static camber at -1.8 - 2* should be more than enough. Dynamic camber gain through caster with the lower virtual pivot is pretty dramatic. Dump the camber bolts as that throws off the design. Just use the CC plates to gain the needed static camber.
Extreme wheel fitment, had not slot the strut to knuckle too.
 

xXANCHORMONXx

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Why? These cars don't need the radical static camber the older cars needed. The design of the lower pivot creates a virtual point that moves with steering input. The design attempts to optimize camber and caster in real time as the car goes through a corner. Right now, static camber at -1.8 - 2* should be more than enough. Dynamic camber gain through caster with the lower virtual pivot is pretty dramatic. Dump the camber bolts as that throws off the design. Just use the CC plates to gain the needed static camber.
The camber plate won’t get you enough.

I’m running 3.7 up front with bolts and plates. My slicks are finally wearing evenly now.
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