Camber, loaded vs unloaded suspension

[Bossdog]

Can anyone tell me if the camber measurement is the same or different based on weather the suspension is loaded or unloaded?
It seems if the knuckle moves in an arc, ( which I am not certain it does) it would be less unloaded (drooping) vs loaded.

I've ordered a camber gauge (inclinometer) to see what my rear camber is. My car has been lowered. My iphone level says it -1 as measured from both the wheel (rim) and the rotor but I'm guessing that is just a rough estimate. If that is accurate, I'm guessing its pulled all the way outboard in the adjustment slot.

For track purposes I'd like to lock out the factory rear adjustment. I'm hoping I can push it all the way inboard and use the BMR lock out kit to lock it there and avoid an adjustable camber arm for $400.

I'm trying to have one rear camber setting for street and HPDE. Any opinions on how much rear camber is "too much" for street? I was hoping to land around -2, but based on others experience it could be as much as -2.2 or slightly more.

Is bringing it back from a locked position of 2.2 or 2.3 to 2.0 worth the $400 for adjustable camber arms? I'm just considering tire ware.

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[kz]

Camber will change with suspension travel (depends on suspension design) but should be set at ride height (so with driver inside).
I think that setting it all the way inboard is going to give way to much camber (-3 or more) - if you're looking for adjustability, adjustable arms are worth it - but they change the ease and accuracy of the adjustment, not necessarily the range (which is the only real benefit - they really don't do much more other than less weight in some cases).

 

[Bossdog]

Thanks for the input. I don't really need adjustability in the sense of changing it regularly. My intent is to fix it about -2 and leave it there but I definitely want to lock out the factory adjustment to eliminate that variable. as you probably know, the BMR lock out has 2 positions, all the way in or all the way out. I have the BMR adjustable rear camber arms ordered but I was hoping just the lock out kit would hit the sweet spot and save me $400. If need be I can lock it out inboard and dial back the negative camber with the outboard adjustment.

 

[K4fxd]

Why not just set it using the factory adjustment and saving a bunch of money?

I am using the factory adjustments and they do not move if properly torqued.

 

[Bossdog]

Why not just set it using the factory adjustment and saving a bunch of money?

I am using the factory adjustments and they do not move if properly torqued.

My concern was road course activity. I don' know how often slippage happens with track use, but I would like to eliminate that possibility so I can worry about all the other variables track day present.

 

[K4fxd]

I track 5 or 6 times a year, they have never moved. YMMV

 

[kz]

Thanks for the input. I don't really need adjustability in the sense of changing it regularly. My intent is to fix it about -2 and leave it there but I definitely want to lock out the factory adjustment to eliminate that variable. as you probably know, the BMR lock out has 2 positions, all the way in or all the way out. I have the BMR adjustable rear camber arms ordered but I was hoping just the lock out kit would hit the sweet spot and save me $400. If need be I can lock it out inboard and dial back the negative camber with the outboard adjustment.

I don't think that is truly feasible - every time you adjust the toe, camber changes in these cars. So unless you're not too particular about having camber set exactly where you want it and the same between left and right, locking it out (assuming it falls where you want it which I think is questionable) isn't going to work.

 

[Bossdog]

When I'm installing the BMR lock out kit, how much can I drop the cradle / loosen cradle bolt, without supporting the cradle or causing other issues to get a little bit more room to work. The car will be on a 4-post/roll on lift with slider jack.
Something I've never done before.

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