Camber Adjustment

[NightmareMoon]

These are the numbers I got from the shop:

The user manual section (posted above) mentions different camber settings for "street" and "track" and my values would correspond to track (front, the rear is the same for both).

How am I supposed to change street vs track, from what you wrote, without camber plates is not clear to me. How is the shop to adjust the values is not clear either.

Anyway, while I agree that the margin by which it exceeds the recommended values is negligible, the reason why I asked for the geometry check was that at maximum turn to left, while driving on sharp winding road, the front right tire seems to be colliding (and screeching over) the front vent.

The shop concluded that since the wheel cannot be set correctly they would not look into this issue either. I am sceptical about the wheel setup being cause of this, it looks more like a loose vent (not properly fixed during the repair), which gets pushed onto the tire when driving a bit faster (~25 mph). At a shopping mall parking lot I cannot reproduce this.

Screeching over what front vent?

The car has not way to adjust camber from the factory, unless they added camber plates with the handling pack. So there is not way to set camber for street and change it for track and back. They list both numbers to advise people who have the handling pack and who might want to change it. Any change really requires an alignment rack, unless you really know exactly what you're doing.

However - Anyone who actually knows what camber does for handling and who is actually tracking the car will want a lot more than what ford advises for 'track' camber. I really don't understand adding a bunch of 'handling' parts to a car and then absolutely neutering the car with stock camber.

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[murick]

Screeching over what front vent?

This one. I put a duct tape over the edge which I suspect to get brushed by the tire.

So there is not way to set camber for street and change it for track and back. They list both numbers to advise people who have the handling pack and who might want to change it. Any change really requires an alignment rack, unless you really know exactly what you're doing.

Well, if you look at the page from the user manual posted earlier in the thread, there are two different tables. One for Mach 1 without the handling pack and the other one for the one with HP and they have different values. I was quoting the table w/o HP (as the Euro Mach 1s are all non-HP versions). Yet, even without HP (and camber plates), Ford is apparently advising on different camber settings for street and track.

 

[NightmareMoon]

This one. I put a duct tape over the edge which I suspect to get brushed by the tire.

Well, if you look at the page from the user manual posted earlier in the thread, there are two different tables. One for Mach 1 without the handling pack and the other one for the one with HP and they have different values. I was quoting the table w/o HP (as the Euro Mach 1s are all non-HP versions). Yet, even without HP (and camber plates), Ford is apparently advising on different camber settings for street and track.

Thanks for the pic.

Do you have aftermarket wheels OR tires?

 

[K4fxd]

your camber settings are fine, if anything you should make the left side -1.80

 

[murick]

Do you have aftermarket wheels OR tires?

No, everything stock (for non-HP Mach 1).

your camber settings are fine, if anything you should make the left side -1.80

I guess it is another way to look at it.

The tire screeching over the vent however makes me worried about that there is still something unresolved.

 

[NightmareMoon]

No, everything stock (for non-HP Mach 1).


I guess it is another way to look at it.

The tire screeching over the vent however makes me worried about that there is still something unresolved.

If everything is stock, I'm going to hazard a bet that its not rubbing on that part. It may be, but your tape should show it definitively.

 

[murick]

If everything is stock, I'm going to hazard a bet that its not rubbing on that part. It may be, but your tape should show it definitively.

Yep. I do not have an up to date photo of the tape. The one I posted is from when I put it on .

 

[K4fxd]

If it is hitting the vent, something is amiss.

 

[Vertex]

I realize your concerns about doing every thing right the first time. Others doing what you plan do might post up their process so you maybe wait till then. Ford / Steeda camber plates are $400ish if you want to add that to the package you’re after. Lowering also affects your front toe so you’re going to need an alignment after your springs, wheels, tires are installed. I’m not sure Ford gave enough adjustment for camber but the spec has different settings for track/ street so maybe there is for non HP knowing that the camber plates only came on the HP. Your front struts are coming out to swap springs so, yea, that would be the time to put in some camber plates.

I will note on my vehicle when I got an alignment done under warranty because the inside of the front tires had cords showing from NORMAL driving at 4700 miles that they could not adjust them much. They had to dremmel something out a little bit to get some adjustment per what the factory stated and I still really wasn't happy with what we got out of them but I'll have to wait and see what ends up happening with the tires this go around (got PS4S for replacements so they will definitely last longer regardless).

Someone said I should try going for 0 on the camber but I think they were only able to get -1.25/-1.3 on the camber adjustment in the front end. I'd have to figure out where I put my copy of the paperwork because I don't remember and actually I never did end up getting a copy of the actual RO, I think the tech just printed me off an extra printout from the rack since I was hanging out while he did it(used to work at the shop and friends with the tech)

 

[K4fxd]

Toe wears tires not camber. Unless it is way out, like -4.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I will note on my vehicle when I got an alignment done under warranty because the inside of the front tires had cords showing from NORMAL driving at 4700 miles that they could not adjust them much. They had to dremmel something out a little bit to get some adjustment per what the factory stated and I still really wasn't happy with what we got out of them but I'll have to wait and see what ends up happening with the tires this go around (got PS4S for replacements so they will definitely last longer regardless).

Someone said I should try going for 0 on the camber but I think they were only able to get -1.25/-1.3 on the camber adjustment in the front end. I'd have to figure out where I put my copy of the paperwork because I don't remember and actually I never did end up getting a copy of the actual RO, I think the tech just printed me off an extra printout from the rack since I was hanging out while he did it(used to work at the shop and friends with the tech)

They might have to dremmel the strut to spindle bolt holes if you can't get the camber in spec. That's a factory procedure, but it usually only applies when a car has hit a curb or been in a fender bender and something is off and can't quite get back to spec.

Camber will be a negative non-zero value, like -1.3, -1.5, -1.75, etc. It WONT be zero. camber is how tilted the wheels are when viewed from above or from the front or back. If someone told you to get 0 camber, the did you no favors. That's was terrible advice.

TOE is what is likely to be zero or damn near zero.

 

[Vertex]

They might have to dremmel the strut to spindle bolt holes if you can't get the camber in spec. That's a factory procedure, but it usually only applies when a car has hit a curb or been in a fender bender and something is off and can't quite get back to spec.

Camber will be a negative non-zero value, like -1.3, -1.5, -1.75, etc. It WONT be zero. camber is how tilted the wheels are when viewed from above or from the front or back.

TOE is what is likely to be zero or damn near zero.

Yup that is what it was, however, as far as the procedure I think it states that if you want more adjustment you are not to dremmel out more than I think it was 1 or 2mm from the original hole which is essentially nothing. I've never hit anything with the car, it was just in the alignment procedure.

Just wanted to note because the inside tread wear was very bad and still had lots of meat left on the center and outer edge of the tires compared to the inside having cords poking out that I cut my hands on

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yup that is what it was, however, as far as the procedure I think it states that if you want more adjustment you are not to dremmel out more than I think it was 1 or 2mm from the original hole which is essentially nothing. I've never hit anything with the car, it was just in the alignment procedure.

Just wanted to note because the inside tread wear was very bad and still had lots of meat left on the center and outer edge of the tires compared to the inside having cords poking out that I cut my hands on

Yeah, so that's when you want to give the car a smidge of front toe-in. Rumor is that on the road with the dynamic forces of the road dragging on the tire, zero static toe turns into a slight amount of toe out, which accelerates that inside edge wear... So you dial for slight static toe-in, which is nice for a stable road feel, and it helps keep the dynamic toe close to zero and gives the absolute minimum wear. Making the camber too low just ruins the handling.

 

[Vertex]

Yeah, so that's when you want to give the car a smidge of front toe-in. Rumor is that on the road with the dynamic forces of the road dragging on the tire, zero static toe turns into a slight amount of toe out, which accelerates that inside edge wear... So you dial for slight static toe-in, which is nice for a stable road feel, and it helps keep the dynamic toe close to zero and gives the absolute minimum wear. Making the camber too low just ruins the handling.

So far with the new tires on car has felt great, and even before the new tires honestly it felt good, just the fact that the cup 2's really like to tramline like a mofo. That feeling being completely gone after I got the PS4S on just made it perfect for me. Like I said I will have to just pay attention whenever she is up in the air. When I can finally take her back out (hopefully next week) and in a couple thousand more miles I will rotate tires side to side and make sure they're wearing good. I've got roughly 7k miles on the PS4S right now.

 

[K4fxd]

, just the fact that the cup 2's really like to tramline like a mofo.

Slight toe out will cause this too.

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