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CAI IAT Modifications

Paul McWhiskey

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I have the FP PP2 installed on my car and have never been impressed with IAT since install. After noodling here and other places in the interweb I decided to make a few mods to it to see if I could lower IAT. Since the GT 350 airbox did not seal on the bottom of my hood and I was sure that was the source of all of the hot air I got a piece of pipe insulation and installed it over the rubber seal on the airbox. As you can see in the attached photo it made contact with the insulation on the underside of the hood in most places. But it still left spots where it did not seal. So, at those spots I added some sticky backed foam tape. I was quite surprised how much of a difference this made. From a cold engine and ambient temp at 69 degrees I took a trip of about 20 miles which entailed about 3 miles to the highway with 4 stop lights to the onramp and 16 miles at highway speed and about 1 mile from highway exit with two lights to my destination. IAT remained at 3 degrees above OAT indicated on the highway and only rose to about 7 degrees over OAT after exit of highway to my destination.

After about a 20-minute stop I started my return trip. With the engine and air inlet system now heat soaked IAT dropped from 102 degrees quite rapidly after start-up. Much faster than it ever did previously. On the highway back IAT stayed about 6 degrees over OAT and maintained very close to that after exit from highway to my home. Since the foam tape does not look all that nice on top of the pipe insulation, I am going to take it off and install on the inside of the insulation to see if that will provide a seal on the underside of the hood. I know that this is not the eye candy that many prefer, but I am only concerned with attempting to get lower IAT's.

Now, I believe that much of the heat is transmitted through the filter box and inlet duct. My question is, has anyone tried using Lizardskin thermal spray on the box and duct? I have seen many apply several different types of insulation that needs to be cut and glued or has adhesive backing but I think that it would be much easier to mask and spray and may also provide better coverage.

What are your thoughts?

Airbox.jpeg
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Livernois Motorsports

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I have the cold air intake we sell on my 2016 gt right now with a TVS 2650, the IAT when I was n/a with the box was maybe 2-4 degrees over ambient temps. I always recommend a closed air box
 

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IMO looks ugly. A better (but albeit more expensive) solution for this would have been the GT500 airbox and lid which seals 100% and looks OEM. Also open up the air inlet in the front grill to get more fresh air.

My FPP2 airbox sees 2-3* above ambient without any modifications besides the grill opening. I also lined the back of the box with gold reflective tape so that it reduces the radiant heat from the head and manifolds.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/p-gt500-air-box-lid-kit-gt500airboxlidkit

1663342121349.png
 
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paulm1

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I have a base 21 gt, bought in march. I drilled out the honeycomb blocking air inlet duct, installed a k&n filter and my iat's while moving are never higher than 2 degrees above outside temp.
 

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Paul McWhiskey

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IMO looks ugly. A better (but albeit more expensive) solution for this would have been the GT500 airbox and lid which seals 100% and looks OEM. Also open up the air inlet in the front grill to get more fresh air.

My FPP2 airbox sees 2-3* above ambient without any modifications besides the grill opening. I also lined the back of the box with gold reflective tape so that it reduces the radiant heat from the head and manifolds.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/p-gt500-air-box-lid-kit-gt500airboxlidkit

1663342121349.png
As I said, it is not eye candy. This is a work in progress. I am not attracted to the weaves and foils glued to the box and tube. I think that it can be done faster and easier with a better finish by applying a thermal spray coating. Grill is already cut out.
 
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Paul McWhiskey

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Zrussian13

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When I was na my jlt ran 2-3° above ambient when ever I was moving with no modifications other than 3-4 honeycombs cut out and taking a little extra time to make sure it lined up and sealed to the hood when closed. Any intake should run close to ambient when moving regardless of the crazy shit we think up. Iats while sitting in a staging lane before a run, now that's a different story.
 

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Paul McWhiskey

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No I haven’t. I was surprised to see dedicated plastic thermal coatings so I had to post the link.
I agree that it is interesting. However, being located in the UK is not helpful. I have the feeling that it would be somewhat expensive also.
 

GregO

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I agree that it is interesting. However, being located in the UK is not helpful. I have the feeling that it would be somewhat expensive also.
They have a location in North Carolina
I agree, it probably isn’t the most affordable but one never knows.
 
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Paul McWhiskey

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They have a location in North Carolina
I agree, it probably isn’t the most affordable but one never knows.
Perhaps Monday I will give them a call and see what I can find out. Thanks!
 

JohnnyGT

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IMO looks ugly. A better (but albeit more expensive) solution for this would have been the GT500 airbox and lid which seals 100% and looks OEM. Also open up the air inlet in the front grill to get more fresh air.

My FPP2 airbox sees 2-3* above ambient without any modifications besides the grill opening. I also lined the back of the box with gold reflective tape so that it reduces the radiant heat from the head and manifolds.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/p-gt500-air-box-lid-kit-gt500airboxlidkit

1663342121349.png
Damn $250 for that?

I may have to indulge.
 
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Paul McWhiskey

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OK, so far, the best response that I have had was from Lizard Skin. Their thermal coating will not be very durable unless it is covered with their topcoat or paint. Then, it appears that it should survive under hood quite well. However, they do not have aerosol cans for the thermal coat and their topcoat has supply chain issues at this time (I have not looked for the topcoat at any other vendors). So, in order to go this route, I guess, I may have to find a shop that sprays Lizardskin products, prep? and mask (to make sure that all connections are not coated) the tube and box for coating. Not that it is a problem, but more expensive.

My initial idea is still to find a way to thermally protect these parts without having to make it look like a deep space probe and require several hours to do so. I am not discounting wrapping in some type of reflective tape or heat resistant adhesive cloth and may have to take that route. It is just that I believe that there has to be a way to accomplish this with simpler and possibly less time-consuming ways. Don't get me wrong, I am not cheap. It just seems that if there are coatings that can be applied with aerosol cans to protect and "somewhat" reduce heat in the engine bay from headers there must be a product that can be applied to plastic to reduce heat in the inlet system and reduce IAT.

I may be forced to go the cloth and tape route and will if that is the only way. But I just don't want to find out that I could have bought a $50 can of "Heat can't get past me" after I do so.

I do appreciate the suggestions so far so if anyone has any more, please let me know.
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