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DrumReaper

DrumReaper

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Thanks... my service guy was saying he may be able to keep it but no guarantee.

Thanks for the removal instructions. That confirms what I saw on CJPP.
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UnhandledException

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You guys all made fun of me when I said I drive the shelby in snow but I actually believe keeping the car in a garage that long will cause the issues you just mentioned Drum such as the glues not holding or panel gaps getting worse. I drove my car in salt and snow and there is not a speck of rust or scratch or anything anywhere and I inspected the entire underside and suspension components with a magnifying glass.

A very reputable xpel shop owner who has been doing this for 20 years told me that the salt on cars do act like a protective film and he firsthand experimented with this for several winters.

Furthermore he said if you live in a climate that sees over 60-70F of temperature changes, keeping the car in a garage for a long time takes its toll on every single component of that car. Cars have several thousand components that all interact/move physically even if not by rotating the temperature and humidity changes alone causes them to expand/contract. Its much better to keep them gradually adapt then to keep them in a garage.

When i get my ZR1, you know what the first mod is after full xpel? Snow tires:)

The guy at the top of GM and Corvette engineering are true car nuts. I forget the name (not Tadge) but this guy lives in detroit and both himself and his wife own corvettes (z06s) and they are regularly driven in snow. Its because of this guy Michelin built a specific snow tire set for ZR1. How amazing is that:)

I’ll say this, do a good xpel protection on your car and dont look back. I sprayed underbody with fluid film which after 6 months still appears to be repelling water like crazy.
 
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DrumReaper

DrumReaper

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You guys all made fun of me when I said I drive the shelby in snow but I actually believe keeping the car in a garage that long will cause the issues you just mentioned Drum such as the glues not holding or panel gaps getting worse. I drove my car in salt and snow and there is not a speck of rust or scratch or anything anywhere and I inspected the entire underside and suspension components with a magnifying glass.

A very reputable xpel shop owner who has been doing this for 20 years told me that the salt on cars do act like a protective film and he firsthand experimented with this for several winters.

Furthermore he said if you live in a climate that sees over 60-70F of temperature changes, keeping the car in a garage for a long time takes its toll on every single component of that car. Cars have several thousand components that all interact/move physically even if not by rotating the temperature and humidity changes alone causes them to expand/contract. Its much better to keep them gradually adapt then to keep them in a garage.

When i get my ZR1, you know what the first mod is after full xpel? Snow tires:)

The guy at the top of GM and Corvette engineering are true car nuts. I forget the name (not Tadge) but this guy lives in detroit and both himself and his wife own corvettes (z06s) and they are regularly driven in snow. Its because of this guy Michelin built a specific snow tire set for ZR1. How amazing is that:)

I’ll say this, do a good xpel protection on your car and dont look back. I sprayed underbody with fluid film which after 6 months still appears to be repelling water like crazy.
With all due respect, corrosion is a known fact. Your local XPeL guy may know XPeL but it doesn’t sound like he’s a chemist. Aside from that, as this isn’t a salt corrosion post, my car was frequently taken out during the winter months in South Carolina (low 25-30*F) on sunny, dry days.

I don’t believe this has anything to do with how car guys store vs drive their cars, and if anything, driving the car in cold temps would aggravate the adhesion process more so than storage as multiple forces act upon the tailight panel during driving than sitting.

Glad you are loving your ride in the cold and the warm. I’m doing the exact same.
 
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The tail light panel emblem has two posts: one at the 1 o’clock and another at the 7 o’clock.
 

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
Is this no longer an option?https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-16600-MA

So I washed the car today and found the driver's side is completely broken free. Gonna take to the dealer before I lose the badge and see what they say.
The original "badgeless" deck lid trim panel sold through FRPP was discontinued a couple of years ago. The part was resurrected fairly recently with one difference - the new panel has two horizontal lines mid way up the panel.

I purchased the original unit from FRPP and was very happy with it.




IMG_1057.webp






The same company makes both the OEM panels as well as those sold by Ford Racing. Here is the backside of my original as well as the badgeless panel. The OEM panel is on the bottom and you can identify it via the two diagonally located, silver pins near the center. Those are from the badge itself as the ends are melted in place once installed in the panel holes (which the FR piece does not have).

IMG_1058.webp




Factory GT350 panel from the inside...

IMG_1064.webp




Ford Racing panel...

IMG_1066.webp




Installed...

zzz%20IMG_4343-Edit.jpg




I actually believe keeping the car in a garage that long will cause the issues you just mentioned Drum such as the glues not holding or panel gaps getting worse. I drove my car in salt and snow and there is not a speck of rust or scratch or anything anywhere and I inspected the entire underside and suspension components with a magnifying glass.

A very reputable xpel shop owner who has been doing this for 20 years told me that the salt on cars do act like a protective film...
The failure on Drum Reaper's badge wasn't due to "glue not holding" as that isn't how the badges are installed. The badge pin ends are melted once they are installed through holes in the trim panel. I've seen a few of these exact failures before but they are indeed fairly rare.

As for driving your car in a salt bath...there is absolutely corrosion taking place where you have something ferrous that isn't treated via a coating, paint, or is slathered in grease, etc. Corrosion is also taking place between fasteners such as in the threads of various nuts and bolts.
 

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Mine is coming loose on the left side as well at 1900 miles. Frustrating. I’ll warranty it though
 

Epiphany

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The backside of an OEM Ford GT350R emblem...

 

Dr. JL

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Good luck at the dealership. Looks like blunt-force trauma to me. An internal investigation may be in order.
 

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Good luck at the dealership. Looks like blunt-force trauma to me. An internal investigation may be in order.
If kids are involved, we may never know the answer :D
 
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DrumReaper

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Good luck at the dealership. Looks like blunt-force trauma to me. An internal investigation may be in order.
Interesting...

Blunt force would be a death sentence. Spontaneous failure was the culprit.
 

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Just left my dealer. The body shop manager (a good guy) told me he expects a hard time trying to warranty this. Ford will assume it was impact damage even though I clearly have no signs of impact. As posted earlier in this thread a new part is $900. He offered to try the warranty process if I would like if it gets denied I will be pissed.
 
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I was told by my service department to bring the car by cause Ford wanted pics, even after I had already sent them pics.
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