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Brake upgrades for GT

Grimace427

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DBA no doubt will have two piece rotors, hell they might already have them for the '13-14 GT500's which use the same brakes.
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e30og

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PP is a $3700 option here, but I see your point. I am still open to better brake options. I might just add PP back.
wow $3700 is a lot!

You still get the wheels and tires, brakes, K brace, 3.73 Torsen, and the other suspension bits although I dont know if you plan on putting bigger hardware than all that. If you do screw it, but you will end up spending a hell of a lot more than 3700...I would figure on suspension wheels tires rear axle brakes nearly $10k (paying for installation too). Otherwise go with Ford's and edit from there
 

wproctor411

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Is there anything in the pipeline from Stoptech or AP racing yet? I deleted the GTPP from my order. Plan is to turn my GT into a track car so I figured I would have ended up replacing most of the components in the GTPP anyhow.
Your taking a step in the right direction for a track car, but the PP brakes might be worth the package price, replace the sway bar, springs, and shocks and sell the PP parts. Then start cutting weight...i'm sure someone will have a k-member or other weight reduction items next spring/summer.
 

908ssp

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If you want a serious track car you are right to order as stripped a car as possible. Because the next thing is strip it further. There is loads of sound deadening insulation, that you will want to remove. Race seats will save weight. Get rid of the back seat close off the pass through. Adding back the roll bar will get you back some of that weight but it is worth it in chassis stiffness and safety.

Coil overs for the front will give you more room for bigger front wheels and tires. You can probably go as large as 11.5" in the back by just removeing the shock cover so you want as big a front wheels as possible. The GT350 is being tested with 305s all around. Stickiest tires you can find on the lightest wheels you can afford. I wouldn't put any money in sway bars until after you feel out your coil over results since you'll be stiffening the springs considerably they might not need changing. Move the battery to the back in the bottom of the spare wheel cavity is ideal. Now your big brakes will do you some good.
 

Viperbluecobra

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Does anyone have a break down on the 2015 GT the difference between the stock brakes and brembo front brakes.

Reason I ask, is that I was at the dealer last week, and they had a GT with Anniversary package, and the front brakes looked huge. However, they were not labeled brembo like the PP does.
 

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FiveLiterDreamer

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The brakes on the 2015 GT are the 13.9 in rotors off the TP 2014 GT the 2015 GTPP has the brembos off of the 14 GT500.
 
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L8APEX

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Does anyone have a break down on the 2015 GT the difference between the stock brakes and brembo front brakes.

Reason I ask, is that I was at the dealer last week, and they had a GT with Anniversary package, and the front brakes looked huge. However, they were not labeled brembo like the PP does.
Brembos are fixed calipers. Non-GTPP brakes are a floating caliper design. Big difference in modulation and feel of braking.
 

Grimace427

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Brembos are fixed calipers. Non-GTPP brakes are a floating caliper design. Big difference in modulation and feel of braking.
Actually I believe they are 4-piston fixed calipers on the base GT.

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Jimdohc

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It's your money. But this is from experience. I probably spent over 30k in new upgraded brake parts. Plus, 20k to replace warn parts. The chase for perfect braking is a long road. My short list will bring the most gains for the least money and within 95% of off-the-shelf "race" brakes.

Limiting factor on both GT & GT PP brakes, in this order:
tires (street spec, small) -> Go big & sticky, tires will determine everything else. Tune brakes to tires.
pads (street spec) -> Go higher temp range track pads. experiment.
fluid (street spec, long life) -> Go high temp & change often, it's has a short life
soft lines (cost) -> Go SS
rotors (not the best vane design, size is not a problem) -> Go QUALITY 2pc., look for good vane design.
suspension (soft) -> Go stiffer to allow more rear tire grip under braking.
too much front bias (for safety in wet weather) -> Use higher friction rear pad, need to experiment.
rear rotors too small (to allow drag slicks) -> find bigger rotor that fits on hub & build caliper offset bracket.

Unless you're building a 100+k time attack car. Both GT & GT PP front calipers will work great. Just try tires, pads, and SS lines. Change the fluid often. If you're racing over a long distance, 2pc rotors & air guides or ducting for cooling (have to do for all brakes, not just GT/GT PP). You can fix front/rear bias by experimenting with higher mu (friction) pads in the rear. That alone will take care of most needs. You can save the $10k in special brakes. Use it for track fees, travel, gas, tires & pads.
 

Plimmer

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I'm also looking to build a serious track day car and bought the 300A GT because I knew I'd upgrade the brakes. So our options currently are:
Ford M-2300-TA 15" at $3,350
Brembo 15" 1N2.9047A1 at $4,470
AP Racing 15" at $unknown
Any others??

Anyway, I don't mind spending $$$$ to get brakes that will last a 1 hour track session running slicks, as long as i understand the difference between the lower priced 15" kits and the high dollar stuff. Also noticed that AP has a 398mm disc, but maybe overkill?

Anyway, assuming approx $4,500 budget, what would you guys go for?
 

DivineStrike

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From my conversations with AP racing, their 15 in rotors are very good for the mustang chassis possibly a little overkill. They said their 14 inch rotors are plenty good enough for the size and weight of the vehicle.

The rotors are about 800 or so a piece. From what I understand they are working on something for the rear as well.

I plan to go AP rotors eventually, just not yet.
 

DivineStrike

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Also keep in mind the PP radiator alone is over $600, let alone the advanced TC, Advanced Trac tuning.
 
 








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