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Ghosted_10spd

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Shouldn't ever really be "0"
Unless they have been turned off, limited, or desensitized.

99% of the time if your foot is down, they are adding or removing.
Reviving a dead thread here but currently dialing in my p1sc1 stg2 kit on e85. Currently at wot the knockR signal goes from -10 to 0 around 4500 rpm and stays at 0 all the way to redline. Is that normal ? What should I look for in order to improve it if it’s not
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whatsup62

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Reviving a dead thread here but currently dialing in my p1sc1 stg2 kit on e85. Currently at wot the knockR signal goes from -10 to 0 around 4500 rpm and stays at 0 all the way to redline. Is that normal ? What should I look for in order to improve it if it’s not
A few pieces of info still needed. Who is your tuner and what device are you using?
For me it was Lund and the nGauge. Most the time driving around it was always on 0. Stimes going down the interstate up a incline in 6th gear I would see it add timing which would be a negative (-) number. No way could I watch that at WOT - that is what logs are for. On the Lund/nGauge tune if I remember right the max decimal was -4.99 so I dont know how you would ever see -10.
 

Ghosted_10spd

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A few pieces of info still needed. Who is your tuner and what device are you using?
For me it was Lund and the nGauge. Most the time driving around it was always on 0. Stimes going down the interstate up a incline in 6th gear I would see it add timing which would be a negative (-) number. No way could I watch that at WOT - that is what logs are for. On the Lund/nGauge tune if I remember right the max decimal was -4.99 so I dont know how you would ever see -10.
oh yea I’m tuned by Lund and using the nGauge. Mine only really gets to 0 when I let off the gas and when i am at wot climbing past 4500rpm.
 
 








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