BMR vs Steeda low profile jacking rails

[tj@steeda]

I am sure if you private messaged BMR Tech, he would be happy to provide you with pricing.

As far as your question to me above, I don't have that answer.

TJ

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[HoosierDaddy]

Also, the reason we went with a slight gap between the chassis and the rails is to prevent noise, chassis deformation and chassis creaking.

Having run the BMR's for a month or so, have you found that there is any noise or chassis creaking attributable to the BMR jacking rails?

Absolutely none. I've also driven from Scottsdale AZ to Casper WY for the eclipse including 20+ miles of dirt roads due to Ford's stupid Nav thinking that's the best way to get back on route after I drove 1/2 mile off the route. LoL

IMO, the story about designing in a gap for that reason is marketing Hype. Kind of like the higher strength bolts they tout that don't do anything but keep the rail from falling off.

To cut manufacturing costs they weld extensions with the bolt holes to the boxed portion. The boxed portion doesn't touch the car because of the way the extensions are welded on. No way to avoid the gap with extensions unless you butt welded them to the boxed section and ground down the bead.

When reviewing the installation instructions on BMR's website and comparing the CJR001 against the CJR002, I noticed that the full length CJR001 had a step to shave off the sealant; however, the CJR002 did not. Are you saying it is still required to remove sealant for the CJR002 as well?

It's up to the buyer. I scraped it off to make sure the rails are perfectly flush with the body. It think it took about 2-3 minutes per side with the car on the ground. It's the same with any rails since the putty may be under where the rails/extensions mount.

 

[tj@steeda]

We appreciate your opinion & value your feedback but we'll let our 30+ years of designing, engineering, manufacturing & working with some of the top companies ... including Ford Motor Company, provide our credibility when it comes to the parts we manufacture.

Our customers have been very happy with the results & we wish you the best in your decision too!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[BMR Tech]

I don't know about you guys, but I'm putting those CJR002s to work tonight. ;)

I love what I do. (And our parts)

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I don't know about you guys, but I'm putting those CJR002s to work tonight. ;)

I love what I do. (And our parts)

Where can I get one of those super heavy duty strut tower braces and hood prop rod?

 

[tj@steeda]

Steeda Jacking Rails - Currently on sale during Steeda's Labor Day Sale:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-ultra-lite-chassis-jacking-rails-15-16-all-555-5205.html

$118 with free shipping!

TJ

 

[wildcatgoal]

Haha... all this talk about the low profile jacking rails and I'm still dancing around with my original Steeda rails which, when I daily drove my Mustang and was about .5" lower on different springs, were bottomed out DAILY going into the garage I park my car.

Just some scrapes on them and I appreciate they angle off at the end so I can slide my jack in and I don't scrape ALL THE WAY to end end of the pinch weld (end of a longer jacking rail) if I bottom out at my garage. Not to mention, the Steeda IRS brace I have has a jacking point on it too, which I use all the time if I want to jack the rear of the car up from the rear most part of the pinch weld area. Of course, you can jack the front of the jacking rail up and the rear of the car will come up too, even without a lick of added bracing to the car. Car is pretty stiff...

I now have a temp sensor where the transmission drain bolt was which obviously pokes down a wee bit compared to the flat drain bolt. In testing at my parking garage, the jacking rails save me from even getting remotely close to chopping that off (or hitting my mid-mounted muffler which is at about the same plane as the sensor, but behind the transmission).

Unless you want to fiddle with a rubber puck like a complete doofus, jacking rails are a must. With my jack, I made a line on it and I just role the bugger under the car, line up to the line, and start jacking... don't even bother looking to see if I lined up the jack pad. I see people at track days on their knees looking under the car to see if they lined up to the pinch weld or frame... pff... these eliminate that BS.

 

[wildcatgoal]

IMO, the story about designing in a gap for that reason is marketing Hype. Kind of like the higher strength bolts they tout that don't do anything but keep the rail from falling off.

To cut manufacturing costs they weld extensions with the bolt holes to the boxed portion. The boxed portion doesn't touch the car because of the way the extensions are welded on. No way to avoid the gap with extensions unless you butt welded them to the boxed section and ground down the bead.
It's up to the buyer. I scraped it off to make sure the rails are perfectly flush with the body. It think it took about 2-3 minutes per side with the car on the ground. It's the same with any rails since the putty may be under where the rails/extensions mount.

Considering how much I absolutely have abused the living christ out of my Steeda jacking rails, hitting them at the front hard on this one friggin' f'er of a speed bump I have to go over sometimes (learned the hard way to take that bugger at an angle), sliding over the crest into my parking garage, whatever... I'll sign up for stronger bolts all day friggin' long.

I didn't remove the seam seal on my car. Saw it, figured it was there for a reason, left it, haven't had a single issue and the jacking rail doesn't budge.

 

[tj@steeda]

Plus ... they are very easy to use!

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]raex_jcaIJs[/MEDIA]"]

 

[BMR Tech]

CJR002s providing structural support for my wife's explorer and my garage door while another set of CJR002s kept ole Blu elevated in case flooding during Hurricane Irma. :doh:

 

[JustinReed]

A lot of good info in this thread, I have the Steeda JR, but have scraped speed bumps many times (passenger side only), because I have a 1.5" drop, may have to go with BMR low profiles if they are compatible with the Steeda IRS subframe braces, not sure if I read in this thread that they were.

 

[SteedaTech]

A lot of good info in this thread, I have the Steeda JR, but have scraped speed bumps many times (passenger side only), because I have a 1.5" drop, may have to go with BMR low profiles if they are compatible with the Steeda IRS subframe braces, not sure if I read in this thread that they were.

Hi Justin, the the BMR frame rail connectors are not compatible with the Steeda IRS subframe braces. PM your contact info and I will hook you up with our ultra low profile jacking rails if needed.

Thank you,
Mike D

 

[wildcatgoal]

And again, I jack my car up on the Steeda IRS brace all the time - there's a little mini jacking rail on it that extends past the punch weld. Well, actually I put a jack stand there not so much jack the car up, but you know what I mean folks.

Also, I just had some Maxwell House coffee... that is the worst coffee on the planet. Imagine a dingy truck stop in the middle of an Arizona desert at 3AM. The last cup of coffee in the coffee carafe that's been sitting there for a couple hours... that's Maxwell House. Be warned.

 

[tj@steeda]

Chris Parisi, multi-time champion & 2016 NMRA Driver of the Year has been very happy with them!

We wanted to wish Chris, best of luck at Bowling Green this weekend!

 

[tj@steeda]

Wanted to share a great video by #Gadgetsngear demonstrating:

[ame="[MEDIA=youtube]NvAT72NAuQM[/MEDIA]"]

Keep an eye out for some great savings during our Black Friday Sale - happy to help if you are looking to order ASAP!

TJ

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