BMR Suspension's NEW Rear Camber Lockout Kit: WAK761

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by BMR Tech, Dec 4, 2018.

  1. BMR Tech

    BMR Tech Well-Known Member
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    BMR-WAK761 Rear Camber Lockout Kit

    BMR is now shipping our S550 Rear Camber Lockout kit! This WAK761 kit is designed with two locations to lock the inboard mount of your camber links in place. We provide an INBOARD position for those who are utilizing the most camber you can get, and an OUTBOARD position that is most commonly used by straight-line enthusiasts, or those who simply want more contact patch to the surface during WOT. We have found that maximizing contact patch allows for better traction and less wheel-hop.

    Additionally, BMR goes above and beyond and provides you with new Grade 12.9 Bolts and Class 12 nuts for a MUCH higher 105ftlb torque specification. This ensure the system is LOCKED SOLID as it provides much more clamp in comparison to the OE factory torque spec of 85ftlbs.

    The WAK761 kit is recommended for stock, aftermarket fixed and aftermarket adjustable camber links. Check out our new innovative UCA762 Adjustable Camber links as a great addition to these :)

    BMR has experienced camber slip on several of our project vehicles, so we developed this system to eliminate that slip and provide you with a more consistent alignment during high loads in cornering or launching at the drag-strip.

    *All hardware provided for installation. ADDITIONAL HARDWARE provided for 1000+hp drag strip or competition Road Course applications.

    These kits have been tested on the street, road course and drag-strip with GREAT success!

    Price: $59.95
    - Shipping NOW!

    WAK761H_1024.jpg WAK761R_1024.jpg
     
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  2. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Cool Kelly. Would these be beneficial to maintain the camber angle during cornering - for those of us on lowered ride height with the stock camber arms?
     
  3. OP
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    BMR Tech

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    Hey sir. These would be beneficial in that scenario, IF you are having issues with the camber losing adjustment.

    We also see people having issues with slight movement on the stock links which causes a creaking. I think the stock hardware should have been larger to provide more clamp. When that stock style camber link sleeve sees any compromise in clamp, it will squeak like there is no tomorrow.
     
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  4. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Kelly. And I can speak to your second point re: the creaking. It has happened to me LOL.
     
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  5. Boone

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    Kelly,
    Are adjustable camber arms required for 0 camber with this part or are they set up for 0 camber?
     
  6. OP
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    BMR Tech

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    On lowered cars, you typically need either an adjustable camber link or something like the BMR fixed links to get the camber to a true "0" at static height.

    On a stock height car, you can sometimes hit "0" - but each car is slightly different from my experience.
     
  7. Boone

    Boone Member

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    I have your drag springs
     
  8. OP
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    Your best solution will be our UCA762 Camber Arms and this kit.
     
  9. Boone

    Boone Member

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    Thanks Kelly
     
  10. Dave_6

    Dave_6 Well-Known Member

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    Just saw this thread and I'm now wondering if this is what I have been hearing from the rear of my car for the past few weeks. I lowered mine last July with the SP080s and the only other thing I've done to the suspension is the BMR cradle lockouts. Be nice if that is what is causing the creak/squeak. Any minor suspension movement causes the noise.
     
  11. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Did you clock your bushings?
     
  12. Dave_6

    Dave_6 Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately I was never able to.
     
  13. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    I'd guess that's why you're hearing this. The bushings are significantly bound up after lowering.
     
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  14. mejohn50

    mejohn50 Intergalactic Snail

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    I’m going to be using the BMR SP763s with stock camber arms. Would these be beneficial in getting the camber back in line after spring install? If so, which hole: inboard or outboard?
     
  15. Tractor Junk

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    I installed these after dropping my cradle for a full suspension replacement in preparation for running TT2 this year. They are manufactured to tighter standards than the cradle, and required a bit of massaging of the stock camber brackets. No big deal, but be aware.

    I’m using them with the BMR adjustable camber arms. Haven’t driven the combo yet, but it’s quality stuff.
     
  16. TwinReverb

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    Somewhat Similar, but oppostie situation here. The lockouts ended up being a bit larger than the cradle itself. Took a bit to get just right and not cause any binding.
    The bmr adjustable camber arms however are a piece of art.
     
  17. OP
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    BMR Tech

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    Thanks guys.

    I have seen the exact same here on my own cars. The same set fit two of my cars differently. Once torqued down to 105, it's all good though. Unless of course it is WAY off (WAK much larger than cradle mount)

    Those asking about this kit - there is not really too much advantage to using this kit on an average streetcar with stock camber links. It does not provide more adjustment.

    The #1 reason I came up with this was for aftermarket camber links and people who really put the camber links to the test. The aftermarket camber links tend to slip more often than a stock link.
     
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  18. Slow6

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    Hey Kelly. Due to the adjustable camber arms and the wheel/tire setup I have going on, I need to keep my rear camber links maxed out. I have them set to the inner most part of the slotted mount. Does the lock out still allow me to keep that setting?
     
  19. OP
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    BMR Tech

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    It has a full inboard and a full outboard position, yes
     
  20. Slow6

    Slow6 Member

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    Was dropping the cradle necessary for the install? I remember when adding adjustable camber arms that it was a tight squeeze but I didnt pay much attention to the area where the lockout would be placed.
     
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