BMR Suspension's NEW Rear Camber Lockout Kit: WAK761

[TwinReverb]

I installed these after dropping my cradle for a full suspension replacement in preparation for running TT2 this year. They are manufactured to tighter standards than the cradle, and required a bit of massaging of the stock camber brackets. No big deal, but be aware.

I’m using them with the BMR adjustable camber arms. Haven’t driven the combo yet, but it’s quality stuff.

Somewhat Similar, but oppostie situation here. The lockouts ended up being a bit larger than the cradle itself. Took a bit to get just right and not cause any binding.
The bmr adjustable camber arms however are a piece of art.

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[BMR Tech]

Thanks guys.

I have seen the exact same here on my own cars. The same set fit two of my cars differently. Once torqued down to 105, it's all good though. Unless of course it is WAY off (WAK much larger than cradle mount)

Those asking about this kit - there is not really too much advantage to using this kit on an average streetcar with stock camber links. It does not provide more adjustment.

The #1 reason I came up with this was for aftermarket camber links and people who really put the camber links to the test. The aftermarket camber links tend to slip more often than a stock link.

 

[Slow6]

Hey Kelly. Due to the adjustable camber arms and the wheel/tire setup I have going on, I need to keep my rear camber links maxed out. I have them set to the inner most part of the slotted mount. Does the lock out still allow me to keep that setting?

 

[BMR Tech]

It has a full inboard and a full outboard position, yes

 

[Slow6]

I installed these after dropping my cradle for a full suspension replacement in preparation for running TT2 this year. They are manufactured to tighter standards than the cradle, and required a bit of massaging of the stock camber brackets. No big deal, but be aware.

I’m using them with the BMR adjustable camber arms. Haven’t driven the combo yet, but it’s quality stuff.

Was dropping the cradle necessary for the install? I remember when adding adjustable camber arms that it was a tight squeeze but I didnt pay much attention to the area where the lockout would be placed.

 

[Tractor Junk]

Dropping the cradle is necessary if you want to use all 4 mounting bolts, which requires drilling 2 holes on the top of the camber brackets. Using all 4 mounting bolts is optional, per the instructions. My guess is the cradle must be dropped at least some, even if using only one bolt per side to mount the brackets.

 

[Pauliejr]

OP,

I discovered my cars actually running too much negative camber right now after lowering and alignment.

Will installing these in the “more positive camber” positive give me more positive camber ? Or is that setting basically keeping you null, and the “more negative camber” slot added negative.

I’m currently at -3.0 I would like to get more positive camber.

 

[BmacIL]

OP,

I discovered my cars actually running too much negative camber right now after lowering and alignment.

Will installing these in the “more positive camber” positive give me more positive camber ? Or is that setting basically keeping you null, and the “more negative camber” slot added negative.

I’m currently at -3.0 I would like to get more positive camber.

Whoa that's a ton. Installing these and putting the camber arm in the outer position would give you significantly less negative camber, but with a stock camber arm, would no longer be adjustable. Given the amount you have, you must be lowered A LOT, and using this with the outer hole will probably put you right around -1.0 or so, which is just right for most street use.

 

[Pauliejr]

Whoa that's a ton. Installing these and putting the camber arm in the outer position would give you significantly less negative camber, but with a stock camber arm, would no longer be adjustable. Given the amount you have, you must be lowered A LOT, and using this with the outer hole will probably put you right around -1.0 or so, which is just right for most street use.

I’m running BMR SP083 Springs With Koni Yellows all around. As well as other various components, shock mounts,bushings, caster camber plates, ex...

The rear end it’s actually sitting perfectly even at -3.0 on both sides. My main question is if the Positive camber position will actually give me positive camber.

If this will put me at -1.5 / -1 I’m cool with that.

I was under the assumption the “positive setting” kept it no change opposed to the negative setting.

I prefer to go BMR and not other brands. And I’m fine with no longer being able to adjust it. If I hit the right number no reason to change it.

 

[BMR Tech]

This kit will not give you adjustment outside of the factory range. It locks the factory slot in two positions.

1: Full inboard (as negative as the factory slot allows)
2: Full outboard (as positive as the factory slot allows)

The purpose of these is to ensure the camber link inboard mount does not lose clamp and slip.

With our SP083, -3 is definitely 100% not as far positive as you can go.

You should be able to easily, very easily get into the -1.X range.

 

[BmacIL]

@ChitownStang FYI ^^^^^ on rear camber adjustment...show this to someone if need-be.

 

[Pauliejr]

Thanks for the information. So my main question is if I install this in the full outboard location I should gain the positive camber I need correct. I do also want the function of locking it in place without having the ability to move as I have the rest of the suspension locked up with BMR gear.

3rd shop in 2. Months that “can’t adjust the rear”

I’m thinking this is a solution that will allow me to “align it myself”

I will still have it checks afterwards on a rack

This kit will not give you adjustment outside of the factory range. It locks the factory slot in two positions.

1: Full inboard (as negative as the factory slot allows)
2: Full outboard (as positive as the factory slot allows)

The purpose of these is to ensure the camber link inboard mount does not lose clamp and slip.

With our SP083, -3 is definitely 100% not as far positive as you can go.

You should be able to easily, very easily get into the -1.X range.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks for the information. So my main question is if I install this in the full outboard location I should gain the positive camber I need correct. I do also want the function of locking it in place without having the ability to move as I have the rest of the suspension locked up with BMR gear.

3rd shop in 2. Months that “can’t adjust the rear”

I’m thinking this is a solution that will allow me to “align it myself”

I will still have it checks afterwards on a rack

Yes, it will. You will possibly want an adjustable arm such as the UCA762 in the future to dial it in. Alignment is a very underrated portion of vehicle performance.

 

[BMR Tech]

Hi, as I stated above, the kit should install full outboard if you want to take out some negative camber. Doing so would likely get you into the -1.X range.

I cannot tell you exactly what your camber would be. Before spending money on parts, take the car to a competent alignment shop and have it adjusted and that should answer your questions sir.

Thanks

 

[Pauliejr]

I agree, this alignment issue has been an ongoing thing. No time to get it done and no good shops here except the one I went to last weekend apparently. And they have a long scheduled wait for weekends.

I do was some slight negative camber so I think this will fix me up right. However -3.0 is was too much and will kill the tires. I just installed brand new wheels and tires this week. I will be satisfied anywhere in the -1.x range

Hi, as I stated above, the kit should install full outboard if you want to take out some negative camber. Doing so would likely get you into the -1.X range.

I cannot tell you exactly what your camber would be. Before spending money on parts, take the car to a competent alignment shop and have it adjusted and that should answer your questions sir.

Thanks

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