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BMR or Steeda front subframe brace? 2 pt vs 4 pt

BlueThunder16

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I've searched and read all I could, but I still can't seem to find the specific information I'm looking for. I want to install one of these braces on my '16 GT PP. I decided against the Steeda 4 point G trac because it sacrifices ground clearance and may have fitment issues from the reviews I've read. As for the BMR 4 point, CB006, there's no loss of ground clearance and the fitment reviews were better, but does anyone know if I'd need an alignment afterwards since it ties into the control arm which must be loosened during installation?

And, then there's my question of whether or not I'd even need the 4 point since I don't track my car. If it's unnecessary, and a 2 point would be suffice, then which is the better 2 point? Both the BMR CB007 and Steeda Ultra lite 2 point G trac look the same, except the Steeda may be lighter at only 5lbs. And if it is lighter, I'd opt for that as long as performance is the same. I'm also wondering how heavy the BMR 4 point is as well of anyone knows.

Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Scooter MGee

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I went with the PP brace. All OEM, looks stock and works great for street use..
 
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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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I'm not sure what you mean by PP brace. My car is a performance package and already has the factory bracing that comes with that package. Unless you're referring to something else and I'm misunderstanding you. Thx.
 

Scooter MGee

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Nope, that's what I'm referring to. Honestly, you don't need anything aftermarket.
 
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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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Thanks. I personally feel the front and rear need to be tightened up slightly more, despite having the performance package. I already have the Steeda IRS subframe braces which I haven't gotten around to installing yet, but will. I've read nothing but good reviews on them from PP owners who seemed to feel it was an improvement, and similar reviews for the front braces I mentioned above.

So for consistency, I intend to do the same to the front subframe. From everything I've read it should plant the car to the road a little more through corners, and I think it may tighten up the steering feel just a hair too. While I do think it handles well and is a blast to drive so far, I still feel it's lacking a little bit in the cornering department.

I was just wondering if there's anyone with first hand experience with the braces I asked about who could point me in the right direction. Thanks again.
 

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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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Thanks. If I go 4 point I'm going BMR only because it doesn't give up ground clearance. I'm already lowered 1". Don't feel comfortable with the lower Steeda brace under there. I believe they'd both give the same performance.

If I go 2 point though, then I guess it depends more on which one is lighter and a better fit for ease of installation. Again, I think they'd both perform similarly.
 

tj@steeda

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I have the G-trac brace on my convertible - lowered on the minimum drop springs & no issues. Understand that it's not 1" but Many customers run this on their car with a 1" drop & don't have any issues.

You can check out the further review here - https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-...JZfZmmCMZvwSdcmeVcmbEUbuAzl8z6nRoCHWgQAvD_BwE

Let me know if I can help with forum pricing (5% off) if you are going the Steeda route.

Happy to help.

TJ
 

Jaymar

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Install your rear subframe brace and bushing limiters first and see how you feel then. It doesn't have to have a product front and rear to match or be consistent, it's about fixing actual problems you can quantify. I personally don't run either style front brace as I find the factory PP K and strut tower bracing sufficient for street use.
 
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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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Thanks I appreciate the discount! I'm just concerned about that one time I bottom out on a rough road or steep driveway. It'll happen eventually. I just don't want to have to worry about that. So if I go Steeda, it would only be for the 2 point. If I decide on 4 point, then BMR for clearance. Although, with the BMR I'd have to disconnect the lower control arm during installation. So would I need a wheel alignment afterwards then?

Maybe I'm overthinking this too since I'm not tracking the car. I mean, is there even going to be a noticeable difference between a 4 pt and 2 pt on a PP GT during aggressive street driving?
 

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thompsje

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Personally, I don't think a 2-point brace is gonna make all that much difference if you already have the PP bracing.

I have a non-PP and the Steeda brace right now. The low points in the front are almost exactly in line with the contact patch of the front tires. So I wouldn't be worried about the steep driveway as much a bottoming out the front suspension. You'd have to put one side of the car into a pretty deep hole or be on a really rough road... but that all depends on where in NY you live.

I live in MA, so I have some of the same concerns. Even though I've been running the Steeda brace for a year with no issues, I'm gonna swap to the BMR brace in a couple weeks because I'm also installing the PP front control arms. If have to pull all of that apart, I might as well. I'm basically refreshing the entire suspension, so an alignment for me is gonna be required anyway. It's probably a good idea any time you R&R suspension components.

Finally, since it's just sitting in the garage I weighed the BMR brace this morning. Comes in at 10.5 lbs on the bathroom scale. From memory, that's heavier than the Steeda unit and actually kinda chunky. I'll have to diet to compensate. :)
 
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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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Thanks. Very helpful. I'm starting to lean towards the BMR 4 point, even if I will need an alignment. In fact, if I end up having to tweak the rear subframe bolts to fit the Steeda IRS braces, I'd need another alignment afterwards anyway. I guess a few more pounds of weight really won't make a difference also. I'm not worried about track times lol.

...Unless a us d 2 point pops up for a steal lol
 

baevid

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I swapped out my Steeda 4-point recently to a 2-point just because of those occasional scrapes in the front. I'd go with the BMR too if you're leaning towards that just for peace of mind.
 

PVAMT

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Haven't had any issues with my 4 point scraping but I have the factory pp suspension.
 
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BlueThunder16

BlueThunder16

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I swapped out my Steeda 4-point recently to a 2-point just because of those occasional scrapes in the front. I'd go with the BMR too if you're leaning towards that just for peace of mind.
Any noticeable difference between the 4 and the 2 after you switched?
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