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- Oct 23, 2014
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- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Mustang(s)
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- #1
Fellow boost junkies...
I have been getting a lot of PM's asking about "which kit is best for me" and "what headunit do I need" so let me take all the guess work out of it for ya, and hopefully save you all some $$$$.
I wanna run 9's and have a stock motor whats the best kit?
Good news, you can do that with the entry-level HO kit, on the entry-level blower.
You know the one that runs the 6 rib drive belt, and has been going 9's for over 8 years!
- Long before the P1X
- Before the Stage 2 (dedicated drive) existed
- Before intake swaps, were even a thing
Receipt for success is simple... HO tuner kit + E85 + your favorite tuner = FLYING!
Now don't get me wrong, we have plenty of other options to get you anywhere from 600-2,200+ HP for a Coyote,... from STG2 kits, to Crank supports, to even CrankDrives for those going with solid billet blocks for all out 6 second race car stuff. However, for 90% of the street car customers out there, the "OG" HO kit will do just fine.
Now onto the next question I get...
What head-unit is best for me? (Eriks Cliff note Version)
550 whp - to 750 whp --- The entry level P1SC1 is perfect
600 whp - to 950 whp --- Thats where the P1X is perfect
800 whp - to 1050 whp --- This is the range to consider D1X
900 whp - to 1350 whp --- Average range for F1A94
Now, as you can see the entry level P1SC1 is perfect for 95% of the stock motor cars out there that wanna run pump gas, and maybe do a flex fuel tune.
The P1X has the biggest range, and yes will 100% have the ability to stress test your factory short block with ease. Yes, there is a 1,400hp P-1X Gen2 Coyote out there, proving that a LOT is possible depending on the engine and the set up.
Only time I would consider a D1X is if the car is basically on kill with E85 all the time AND has a high stall TQ converter. Reason why I say this, is If a D1X is turned down to run on pump gas, it would have a "soft" midrange, compared to a P1X or P1SC1, due to the impeller not being spun fast enough to get into its "sweet spot".
The F1A94 is when you are ready to go 8's or 7's while making 1100,1200,1300+ the easiest way possible. But you better have a built motor, cause with a good tune you are ready to set some records.
If you are stock motor and pump 91-93 gas (10 to high 9 second car)
HO Kit with P1SC1 or P1X will be perfect
If you are stock motor and Pump/E85 (average mid to low 9 second car)
HO Kit with P1SC1 or P1X will do it, some might choose D1SC
If you are stock now, but someday wanna do 1000+ whp (Average 8 second car)
This is when most do STG2, to have the dedicated belt.
If you are wanting to build a full tilt race toy (Mid 8 second to high 7 second car)
This would be STG2, usually F1A94, and usually add CrankSupport.
If anyone has any more questions, please don't hesitate to CALL US. I know sometimes it feels weird, but we have a massive phone staff of hot rodders like you ready to answer any questions you might have.
Thanks for reading!
NOTE: If I don't respond to a PM within 24hrs, please just call...cause its the fastest.
I have been getting a lot of PM's asking about "which kit is best for me" and "what headunit do I need" so let me take all the guess work out of it for ya, and hopefully save you all some $$$$.
I wanna run 9's and have a stock motor whats the best kit?
Good news, you can do that with the entry-level HO kit, on the entry-level blower.
You know the one that runs the 6 rib drive belt, and has been going 9's for over 8 years!
- Long before the P1X
- Before the Stage 2 (dedicated drive) existed
- Before intake swaps, were even a thing
Receipt for success is simple... HO tuner kit + E85 + your favorite tuner = FLYING!
Now don't get me wrong, we have plenty of other options to get you anywhere from 600-2,200+ HP for a Coyote,... from STG2 kits, to Crank supports, to even CrankDrives for those going with solid billet blocks for all out 6 second race car stuff. However, for 90% of the street car customers out there, the "OG" HO kit will do just fine.
Now onto the next question I get...
What head-unit is best for me? (Eriks Cliff note Version)
550 whp - to 750 whp --- The entry level P1SC1 is perfect
600 whp - to 950 whp --- Thats where the P1X is perfect
800 whp - to 1050 whp --- This is the range to consider D1X
900 whp - to 1350 whp --- Average range for F1A94
Now, as you can see the entry level P1SC1 is perfect for 95% of the stock motor cars out there that wanna run pump gas, and maybe do a flex fuel tune.
The P1X has the biggest range, and yes will 100% have the ability to stress test your factory short block with ease. Yes, there is a 1,400hp P-1X Gen2 Coyote out there, proving that a LOT is possible depending on the engine and the set up.
Only time I would consider a D1X is if the car is basically on kill with E85 all the time AND has a high stall TQ converter. Reason why I say this, is If a D1X is turned down to run on pump gas, it would have a "soft" midrange, compared to a P1X or P1SC1, due to the impeller not being spun fast enough to get into its "sweet spot".
The F1A94 is when you are ready to go 8's or 7's while making 1100,1200,1300+ the easiest way possible. But you better have a built motor, cause with a good tune you are ready to set some records.
If you are stock motor and pump 91-93 gas (10 to high 9 second car)
HO Kit with P1SC1 or P1X will be perfect
If you are stock motor and Pump/E85 (average mid to low 9 second car)
HO Kit with P1SC1 or P1X will do it, some might choose D1SC
If you are stock now, but someday wanna do 1000+ whp (Average 8 second car)
This is when most do STG2, to have the dedicated belt.
If you are wanting to build a full tilt race toy (Mid 8 second to high 7 second car)
This would be STG2, usually F1A94, and usually add CrankSupport.
If anyone has any more questions, please don't hesitate to CALL US. I know sometimes it feels weird, but we have a massive phone staff of hot rodders like you ready to answer any questions you might have.
Thanks for reading!
NOTE: If I don't respond to a PM within 24hrs, please just call...cause its the fastest.
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