battery box

[JCN]

has anyone had the battery box out of an 18 up, looking to run a wire from battery to trunk for am upcoming sub woofer. There is a rubber grommet on fire wall just in front of inside fuse panel that would be perfect route but it's behind or just below battery and I can't even see it let alone get a hand in there. If the battery box comes out fairly easy it would be handy to use rather than run across to driver side. Thanks Jim

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[MegaG]

I'm sure its not the only video out there...

 

[MegaG]

 

[JCN]

I'm sure its not the only video out there...

Thanks MegaG, it never occurred to me to hit youtube should've known. I did about 40 years for Norfolk Southern and a lot of that was electronic wiring, you do nice work-very clean set up. Jim

 

[MegaG]

Thanks MegaG, it never occurred to me to hit youtube should've known. I did about 40 years for Norfolk Southern and a lot of that was electronic wiring, you do nice work-very clean set up. Jim

Lol, that's not me in the video, in fact, based on your Norfolk comment we are far closer in age to each other then you and the gentlemen in the video are. Glad I could help!

 

[JCN]

whoops, oh well thanks anyway confirmed what I was thinking of trying! Jim

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Can I ask what the reason for running cables from the battery all the way back to the trunk is?

I have not investigated yet myself, but I hoped at least some of the wires under the trunk lining would be connected to a suitably switched (ignition-on, or accessory) 12v cables. Is that not so?

I planned to hook into a suitable pair so I could add a socket for a 12v mini-refrigerator back in the trunk some day I had the time.

 

[JCN]

Can I ask what the reason for running cables from the battery all the way back to the trunk is?

I have not investigated yet myself, but I hoped at least some of the wires under the trunk lining would be connected to a suitably switched (ignition-on, or accessory) 12v cables. Is that not so?

I planned to hook into a suitable pair so I could add a socket for a 12v mini-refrigerator back in the trunk some day I had the time.

I,m putting a small powered sub in trunk. calls for 25amps, am going to run 40 amp supply back this leaves a little for later who knows what. I don't know if you'll find enough all ready there to run a mini fridge but it's worth a try. I'm going to run #8 directly from battery to a bus then #10 to sub.

 

[MegaG]

Can I ask what the reason for running cables from the battery all the way back to the trunk is?

I have not investigated yet myself, but I hoped at least some of the wires under the trunk lining would be connected to a suitably switched (ignition-on, or accessory) 12v cables. Is that not so?

I planned to hook into a suitable pair so I could add a socket for a 12v mini-refrigerator back in the trunk some day I had the time.

I don't know how much current your mini-fridge needs but I would be surprised if the trunk had a large enough wire with excess capacity to run one but to be honest I have never looked at these. Its why most after market car audio installs need dedicated power runs.

There are tables available that specifiy how much current a wire can carry by gauge.

Here's the table for one particular car audio wiring supplier but there are many more out there for more wire sizes then just these common car audio size.

 

[MegaG]

I,m putting a small powered sub in trunk. calls for 25amps, am going to run 40 amp supply back this leaves a little for later who knows what. I don't know if you'll find enough all ready there to run a mini fridge but it's worth a try. I'm going to run #8 directly from battery to a bus then #10 to sub.

With the effort it takes to make a power wire pull, its normally not too much more total $ versus the time & effort spent to just run 4 gauge versus 8 gauge or are you real sure that's all you'll ever do back there?

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

I don't know how much current your mini-fridge needs but I would be surprised if the trunk had a large enough wire with excess capacity to run one but to be honest I have never looked at these. Its why most after market car audio installs need dedicated power runs.

There are tables available that specifiy how much current a wire can carry by gauge.

Here's the table for one particular car audio wiring supplier but there are many more out there for more wire sizes then just these common car audio size.

Well, I might be to optimistic about this, but I hope not. I'll keep this thread in mind when I start looking at it before the summer. Thanks.

I also have a service manual for the 2016 Mustang someone made available for free via a link here. I'm thinking it will have the details, and hopefully they will be similar enough in my 2020 car, though I'll have to verify it of course.

 

[JCN]

With the effort it takes to make a power wire pull, its normally not too much more total $ versus the time & effort spent to just run 4 gauge versus 8 gauge or are you real sure that's all you'll ever do back there?

ya fairly, the sub pulls 13.5 on a 25 amp fuse. The only other thing I could imagine might be a fuel pump upgrade. The Roush bug is chewing on me pretty hard!

 

[m3incorp]

It took me about 30 minutes to run a 4 gauge cable from the battery to the rear. I did not remove the battery box.

 

[CricketSP]

It took me about 30 minutes to run a 4 gauge cable from the battery to the rear. I did not remove the battery box.

If you wire it directly to the battery, won't it always be powered on ?

 

[m3incorp]

All amplifiers should be wired to the battery. You then run the "remote" turn on wire (blue) to a power source that shuts off when the ignition is not in the run or accessory position.

If you wire it directly to the battery, won't it always be powered on ?

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