Basic ceramic coating questions

[Bobn57]

Wait, what? You just earned a temporary ban from this sub forum.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...etergent-as-a-strip-wash.185021/#post-3724623

Ira and DFB5.0... I solemnly promise to only use DAWN for dishes from this day forward...so help me God! disclaimer....no top coats, clear coats or animals were damaged by using DAWN

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[Phoneman1223]

Some shops use UV lamps to cure certain ceramic coatings. Coatings can last last 7-9 years but it’s all subjective based on environmental elements and how coating is taking care of. Proper washing techniques and a yearly decontamination of coated vehicle will lead to best results. Education is key to making a very costly decision when it comes to a shop correcting paint and applying a coating.

 

[Bikeman315]

Education is key to making a very costly decision when it comes to a shop correcting paint and applying a coating.

Excellent point. I always say, "you buy the detailer not the product". Find the right person and go by their recommendations.

 

[Meatball]

Excellent point. I always say, "you buy the detailer not the product". Find the right person and go by their recommendations.

Thanks. Yep I’m hoping this Ceramic Pro place is legit. Seems good and DFB5.0 seems to think they’re fine. I’m hoping that the fact that their shop is filled with much higher end cars than Mustangs is a good sign…

 

[MAGS1]

Thanks. Yep I’m hoping this Ceramic Pro place is legit. Seems good and DFB5.0 seems to think they’re fine. I’m hoping that the fact that their shop is filled with much higher end cars than Mustangs is a good sign…

You should be good. Ceramic Pro requires their installers to go through their certification process before they can buy and use the product (which a lot of the major players in the professional coating world require so they’re not unique in that regard). If they don’t do enough business or get a bunch of negative reviews, these coating companies won’t hesitate to pull their product and certification. As mentioned by others, you’re buying the installer more than you are the product.

 

[Lorne34]

The most important part is prep/paint correction and a clean environment.
If you have someone else do it get references and ask lots of questions.
For most coatings they have to be certified.

 

[Garfy]

Bobn, did you do some cutting to flatten the orange peel? I did not. I wasn't game for getting a meter to measure clear coat thickness and cut it down. Yours looks pretty darned flat. I just fixed the scratches and used the Reflect fine polish.

I have a paint thickness meter but was told there is no way to determine the thickness of the clearcoat alone. The meters read the thickness of the paint that's on top of the metal (whether it's the steel part or aluminum part; the meter must be set to the correct base metal). I think if I remember correctly, my paint was around 6 to 7 mils in thickness. Again, I have no idea how thick the clearcoat is.

 

[ajsfirehawk]

I have a paint thickness meter but was told there is no way to determine the thickness of the clear coat alone. The meters read the thickness of the paint that's on top of the metal (whether it's the steel part or aluminum part; the meter must be set to the correct base metal). I think if I remember correctly, my paint was around 6 to 7 mils in thickness. Again, I have no idea how thick the clear coat is.

It takes huge balls of steel to legitimately cut paint and clear coat unless you have experience. I'd never forgive myself if I hosed up the factory paint. I've done it on motorcycle tanks, but I sprayed the clear coat so I know exactly how much is on there. Those were wet sanded first. It still freaked me out. Go through it once and it's a total do over with metallics.

 

[MAGS1]

I have a paint thickness meter but was told there is no way to determine the thickness of the clearcoat alone. The meters read the thickness of the paint that's on top of the metal (whether it's the steel part or aluminum part; the meter must be set to the correct base metal). I think if I remember correctly, my paint was around 6 to 7 mils in thickness. Again, I have no idea how thick the clearcoat is.

I think it somewhat varies by manufacturer, the higher end cars and exotics probably have a little thicker paint and clearcoat as it’s part of the higher cost. I’m guessing that our cars are probably only a few mils of clear.

 

[kilobravo]

I second the emotions mentioned. If you use a polisher and compound of any kind AND don't use a paint thickness meter, you are teasing the animals so to speak and this is especially true for old fashioned orbital polishers. The newer dual action models are considerably safer to use BUT, they can still burn through to the color coat or deeper in the wrong hands.

As for the thickness of the clear, the meters typically use microns vice thousandths and the average clear coat is about 50 microns or at least that is what I have seen (I divide the meter number by 2 assuming color and clear coats are similar in thickness.) Knock off ten or so with a polisher and you still have a fair amount of clear for future polishing.

I map out a vehicle's thickness in multiple locations before I start in case there's an area that is super thin (or thick.) A grease pencil works well for this. With robot painters and dippers, this isn't as important as it once was but I've seen thickness vary by as much as 30 microns from one location to another.

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