Base GT Manual Limp mode on track

[wazatataza]

Took my car to a HPD event. Specifically HOD over at PBIR in Jupiter, FL on Saturday the 29th of feb. Day was clear and the temps were in the mid 60s. Car is a 2016 base GT with FBO, 93 PBD tune and lots of handling goodies.

The first 20 minute session went well. An hour later did a second and I pushed the car a little harder learning the track and how my set up is handling and 15 min in, during a downshift I get a wrench icon, no power and I had to pull into the grass. Limp mode? Although the car ran pretty rough. Stuttered and sputtered a bit. Turned it off. Waited like 30 seconds and she was back. No CEL or anything.

In the continuing sessions I was able to keep off limp mode if I shifted at 7k instead of 8k. But with any aggressive pass or down shift I got sent back into limp mode. And it was always with a shift. After some research it seems to be a transmission overheating issue. I couldn’t read and temps on my gauges but engine temps were fine as were pressures. All “normal”. Never had this problem with auto X events.

Has anyone tried the Ford performance GT manual transmission air scoop? Any aftermarket trannny coolers? Experiences and experiments? Please let me know. I’m going to Sebring in May and that track will defiantly be a lot harder on the car.

Thanks,
Carlos.

Sponsored

 

[IPOGT]

Sorry no one answered you yet Carl.
I was watching to see if anyone replied. I have a 2016 auto GT which I want to try at PBIR. Haven't yet, so I was interested to hear about it.

 

[Mr981]

Took my car to a HPD event. Specifically HOD over at PBIR in Jupiter, FL on Saturday the 29th of feb. Day was clear and the temps were in the mid 60s. Car is a 2016 base GT with FBO, 93 PBD tune and lots of handling goodies.

The first 20 minute session went well. An hour later did a second and I pushed the car a little harder learning the track and how my set up is handling and 15 min in, during a downshift I get a wrench icon, no power and I had to pull into the grass. Limp mode? Although the car ran pretty rough. Stuttered and sputtered a bit. Turned it off. Waited like 30 seconds and she was back. No CEL or anything.

In the continuing sessions I was able to keep off limp mode if I shifted at 7k instead of 8k. But with any aggressive pass or down shift I got sent back into limp mode. And it was always with a shift. After some research it seems to be a transmission overheating issue. I couldn’t read and temps on my gauges but engine temps were fine as were pressures. All “normal”. Never had this problem with auto X events.

Has anyone tried the Ford performance GT manual transmission air scoop? Any aftermarket trannny coolers? Experiences and experiments? Please let me know. I’m going to Sebring in May and that track will defiantly be a lot harder on the car.

Thanks,
Carlos.

I have only driven a GT at the FR track in UT, but have a couple of thoughts:
Get an OBD reader and a simple program to go with it to track whatever temps you can get out of the electronics. IIRC, the base engine has a small oil cooler; there may be better options in the aftermarket . Temps wraps around the tranny and differential should likewise help.

Early shifting should likewise reduce temps; did your tune raise the redline? I thought the redline was 7K on this motor.

 

[wazatataza]

sorry for the delayed response. very very very busy at work this past week.

So, my car is a base GT with a 93 tune from PBD. Its got GT350 CAI, ported 18 mani, GT350 TB, Long tubes, and injectors. PBD made the new redline 7850. with those extra revs, for extended 20+ minute sessions, it builds up and the car will send you into limp mode. ill have to take my tuner next time since the cluster will only read "normal" before it gets too hot and just cuts you off.

Since the event, on later laps I shifted early at 7k RPM. now that went well for one heat. but by the next hour, if you had to hold the gear longer for a pass, then it would set it off within 10-15 min of that second heat.

Upgrades for the next event:
Ford Performance Radiator (shared between PP mustangs and base GT350)
Ford Performance transmission air scoop

i will see how the car behaves with those two new mods if the track remains open this upcoming may.

 

[Bluelightning]

It could be trans overheating, or the rear diff.

 

[Jetnoise]

It could be trans overheating, or the rear diff.

All the above or ...simply
Your car doesn't like being pushed that hard and also being expected to get you home.
Not being harsh or trying to be ...but a track car a GT is not. Most brands and flavors aren't ...
Upside is you have more than what 250k could buy you not very long ago ....under your toe

 

[FamilymanGT]

Hope you find your issue. My 2019 GT only has minor mods (exhaust and CAI) and I've had the wrench twice now. I wasnt even running the car hard. Dealer said the code stored was aftermarket mods,,,,,Very disappointed in this performance aspect.

 

[mikeD4V]

Did the car show a wrench light or a large wrench icon that stated "see manual"? The icon one means there was a PCM problem and a diagnostic trouble code may have been stored. You can check for the stored codes with an nGauge or an OBD2 scanner. The code(s) should point you in the direction of the problem.

The base GT does not have temp sensors for the trans or diff so it should not go limp from that since it is not reading anything.

Switching from the base radiator to the PP/350 radiator lowered my peak temps by ~20*. Summer sessions with consistent 7k+ shifting would drive temps into the mid 230s with the base radiator.

 

[wazatataza]

Did the car show a wrench light or a large wrench icon that stated "see manual"? The icon one means there was a PCM problem and a diagnostic trouble code may have been stored. You can check for the stored codes with an nGauge or an OBD2 scanner. The code(s) should point you in the direction of the problem.

The base GT does not have temp sensors for the trans or diff so it should not go limp from that since it is not reading anything.

Switching from the base radiator to the PP/350 radiator lowered my peak temps by ~20*. Summer sessions with consistent 7k+ shifting would drive temps into the mid 230s with the base radiator.

that's exactly what showed that day. after turning it off and then back on it essentially went away. i only say limp mode because the car would stay on bt would run extremely rough. idle would oscillate over 1k rpm but never produce any power. thankfully nothing mechanical. once turned back on it would run smooth again. assuming it was limp mode. i wish i had my tuner with me but it was one of those things that disappeared during my move. since Im already full bolt on and really don't plan on going FI any time this year at least, I never saw the reason to but another tuner. I have an appointment with my tuning shop tomorrow, ill try and see if they could bring up any old codes for me.

 

[wazatataza]

is your car on a stock tune? my buddies stock 18 GT had that problem a few times after pushing the car, took a few trips to the dealer with no success . after talking to a service rep that actually liked mustangs and was willing to investigate the problem, it turned out being bad coils.

 

[mikeD4V]

is your car on a stock tune? my buddies stock 18 GT had that problem a few times after pushing the car, took a few trips to the dealer with no success . after talking to a service rep that actually liked mustangs and was willing to investigate the problem, it turned out being bad coils.

No, Lund flex fuel tune.

Sponsored