Auto unlock not working after getting car back

[svtcarter]

Recently got my car back from the collision shop because someone backed into my quarter panel a while back. I’m just now noticing the auto unlocked feature doesn’t work when my key is near the door. I also have two keys and neither of them seem to work. What could cause this issue? Is it something in the door or what?

( i have also left key fob under cupholder in that compartment to see if it fixed it)

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[daSNAK3]

Is it only one side or both sides? I had this issue but it was only the driver side that would not do anything, they left a connection in the door disconnected.

 

[Skye]

I suspect they left the handle/s disconnected during repairs. Or something happened inside the door during the accident that has not been fixed.

The door handle has two sensors:

- Inductive. When approaching the vehicle with a fob, once within about 3-6 ft / 1-2 m, the handle's inductive coupler will sense the fob. A Low-Frequency (LF) emitter in the handle will send a signal to the fob. The LF signal wakes the fob, and asks it to send a High Frequency (HF) reply, with a code, to the Remote Transceiver Module (RTM), located in the rear of the car

- Capacitive. When touching the inside edge of the door handle, a capacitive sensor will confirm presence. If the fob has sent the correct code to the car, the door will unlock

The door handle is plugged into the Door Control Module (DCM), which communicates with the Body Control Module (BCM). If the door handle is not attached, incorrectly attached or the modules are defective, none of these processes will work.

If both doors will not auto-unlock and you notice Tire Pressure Management System (TPMS) is not working, there could be a problem with the RTM. The RTM receives HF signals from the fob and the wheels (the wheels and fob use the same frequency). If looking at the interior, the back, the parcel shelf in the rear, the RTM is underneath that. I've tried to locate mine and could not. A few posts and the Ford docs say the RTM is in that general area.

Edit,

If the fob is working by manually pressing the button to lock/unlock, that clears the fob and the RTM. The problem is then with the doors and handles.

The port in the center console, that is involved with the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS). I'm not aware of the port being associated with Intelligent Access (fob, door, etc.). PATS deals with the engine immobilizer and starting the vehicle. The sensor in the console confirms the presence of the fob, then unlocks the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The center console port can also power and illuminate the key, confirming it's the correct one. This allows the car to be started in-case of a bad or missing fob battery.

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Check locks under vehicle settings.

 

[svtcarter]

Is it only one side or both sides? I had this issue but it was only the driver side that would not do anything, they left a connection in the door disconnected.

Ive only noticed it being the driver door, havent seen if passenger doesnt unlock yet aswell

 

[svtcarter]

I suspect they left the handle/s disconnected during repairs. Or something happened inside the door during the accident that has not been fixed.

The door handle has two sensors:

- Inductive. When approaching the vehicle with a fob, once within about 3-6 ft / 1-2 m, the handle's inductive coupler will sense the fob. A Low-Frequency (LF) emitter in the handle will send a signal to the fob. The LF signal wakes the fob, and asks it to send a High Frequency (HF) reply, with a code, to the Remote Transceiver Module (RTM), located in the rear of the car

- Capacitive. When touching the inside edge of the door handle, a capacitive sensor will confirm presence. If the fob has sent the correct code to the car, the door will unlock

The door handle is plugged into the Door Control Module (DCM), which communicates with the Body Control Module (BCM). If the door handle is not attached, incorrectly attached or the modules are defective, none of these processes will work.

If both doors will not auto-unlock and you notice Tire Pressure Management System (TPMS) is not working, there could be a problem with the RTM. The RTM receives HF signals from the fob and the wheels (the wheels and fob use the same frequency). If looking at the interior, the back, the parcel shelf in the rear, the RTM is underneath that. I've tried to locate mine and could not. A few posts and the Ford docs say the RTM is in that general area.

Edit,

If the fob is working by manually pressing the button to lock/unlock, that clears the fob and the RTM. The problem is then with the doors and handles.

The port in the center console, that is involved with the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS). I'm not aware of the port being associated with Intelligent Access (fob, door, etc.). PATS deals with the engine immobilizer and starting the vehicle. The sensor in the console confirms the presence of the fob, then unlocks the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The center console port can also power and illuminate the key, confirming it's the correct one. This allows the car to be started in-case of a bad or missing fob battery.

Looks like my problem is within the doors/handles then

 

[svtcarter]

Is it only one side or both sides? I had this issue but it was only the driver side that would not do anything, they left a connection in the door disconnected.

Just checked, passenger side works and the driver door (where they did all the work on for quarter panel) doesnt work. So it looks like ill be going back to the collision center to get it fixed

 

[daSNAK3]

Just checked, passenger side works and the driver door (where they did all the work on for quarter panel) doesnt work. So it looks like ill be going back to the collision center to get it fixed

Yea they never connected it

 

[ORRadtech]

Yea they never connected it

To be fair, I've read of a couple of instances where it was "connected" just not firmly enough.
It would still be nice if the shop would have checked all the functions.

 

[daSNAK3]

To be fair, I've read of a couple of instances where it was "connected" just not firmly enough.
It would still be nice if the shop would have checked all the functions.

Sooo not connected. Got it. You must work for a shitty shop or something.

 

[ORRadtech]

Just checked, passenger side works and the driver door (where they did all the work on for quarter panel) doesnt work. So it looks like ill be going back to the collision center to get it fixed

The last time I had a body shop repair a rear quarter panel my trunk light quit working. It kept blowing fuses. I finally traced it to a weld that had burnt through at the exact spot where the wiring harness for the trunk light touched the inside of the panel. I would have taken it back but it was a couple of months before I noticed that the trunk light was out so I just fixed it myself.

 

[ORRadtech]

Sooo not connected. Got it. You must work for a shitty shop or something.

I don't work, period.
Never worked in a body shop anyway. Your reading comprehension might need a little help because I clearly wrote that I've read about it happening.

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