Aussie Exhausts

[2GRN2]

Gooday. I had the Mishmoto H pipe put on last week, it is also fantastic. I wanted to ask you though, is yours' much, much louder now, especially on startup? you cant really get a sense of it from the videos but mine really bellows at startup, one of the guys at work asked whether it could be legal that loud.

I had the Mishimoto H on mine when I moved from QLD to ACT, failed at the testing centre with 97db (limit was 92db) in quiet mode when @3750rpm as per the test. Wasn’t much in it from legal limit but we all know how much even normal mode is above that with a res delete!

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[TomOz]

I had the Mishimoto H on mine when I moved from QLD to ACT, failed at the testing centre with 97db (limit was 92db) in quiet mode when @3750rpm as per the test. Wasn’t much in it from legal limit but we all know how much even normal mode is above that with a res delete!

Interesting.....
I moved to the ACT over a year ago, and I had the Roush H-Pipe installed prior to moving.
Went through the testing centre and they didn't even bother to test for noise as I said I was moving from VIC and taking my car with me.
They did state that any changes to a Mustang exhaust would be too loud. Did the old "you installed the h-pipe after you were here, right" deal....

The interesting thing is that the ADR specify 90 dBA as a limit on passenger cars but when you look on https://www.greenvehicleguide.gov.au the FN V8 is listed as 93 dBA and the Mach 1 is 96 dBA. Don't even ask about a Lambo (103 dBA).

I wonder how they can enforce such a low limit when from factory many cars are louder.

I have a sound meter, so I should try the test myself. I've found the official test procedure.

 

[PKs]

Got some new tips put on today. Double wall black chromed stainless. Oem tips got the snip and these with 4" outlet were welded on.

 

[OzS550]

Anybody running Corsa Touring mufflers with long tubes? Interested in your thoughts.

 

[Mustang madness2018]

Got the rest of the pics from the detailer after doing the paint correction, ceramic and PPF.

Got some new tips put on today. Double wall black chromed stainless. Oem tips got the snip and these with 4" outlet were welded on.

Looks awesome Peter.

 

[PKs]

Looks awesome Peter.

Yeah, a big improvement over the stock I think Troy.

 

[OzMustang S550]

Back in November I had a Roush H-Pipe (resonator delete) fitted to my 2019 Mustang GT 6spM. Following Roush’s instructions, the fitment was very straight forward, tight, taking about 45mins all up. The increased exhaust note and deeper note in all exhaust modes was just what I was looking for, …. so very, very happy.

Roll on to last week when my Mustang provided me my first ‘fault message’ at start-up, “Exhaust selection mode not available”, and it wasn’t fibbing either. The exhaust mode was stuck in ‘normal’, however it sounded more like ‘racetrack’. I could still highlight the various modes with the steering wheel controls, but pressing ‘OK’ wouldn’t select that mode. Only option was get a Ford dealer to check the fault out, which I did yesterday, thinking I bet they’ll blame it on the H-pipe and sure enough, they did. But in this instance, it actually WAS the root cause of the fault, but not in a way you might think, … i.e. “hey where’s my resonator?” NB. The Ford dealer did NOT charge me for the nearly 45mins spent diagnosing the issue. After Googling it, I discovered that I’m not the first person this has happened too and so thought I'd share whith others looking to install H/X pipes. So what occurred?

Somehow the front of the H-pipe had managed to ‘walk’ it’s wayback about 20-25mm out of the front OEM clamp towards the rear; … “Whisky, Tango Foxtrot”. NOTE: A liberal amount of exhaust sealer was also used on all four joints and ALL clamps were done up ‘tight as’. No wonder the exhaust gradually become louder over a period of time! The end result of the exhaust system moving rear-wards was to lightly crush the active exhaust actuator valve cables (B) onto the bodywork (A) on the RHS. This slightly damaged the insulation on the connector plug cables exposing the wire conductors for each of the four cables, which would have ‘shorted’ on the bodywork, or each other, most likely blowing a fuse and causing the ‘fault message’. The connector plug (C) also sustained some superficial damaged but clips on and off fine.

The Fixes:
H-Pipe: Back to the Installer and on the hoist and the two (front) OEM clamps were loosened off (NB. they were both still tight). The H-pipe was tapped ‘all the way back home’ with a rubber mallet into the two OEM clamps and the four bolts re-tightened. (NB. Because of the spacer bars this clamp will only tighten so far, and hence may not clamp onto the H-pipe like it did onto the (removed) OEM resonator …. just a thought. To make sure the H-pipe wouldn’t move again four tack welds (D) were applied. The rear (Roush supplied) clamps were OK and didn’t need any playing with.

Connector Plug Cables: The four damaged wires at (E), NB. showing the LHS undamaged connector for reference, were gently prised apart and each wire individually wrapped with insulation tape, and then the cable assembly also wrapped snuggly.

Fuse: The blown fuse was located (#34 – Engine Bay Fuse Box) and replaced.

With all the above completed the car was removed from the hoist and the ignition turned on. The fault message still displayed, (which one would have expected). Fired the Mustang up and used the ‘Pony’ button to see if I could again change ‘exhaust modes’ ….. YES, SUCCESS. Shut the engine off and restarted, fault message GONE! I asked the installer what I owed him for what essentially was a chargeable fix (30mins) as he did it 100% right the first time. (I know as I was in the workshop assisting him as needed as the guy was on his own). "No charge" was his reply, he wouldn't even let me buy him some lunch. Country town customer service at its best.

Later I used my newly acquired OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter for the very first time to clear the fault code.

I’ll keep a close eye on for any repeat of the rear-ward movement of the exhaust system by noting how much of the chrome exhaust tips protrude out from the bodywork. I may revisit the repairs in the future if either doesn’t appear permanent.

 

[TomOz]

Back in November I had a Roush H-Pipe (resonator delete) fitted to my 2019 Mustang GT 6spM. Following Roush’s instructions, the fitment was very straight forward, tight, taking about 45mins all up. The increased exhaust note and deeper note in all exhaust modes was just what I was looking for, …. so very, very happy.

Somehow the front of the H-pipe had managed to ‘walk’ it’s wayback about 20-25mm out of the front OEM clamp towards the rear; … “Whisky, Tango Foxtrot”. NOTE: A liberal amount of exhaust sealer was also used on all four joints and ALL clamps were done up ‘tight as’. No wonder the exhaust gradually become louder over a period of time! The end result of the exhaust system moving rear-wards was to lightly crush the active exhaust actuator valve cables (B) onto the bodywork (A) on the RHS. This slightly damaged the insulation on the connector plug cables exposing the wire conductors for each of the four cables, which would have ‘shorted’ on the bodywork, or each other, most likely blowing a fuse and causing the ‘fault message’. The connector plug (C) also sustained some superficial damaged but clips on and off fine.

....

I’ll keep a close eye on for any repeat of the rear-ward movement of the exhaust system by noting how much of the chrome exhaust tips protrude out from the bodywork. I may revisit the repairs in the future if either doesn’t appear permanent.

I had the same thing on my FN!
I had my Roush H-Pipe installed in November 2020. In January 2021 I noticed it was dripping black sooty water (was coming out of the joints), so I had a local exhaust place put exhaust sealer on it and put it back together.

2 months later I had the same issue as you - "Exhaust selection mode not available". Scared the bejesus out of me when I started the car in the work carpark! Kept blowing fuse 34.

I took it back to the exhaust place and they pushed the exhaust all the way forward and fixed the wiring - all for free.
It's been a year now and it hasn't faulted again.
I just measured and there is a finger thickness between the harness/connector and the metal flange.
The RHS of the car exhaust seems to be a bit more crowded than LHS for some reason.

I still want to get a spare RHS pigtail, just in case the repairs don't last.

 

[OzMustang S550]

I had the same thing on my FN!
I had my Roush H-Pipe installed in November 2020. In January 2021 I noticed it was dripping black sooty water (was coming out of the joints), so I had a local exhaust place put exhaust sealer on it and put it back together.

2 months later I had the same issue as you - "Exhaust selection mode not available". Scared the bejesus out of me when I started the car in the work carpark! Kept blowing fuse 34.

I took it back to the exhaust place and they pushed the exhaust all the way forward and fixed the wiring - all for free.
It's been a year now and it hasn't faulted again.
I just measured and there is a finger thickness between the harness/connector and the metal flange.
The RHS of the car exhaust seems to be a bit more crowded than LHS for some reason.

I still want to get a spare RHS pigtail, just in case the repairs don't last.

Please share if you source the pigtail/connector.

 

[GT 550]

@OzMustang S550 great write-up, good to see the problem was diagnosed and fixed quickly.

I must admit I'm a little intrigued by what could've caused this, any thoughts? The Mustang is fairly quick to launch but not quick enough to have the inertia of the pipe cause it to dislodge

 

[KermiStang]

Back in November I had a Roush H-Pipe (resonator delete) fitted to my 2019 Mustang GT 6spM. Following Roush’s instructions, the fitment was very straight forward, tight, taking about 45mins all up. The increased exhaust note and deeper note in all exhaust modes was just what I was looking for, …. so very, very happy.

Roll on to last week when my Mustang provided me my first ‘fault message’ at start-up, “Exhaust selection mode not available”, and it wasn’t fibbing either. The exhaust mode was stuck in ‘normal’, however it sounded more like ‘racetrack’. I could still highlight the various modes with the steering wheel controls, but pressing ‘OK’ wouldn’t select that mode. Only option was get a Ford dealer to check the fault out, which I did yesterday, thinking I bet they’ll blame it on the H-pipe and sure enough, they did. But in this instance, it actually WAS the root cause of the fault, but not in a way you might think, … i.e. “hey where’s my resonator?” NB. The Ford dealer did NOT charge me for the nearly 45mins spent diagnosing the issue. After Googling it, I discovered that I’m not the first person this has happened too and so thought I'd share whith others looking to install H/X pipes. So what occurred?

Somehow the front of the H-pipe had managed to ‘walk’ it’s wayback about 20-25mm out of the front OEM clamp towards the rear; … “Whisky, Tango Foxtrot”. NOTE: A liberal amount of exhaust sealer was also used on all four joints and ALL clamps were done up ‘tight as’. No wonder the exhaust gradually become louder over a period of time! The end result of the exhaust system moving rear-wards was to lightly crush the active exhaust actuator valve cables (B) onto the bodywork (A) on the RHS. This slightly damaged the insulation on the connector plug cables exposing the wire conductors for each of the four cables, which would have ‘shorted’ on the bodywork, or each other, most likely blowing a fuse and causing the ‘fault message’. The connector plug (C) also sustained some superficial damaged but clips on and off fine.

The Fixes:
H-Pipe: Back to the Installer and on the hoist and the two (front) OEM clamps were loosened off (NB. they were both still tight). The H-pipe was tapped ‘all the way back home’ with a rubber mallet into the two OEM clamps and the four bolts re-tightened. (NB. Because of the spacer bars this clamp will only tighten so far, and hence may not clamp onto the H-pipe like it did onto the (removed) OEM resonator …. just a thought. To make sure the H-pipe wouldn’t move again four tack welds (D) were applied. The rear (Roush supplied) clamps were OK and didn’t need any playing with.

Connector Plug Cables: The four damaged wires at (E), NB. showing the LHS undamaged connector for reference, were gently prised apart and each wire individually wrapped with insulation tape, and then the cable assembly also wrapped snuggly.

Fuse: The blown fuse was located (#34 – Engine Bay Fuse Box) and replaced.

With all the above completed the car was removed from the hoist and the ignition turned on. The fault message still displayed, (which one would have expected). Fired the Mustang up and used the ‘Pony’ button to see if I could again change ‘exhaust modes’ ….. YES, SUCCESS. Shut the engine off and restarted, fault message GONE! I asked the installer what I owed him for what essentially was a chargeable fix (30mins) as he did it 100% right the first time. (I know as I was in the workshop assisting him as needed as the guy was on his own). "No charge" was his reply, he wouldn't even let me buy him some lunch. Country town customer service at its best.

Later I used my newly acquired OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter for the very first time to clear the fault code.

I’ll keep a close eye on for any repeat of the rear-ward movement of the exhaust system by noting how much of the chrome exhaust tips protrude out from the bodywork. I may revisit the repairs in the future if either doesn’t appear permanent.

Great post @OzMustang S550. Great content.

@GT 550. May be as simple as a slightly smaller OD or larger ID of the new pipe. (whichever it is) The OEM clamp may feel done up real tight, but if near its limits it just may not be enough. It could feel like a tight joint initially when hanging off, it but there is also the repeated expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals (Stainless and mild steel) that could contribue to creating the environment for a "slip" under G's and vibration.

Irrespective, while mine is not the same part, it is an SS on mild steel new part with the OEM clamp in the same spot (for now) so I'll put mine up and check it anyway. (A lot cheaper than buying/replacing/building new actuator looms... )

 

[OzMustang S550]

I think that KermiStang has nailed it (i.e. the problem). I'm off to the 'big smoke' (Adelaide) in a couple of weeks to get the Mustang serviced. I've also booked the car in at an exhaust specialist that day to have the joints tack welded in a better fashion, as the welds in my post pic are somewhat temporary due to the welder used. The guy commented that the OEM clamp(s) not holding came as no surprise, ... has seen it plenty of times. He said in their experience he felt that that style of clamp was only meant to be used/tightened once (i.e. when the car was built). They usually do a 20-25mm bead weld to hold the assembly together, or use new individual clamps .

 

[GT 550]

@KermiStang totally agree I guess I'm just genuinely surprised that it moved to the extent it did with muffler cement and clamps.

Onward and upward

 

[DFB5.0]

I have been contemplating this for a while. I have a Borla Touring cat-back system on my 2017 GT, and have been content with it since it was fitted not long after I took delivery of the car in 2017.

However, I'm getting the itch for some added volume. Am I right in thinking I could swap out the center Borla resonator with the Borla X-Pipe to beef up the noise?

 

[PKs]

I have been contemplating this for a while. I have a Borla Touring cat-back system on my 2017 GT, and have been content with it since it was fitted not long after I took delivery of the car in 2017.

However, I'm getting the itch for some added volume. Am I right in thinking I could swap out the center Borla resonator with the Borla X-Pipe to beef up the noise?

Go the Borla Switchfire X pipe. Straight swap on the OEM set up. Not sure about the touring. You should ask Borla.

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