Audio Upgrade issues Help

[rambunctious]

I am not 100% positive, but I think the engine enhancement is output also from at least the drivers door speaker. so it is being mixed into the front channels....

Ramb

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[Mid_life_crisis]

(Ive used Audison processors before on other cars and have seen this kind an issue before, but its never been this loud.)

This is useful information to have. I was thinking that it might have something to do with the noise cancellation system starting up, but after reading this, I agree that you might need to create a turn-on delay for the processor and/or your amp.

 

[StealthStang]

This is useful information to have. I was thinking that it might have something to do with the noise cancellation system starting up, but after reading this, I agree that you might need to create a turn-on delay for the processor and/or your amp.

Okay, so i looked for those time delay settings and found them. I found default 2000ms power on delay and 2000ms power off delay.

According to the manual, the power off delay won't do much, so ive decided to up the power on delay to 2500ms.

Considering that the buzz's lasted about one second i figured that if i increased it to 2500ms and i hear a shorter buzz i know that this setting is helping then i can maybe increase it further until i no longer hear the buzz.

This car has been a pretty difficult installation, much more so than any other vehicle ive had upgraded before. :headbonk:

 

[StealthStang]

After adding the delay i still get the buzz, its difficult to reproduce, it does it only sometimes. You seem to have to leave the car alone for a while then open it before it does it again.

Ill try a longer delay, then move to disconnecting the mic. If that fails my only option seems to be to try another processor.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

I don't remember all the configurations you've tried.
Have you left the factory system alone up to the inputs of the factory amp and run the four front channels into the Audison as high level inputs? That would provide the least disruption of the factory setup, I would think. Not sure how you would program for that, will the Audison "Sum" the high and low channels to one set of equalized outputs?
Do you have the premium system or base, I forget.

 

[Gronk]

Figured I'd chime in. I'm running both the factory amp and a JL Audio amp.
I started with just a speaker swap to JBL 638's, 628's, and 329's. Minimal improvement.
I added the JL Audio amp (5-channel) to power the fronts and rears which are full range, along with the sub.

I took the line level front/rear signals from the factory amp inputs with Molex/RCA connectors to the JL Audio amp, and major improvement.

I decided to split the line level signals back to the factory amp to power the 329's mid range and the center channel, I left the factory pillar tweeters disconnected since the 329's and 628's both have tweeters. (and to avoid mismatched impedence since the tweeters and mids are wire parallel)

After a few adjustments on the amp gains and crossover, the system is very enjoyable with much improved bass with the sub (Rockford Fosgate 10") and better full range sound at the front and rears, plus the center channel functionality, mainly for phone bluetooth audio, and the soundfield is better up front with the addition of the 329 mids. With the Vol set between 18-20 I have more then enough power to drive evrything. I like it loud and clear! and no distrortion!

I retained full functionality of the head unit (sync 2 w/Nav) including balance and fade. I like the soundfield center right behind the front seats.

 

[StealthStang]

I don't remember all the configurations you've tried.
Have you left the factory system alone up to the inputs of the factory amp and run the four front channels into the Audison as high level inputs? That would provide the least disruption of the factory setup, I would think. Not sure how you would program for that, will the Audison "Sum" the high and low channels to one set of equalized outputs?
Do you have the premium system or base, I forget.

How its connected now, using the factory head front output (which is input to the stock amp). Sending that to the bit ten RCA inputs which are low level i think. Summing that input, its sent to the kicker amp, which then outputs 2x channels to FL+FR tweeter&mid (passive crossover) and 2x channel to the woofer which is active (bandpass from the bit Ten).
Rears and centre channel are connected to the stock amp.
Works fine except for the 3 loud buzzes when the electrics come on.

Before that I was using the inputs after the factory amp into the high level input of the bit ten, that caused all kinds of weird issues with the stock centre channel. Even after summing the sound was sounding really bad and the centre channel was playing really loud. Since the centre channel is made from the front left and right channel, if it doesnt sense front left and right speakers it plays everything through the centre channel.

Gronk, any ideas whats causing the 3 loud low frequency buzz's that i hear when the electrics come on ? Im using the green wire at the bottom of the kick panel to turn the processor and amps on.

*Edit i think im getting closer to the problem, the way this cars electrics switches on, it does so kinda in stages and its that fast on/off changes thats causing the processor some grief, like its switching on of and on again too quickly.

 

[StealthStang]

Still no luck with the longer delay. Going to have to remove the processor and try another type, or maybe just go with a line out converter, hopefully i can keep the clipping under control if i use line outs.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

How about using a timed relay to give the car thirty seconds to settle in before starting the stereo electronics?

 

[Racemaster]

Here is the factory plug schematic.

Pin #1 the blue/green tracer is the 6 volt amp turn-on.
Get yourself a PAC TR-4 low voltage trigger.
It has a slight delay in it,plus gives out 12 volts.

Problem solved!

 

[StealthStang]

Hey guys, i just recently found out that the processor is being started up using its signal sense feature instead of using the green accessory wire for remote turn on (my installer was worried that tapping the accessory wire might cause undesired behaviour in the head unit/camera).

Is it possible that because we are using signal sense turn on we are picking up garbage from the system before it has properly started up and hence outputting it through the speakers ?

I suspect this is the culprit, sorry i didnt mention this before but i thought we were using the green accessory wire to turn on via remote instead of signal sense.
Do you think that this the issue or should i be looking elsewhere.

 

[StealthStang]

Still does the loud buzz sometimes, even after using remote turn on wire from the rear which should before turning the system on after any garbage gets in through the input signal. Not sure what to do now other than revert to stock.
Also the remote 12V wire seems to stay on for a long time.

 

[Mid_life_crisis]

Still does the loud buzz sometimes, even after using remote turn on wire from the rear which should before turning the system on after any garbage gets in through the input signal. Not sure what to do now other than revert to stock.
Also the remote 12V wire seems to stay on for a long time.

Test something please. Instead of the remote turn on wire, find a reliable switched 12volt lead, start the car, wait 30 seconds and connect the 12v source to the turn on of the Bit 10. If there is no noise, try a shorter time. You seem to be the first person to post about this problem, and it is a known Audison issue from what you posted before. You might need to work around it. If a heavy delay on applying a turn on signal works, timed relays are cheap.

 

[StealthStang]

Okay after many many hours of trying various things (thanks for all the help from you guys especially !) and some help directly from Kicker in the US I think its finally sorted.

All the hardware is in and the weird 3 loud buzz hasnt happened for a over a day (touches wood). According to the techs we spoke to, that buzz sound is suspected to be some kind of test or warning sound, apparently it can be removed by the diagnostic tool the dealers have but getting them to do it can be an issue since they might question such an extensive upgrade.

The issues - there were some minor wiring differences between RHD and LHD cars. (Id document it but another user already did recently here : http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67461)

Also these cars have multiple stages of electrics on (off, standby, limited accessory power, full accessory power and ignition/engine on ).
Its imperative that your processor and amps come on at the time that the stock amp or head unit does, otherwise its going to pick up all kinds of garbage if it turns on in a stage thats too early, turn on too late and you wont have sound playing at stages where the OEM stuff normally does, then theres also the chance that the amps take very long to turn off or dont turn off at all which will kill your battery eventually.

In the end, the closest way to turning on like OEM is to power on from the amp factory plug like racemaster suggested, but then you need a special relay trigger (which i couldnt source) or a processor or amp that has the DC 6V offset remote turn on. Most US audio hardware seems to have this, but my audison did not so i had to switch to a Kicker front row, alternatively i could have used the 6v offset mode direct from the KX amp but i would have lost a fair bit of control.

Anyway again many thanks for the help, hopefully this might help somebody else in future on a RHD Ecoboost. It was a real frustrating issue and i hope its 100% sorted now and i dont have any battery drain issues.

 

[Racemaster]

You can not order a PAC TR-4 from anyone here in the states?I would try and get one wired in if you can.You want the processor to come on first,then the amp.The audison has a in and out turn-on lead to do just that.You could leave the ford amp plugged in and just tap off the blue/green to the PAC.Then feed it to the audison,then to your amp.That should turn it all on in the proper sequence and eliminate any noises.

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