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At what horsepower?

whatsup62

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Maybe the climate is to blame (summer tires in cool temps)?
I would agree. Hot summer days traction is there....cool nights (when we race) traction not there. Upgrading to DR's and half shafts. Boost after that.
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RoushCharged

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No traction in 1st or 2nd (and to some extend 3rd) with the stock tires when pushing it. Rolling on the throttle works OK. I'm not going DR route when replacing them though since I don't want to make the handling any worse.
 

Zemedici

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I'm not sure why he is having traction issues at that power level (~430 wheel HP). I'm within 20hp of that and there are no issues with the stock 275s of the PP. Can make them spin if I want to but if I roll away from a stop and mat it there is no spin. Absolutely no spin what so ever in 2nd unless I make an aggressive shift. Maybe the climate is to blame (summer tires in cool temps)?

was wondering the same. I could make my car spin on the stock tires if I wanted to, hell they'd haze 3rd, but I could also make them hook if I wanted to.

I would agree. Hot summer days traction is there....cool nights (when we race) traction not there. Upgrading to DR's and half shafts. Boost after that.

Please don't upgrade your half shafts for street use. No need. If its not broke don't fix it. And don't believe the hype. You wont break a halfshaft on the street, period. You will spin.
 

whatsup62

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was wondering the same. I could make my car spin on the stock tires if I wanted to, hell they'd haze 3rd, but I could also make them hook if I wanted to.
Its hard to stay ahead of the car next to you when trying to make them hook.


Please don't upgrade your half shafts for street use. No need. If its not broke don't fix it. And don't believe the hype. You wont break a halfshaft on the street, period. You will spin.
I'm not. Planning on a lot of track time. Building the car first to compliment boost. Then boost. Id' rather "fix it" before I break it and have a tow home.
 

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You guys know you can ask your tuner to clip torque in lower gears right?

You can have the ECU manage output in the torque control tables, give you full hit when in gears that can handle it
 

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Speaking of tuning, what's a ball park amount of time each person has paid a tuner. I called a local shop and they said the last mustang they tuned took about 8 hours. Now back in the day when I was tuning my imports we were dialed in about 2-3 hours. At $125 an hour that's seems steep. Thoughts?
 

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Speaking of tuning, what's a ball park amount of time each person has paid a tuner. I called a local shop and they said the last mustang they tuned took about 8 hours. Now back in the day when I was tuning my imports we were dialed in about 2-3 hours. At $125 an hour that's seems steep. Thoughts?
It seems like a lot of guys in here are doing remote tuning, mostly through Lund. Most shops I have dealt with have a flat rate for tuning common builds. My last car was $500 for initial tune, not including the handheld, and only took about 2 hours while letting it cool between pulls. It gets expensive quick.
 

madweazl

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Speaking of tuning, what's a ball park amount of time each person has paid a tuner. I called a local shop and they said the last mustang they tuned took about 8 hours. Now back in the day when I was tuning my imports we were dialed in about 2-3 hours. At $125 an hour that's seems steep. Thoughts?
I think eight hours is a bit extreme but expecting two to three with some of the '15s curve balls is a bit unrealistic. I could easily see spending five hours on the dyno for a quality tune. I wouldnt be upset if it took a full eight hours for a quality tune.
 

Strokerswild

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You guys know you can ask your tuner to clip torque in lower gears right?

You can have the ECU manage output in the torque control tables, give you full hit when in gears that can handle it
Good to know....

My GT500 was ~545 to the wheels, and was worthless in first and a good portion of second. I'd love to supercharge my GT, but really have no desire for a tractionless wonder again (no interest in running DRs either).

I'm almost thinking longtubes, CAI, and a healthy tune and I'd be content for general road use. :cheers:
 

foghat

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Good to know....

My GT500 was ~545 to the wheels, and was worthless in first and a good portion of second. I'd love to supercharge my GT, but really have no desire for a tractionless wonder again (no interest in running DRs either).

I'm almost thinking longtubes, CAI, and a healthy tune and I'd be content for general road use. :cheers:
Go with a centri, they should hook up better than a pd as the torque curve is more linear.

I have long tubes, honestly if I had to do it again (and the canadian dollar wasn't in the toilet), I would put the money paid for the headers and the install (which is not cheap) towards a procharger (which I can install myself).

That said, headers will definitely help with the numbers once I do go forced induction.
 

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thedalejrfan

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830whp, NR555R in 305/35/20 and I can get traction at the top of second. Although sometimes, depending on weather, it'll break free in third.
Still running the stock rear half shafts?
 

Strokerswild

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Go with a centri, they should hook up better than a pd as the torque curve is more linear.
Agreed....a ProCharger is at the top of my potential FI list....
 

Process

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Still running the stock rear half shafts?
Yep, when I ran 9's they were stock. I slipped the hell out of the clutch though.

Kids don't try this at home, do it at grandma's.
 

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Speaking of tuning, what's a ball park amount of time each person has paid a tuner. I called a local shop and they said the last mustang they tuned took about 8 hours. Now back in the day when I was tuning my imports we were dialed in about 2-3 hours. At $125 an hour that's seems steep. Thoughts?

When a shop 'Tuned' my viper they charged me 4 hours.
But not really sure if that is a normal length of time or not.
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