Are PP1 struts the same as regular GT?

[pyrophilus]

Hello everyone,

I have a 2019 GT with performance pack (not level 2) WITHOUT magneride.
The car hit over 30,000miles and I noticed the the car bottoming out on a same kinda of bump.
now I drive a LOT slower (like <5MPH) going over it.

I have leased my last two mustangs, but before then, when I used to own cars, I would just do a preemtive replacement of the struts (I do the work by myself).

This being said, I was contemplating on replacing the front struts on my '19, but when shopping online for the parts, I am a bit confused. Do non-magneride PP mustang GT's have the same struts as any other GT's?

Ford dealer parts sites list an array of struts, but from what I see, they are listed as, without adaptive damping, with adaptive damping, shelby or no shelby...

And some other places seem to list, "OEM performance pack struts" vs non. I don't see anything else regarding this. So...

Other than the obvious differences (brakes, torsen, etc...), what exactly is different/same between PP1 and base/prem GT in regards to the strut/coilsprings?

I know some (or many) will say, "hey, just ditch them and go aftermarket". I have Ford extended warranty and I would rather not put parts that, "deviate" from the factory as the dealers around me are hell bent on denying warranty based on the non-OEM dice valvestem cap... Furthermore, I kinda like keeping my car looking factory-new and factory spec.

Thanks for the help.

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[AvalancheSVT]

step 1: call dealer parts department
step 2: get them to tell you the part numbers for struts for your car then a normal GT
step 3: enjoy a mystery solved.

 

[pyrophilus]

step 1: call dealer parts department
step 2: get them to tell you the part numbers for struts for your car then a normal GT
step 3: enjoy a mystery solved.

I live in Westchester NY. Unfortunately, the dealer parts depts around here are HORRIBLE. I've been put on hold forever. One time I wanted to check the part number on the front hubs and the guy wouldn't do it over the phone. He said I should come in. When I did, he really tried to have me bring my car in so that they can inspect it (It had a busted right front bearing). and then when they identified it, he was really insistent that I just go through service. Service told me that they would have to inspect the bearing to see if it is a manufacturer's defect or if it was wear and tear, so they couldn't(wouldn't) guarantee that the new vehicle warranty (back then it was under factory warranty) would cover it until they tore it down. I said if I do not want to go through them if it is not warrantied can I get the car back? I was told that yes, but they'd charge me labor for teardown and reassembly, so I am better off just paying for the work...

Anyway, I wish there was a dealer around here that was better. I found a dealer in CT that was better before Covid, but during covid they started to jack up prices for cars (they currently have $15k markup for all Mach E's, and they had a $60k markup on a GT500 in their lobby two years ago).

For this reason I try to avoid local dealers in the area. I was ready to buy a 2021 GT premium, but after shopping with dealers, I gave up and got my first used car ('19 PP 5MT).

Anyway, sorry for the long explanation. I guess I will have to drive into area dealers and try to get them to give me part numbers...

 

[glockholiday]

Yeah go to the parts counter at the dealer and have them look up your car by the VIN # and they'll get you the right ones but not sure if that'll answer your question still

 

[Zrussian13]

I live in Westchester NY. Unfortunately, the dealer parts depts around here are HORRIBLE. I've been put on hold forever. One time I wanted to check the part number on the front hubs and the guy wouldn't do it over the phone. He said I should come in. When I did, he really tried to have me bring my car in so that they can inspect it (It had a busted right front bearing). and then when they identified it, he was really insistent that I just go through service. Service told me that they would have to inspect the bearing to see if it is a manufacturer's defect or if it was wear and tear, so they couldn't(wouldn't) guarantee that the new vehicle warranty (back then it was under factory warranty) would cover it until they tore it down. I said if I do not want to go through them if it is not warrantied can I get the car back? I was told that yes, but they'd charge me labor for teardown and reassembly, so I am better off just paying for the work...

Anyway, I wish there was a dealer around here that was better. I found a dealer in CT that was better before Covid, but during covid they started to jack up prices for cars (they currently have $15k markup for all Mach E's, and they had a $60k markup on a GT500 in their lobby two years ago).

For this reason I try to avoid local dealers in the area. I was ready to buy a 2021 GT premium, but after shopping with dealers, I gave up and got my first used car ('19 PP 5MT).

Anyway, sorry for the long explanation. I guess I will have to drive into area dealers and try to get them to give me part numbers...

Hit up Benny at Levittown ford. He's on the forum so you can do it right here.

 

[pyrophilus]

Hit up Benny at Levittown ford. He's on the forum so you can do it right here.

Thank you very much. I will hit him up!
I am pretty sure I ordered a part from them a year or two ago. great service.

 

[luc]

Hello everyone,

I have a 2019 GT with performance pack (not level 2) WITHOUT magneride.
The car hit over 30,000miles and I noticed the the car bottoming out on a same kinda of bump.
now I drive a LOT slower (like <5MPH) going over it.

I have leased my last two mustangs, but before then, when I used to own cars, I would just do a preemtive replacement of the struts (I do the work by myself).

This being said, I was contemplating on replacing the front struts on my '19, but when shopping online for the parts, I am a bit confused. Do non-magneride PP mustang GT's have the same struts as any other GT's?

Ford dealer parts sites list an array of struts, but from what I see, they are listed as, without adaptive damping, with adaptive damping, shelby or no shelby...

And some other places seem to list, "OEM performance pack struts" vs non. I don't see anything else regarding this. So...

Other than the obvious differences (brakes, torsen, etc...), what exactly is different/same between PP1 and base/prem GT in regards to the strut/coilsprings?

I know some (or many) will say, "hey, just ditch them and go aftermarket". I have Ford extended warranty and I would rather not put parts that, "deviate" from the factory as the dealers around me are hell bent on denying warranty based on the non-OEM dice valvestem cap... Furthermore, I kinda like keeping my car looking factory-new and factory spec.

Thanks for the help.

Pp suspension, and that includes springs and shocks, have always been different than the regular, non pp, Gt

 

[shogun32]

The pp1 is the same as Ford performance street kit. It's rubbish. Either replace with Bilstein dampers or those from the Ford Performance TRACK kit

 

[Roger Blose]

All Mustang GTs have the same Front struts starting in 2018 according to the chief engineer. This was written up in the Mustang Times MCA magazine back in the day. It was done to improve handling over the 2015-17 GTs. Both of my 2018 fronts struts were leaking oil at 7K and had to be replaced under warrantee. Bilsteins or Konis will be next after the awful Pirelli P Zeros dissolve soon!

 

[StangTime]

Strut part# is JR3C-18045-BA (same for both sides). This is the number on the struts that I removed from my PP1.

 

[compprep]

Strut part# is JR3C-18045-BA (same for both sides). This is the number on the struts that I removed from my PP1.

Same number as the ones off my 2019 GT PP1. I'll GIVE you mine if you want them. Have approx. 11K miles. All Steeda parts now. My zip is 13502, Utica, NY so kinda close. You pay shipping or meet halfway say.

 

[rhexis]

if you are going to replace them go with the ford track pack shocks and struts. pair those with their track lowering springs and your ride will be transformed. night and day difference and you can probably still get them all for under 1k at levittown ford.

 

[Firsttexan]

if you are going to replace them go with the ford track pack shocks and struts. pair those with their track lowering springs and your ride will be transformed. night and day difference and you can probably still get them all for under 1k at levittown ford.

Please describe transformed, how was the ride harshness on the street?

 

[rhexis]

Please describe transformed, how was the ride harshness on the street?

much more planted. body roll is gone at least at the speeds that keep you out of jail. no brake dive either. the ride is firmer but not jarring. that was my main concern. the springs dropped my front about an inch and in the rear maybe half of that but i like how it sits now. the rest of the pp1 suspension internals are in the full track pack so i just went with the shocks, struts and springs.

 

[15BluStang]

I would replace the struts, shocks, and springs with Steeda versions. I have done that with my previous EB and current GT PP1 Mustangs. Give them a call and describe what kind of ride and handling that you are looking for. They can set you up you up.

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