Advice for suspension essentials while I’m doing my springs and shocks/struts

[JCS]

I have a 2016 GT CS. The car is repaired from a total loss. I have changed all the weel bearings, I can tell rear shocks are bad, also some of the bushings are bad. I drove it quite a bit, it drives pretty nice but when making sweeping right corners at most speeds the rear floats around a little, like it’s hunting for traction almost.., other than that it drives fine, handles good, if I’m in a hard right it’s planted and I don’t notice it, it’s just sweeping right corners. I’m going to get under it and pinpoint the worn stuff this week and get the parts ordered.

While I’m in there, any easy to overlook stuff that’s an efficient upgrade?

I’m already doing ford performance track handling kit (shocks, struts, springs, sway bars, and toe links) going to do a cradle busing lockout and vertical links. Plus whatever yet to be discovered worn or damaged parts. Open to some wisdom from those who have been in there a few times. lol.

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[TopJimmyCooks]

I’d upgrade the rear upper shock mounts while it’s torn apart. The stock ones are low quality and break.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I’d upgrade the rear upper shock mounts while it’s torn apart. The stock ones are low quality and break.

They aint that bad, and swapping back and forth from stock to steeda billet mounts a few times to diagnose a noise and frankly I couldnt tell the difference at all.

The rear lower control arm bushing is a big deal. Inspect it an consider swapping it out with a bearing if the rear control arm is off anyway.

Get the ford performance rear toe link bearing.

If you replace old or torn diff bushings theres one stock-like aftermarket replacement (i dont remember but do a search) which is cheaper than a new cradle but dont use hard diff inserts or poly bushings if you dont want nosie.

Inspect the front bushings too.

Consider some front camber plates, they help front grip a ton.

Its all a wast of effort and money if you dont run decent tires however

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Get the FP control arm kit as well too, gives the steering a nice solid feel with the spherical bearing added there.

 

[gtppmt]

I would also replace the control arms and outer tie rods if you haven't already. For me, the Mustang is the only car where all the ball joints went bad. The V8 engine must be heavy.

 

[S550HPP]

The upper mounts are sacrificial so don't tear out unibody like "upgraded" ones that will sacrifice unibody that next to impossible to repair with same integrity. Just use Ford OE.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

You can see what I have in sig. FP Track Handling Pack on order. May get it someday. Been waiting since December.

 

[Mustang Maverick]

Ford Performance makes some great parts.
They have the upgraded Strut Mounts with the Cam Plates built in.
And sell the entire suspension set up package.

I like the Steeda products.
Active Dampers
Progressive Springs
Cam Plates
Shock Mounts
And they sell packages too.

Depends on if you are daily driver or track car or a bit of both.
Lots of smart folks on this forum and we all have our own opinions, but none of them bad - just different points of view and driving styles.

 

[SheepDog]

The upper mounts are sacrificial so don't tear out unibody like "upgraded" ones that will sacrifice unibody that next to impossible to repair with same integrity. Just use Ford OE.

Have you seen or had this happen?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Have you seen or had this happen?

We’ve seen it. Its not a fun repair. Its not super common but yeah its a thing. Rips the studs out of the body instead of punching through the cheap and easily replacable OEM upper mount.

Probably less risky if you’re running full size OEM bumpstops and are NOT lowered. If you’re lowered and running full size shocks, you’re going to be banging the upper mounts more often and/or harder. Some aftermarket mounts allow you to relocate the mount a bit higher which is a cool feature for lowered cars, and some of those offer better wheel clearance, but the OEM mounts are the safest option if you are trying to minimize risk of a very inconvenient repair.

 

[JCS]

Get the FP control arm kit as well too, gives the steering a nice solid feel with the spherical bearing added there.

I added the FP control arm kit to the list, will look into the spherical bearings too.

I would also replace the control arms and outer tie rods if you haven't already. For me, the Mustang is the only car where all the ball joints went bad. The V8 engine must be heavy.

Tie rods are new, adding the FP control arms to the list too.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I added the FP control arm kit to the list, will look into the spherical bearings too.



Tie rods are new, adding the FP control arms to the list too.

the FP control arm comes with the spherical bearing. you can add more if you like but each one adds more harshness. my car is plenty stiff with the FP track springs/shocks, steeda stop the hop, steeda sway bars, and the FP toe link bearing. PS4S have fairly stiff sidewalls too. On terrible roads its borderline harsh (but i would say the same for most cars) but on normal roads not bad at all

 

[S550HPP]

Have you seen or had this happen?

I have heard about it and cringed. The thought of a unibody tear out makes me cry.

 

[SheepDog]

We’ve seen it. Its not a fun repair. Its not super common but yeah its a thing. Rips the studs out of the body instead of punching through the cheap and easily replacable OEM upper mount.

Probably less risky if you’re running full size OEM bumpstops and are NOT lowered. If you’re lowered and running full size shocks, you’re going to be banging the upper mounts more often and/or harder. Some aftermarket mounts allow you to relocate the mount a bit higher which is a cool feature for lowered cars, and some of those offer better wheel clearance, but the OEM mounts are the safest option if you are trying to minimize risk of a very inconvenient repair.

I see. Well I just ordered a set of the J&M upper mounts. I have no intention of lowering the car, and am only doing this to fit a 345 wide tire in the back. J&M seemed to be the only ones compatible with the Magneride shocks. These do use a bearing instead of the rubber bushing that the OEM mount has. Is this something I should be concerned about? They also sell a kit that bolts through into the trunk, and then has a brace connecting the two shock mounts

 

[NightmareMoon]

I see. Well I just ordered a set of the J&M upper mounts. I have no intention of lowering the car, and am only doing this to fit a 345 wide tire in the back. J&M seemed to be the only ones compatible with the Magneride shocks. These do use a bearing instead of the rubber bushing that the OEM mount has. Is this something I should be concerned about? They also sell a kit that bolts through into the trunk, and then has a brace connecting the two shock mounts

Honestly I wouldn't worry about it. I had to slightly modify the J&M mounts because the holes were spaced too wide, which was a little disappointing, but not a big deal. Hopefully they've corrected it since then.

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