Another MT-82 Problem

[ArcsandSparks]

Alrighty folks, before I take the car to Ford let's see if anyone can point me in the correct direction. I've included as much info as I could think of- as well as my own hypothesis.

I'm thinking the OEM clutch let go and is causing the noise- if this is true, how does everyone feel about the McLeod RST?

I'm a little bit too deaf to hear if it's coming from a catalytic converter, but I know that oem cats have been known to fail; I just couldn't imagine it would happen this quickly. Because of this, I'm avoiding driving the vehicle and have an appointment with the closest Ford dealer that I trust (less than 4 miles away).


Symptoms:

Metal on metal whirring noise coming from the transmission/bellhousing area. Increases in volume + rate with engine RPM.

If I turn the engine off with the vehicle moving and the transmission in neutral, the noise goes away.

If I turn the engine off with the vehicle moving and the transmission in gear with the clutch depressed, the noise goes away.

The noise is directly correlated with engine RPM, and the transmission seems to be working as intended. There have been no changes in clutch pedal feel or shifter feel/operation- this noise is the only symptom.

Background:

I'm not sure when the noise started- it was either after a 2-3 upshift or when I got back into the throttle after shifting into 3rd.
The 2-3 upshift was clean- I have an MGW shifter and haven't missed a shift since I installed it.

Vehicle Mods:

Roush S/C, MGW shifter, Steeda braided clutch line, x-pipe, and various suspension modifications.

Sponsored

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Took the car to Ford and they confirmed that the noise was coming from the transmission, not the catalytic converter- so that was reassuring.

I grabbed a trans jack from harbor freight and got the trans out in 4 hours, and found the cause of the problem!

A bolt had worked it's way into the space into the small gap behind the flywheel and was rattling around. When the flywheel stopped moving, the noise went away- which would make sense because the bolt was found behind the flywheel.



Now, does anyone have any clutch suggestions? I'm looking for something that can handle around 650hp, heavier pedal feel is okay as long as it doesn't chatter.

 

[Jimmy G]

Bolt worked it's way out from what?

Pic?

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Let's hope these show up.

The only way I can imagine it getting there is a bolt fell from the intake manifold as I removed it and dropped into the hole in the intake valley, but even that is a long shot. The noise started occurring 5 days after installing the S/C, and I imagine it would have popped up sooner.

Regardless, I'm replacing the flywheel and clutch assembly-

 

[ArcsandSparks]

I'm looking at the Exedy Mach 600 Stage 4 clutch- https://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-stage2-clutch-2015gt.html

Does anyone have an option they'd recommend over this choice? Roush claims 670hp at the crank, I'll probably turn that up a bit in the future, and I don't want to pull the trans again if I do.

 

[Jimmy G]

.....The only way I can imagine it getting there is a bolt fell from the intake manifold as I removed it and dropped into the hole in the intake valley, but even that is a long shot. The noise started occurring 5 days after installing the S/C, and I imagine it would have popped up sooner...

Yup, that'd do it.

You sorted it, so happy days .

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Went ahead and ordered the Exedy Clutch. I chose the Mach 600 Stage 4- I've driven it before and liked the feel, it's definitely a bit heavier than stock but shouldn't be too noisy.

 

[JOKER M1]

Call Bill Garrett at EXEDY before you do/buy anything. You will be happy you did.

 

[cop on my back]

I had an RST, 2 of them actually. If you don't plan on beating on it, it should be ok. Mine were both no good (dragging and couldn't get them in gear with engine running) after one road course event. I would steer away from the RST personally. RXT maybe. I ended up with a Excedy Mach 500. Very happy with it and it had zero issues after pounding on it on a track day.

My $0.02 worth.

 

[ArcsandSparks]

Spoke with Bill from Exedy and he confirmed that the Mach 600 Stage 4 clutch is the way to go for my power level and driving habits- so that was great to hear.

Does anyone have a link to the Ford procedure for bench bleeding the TOB?

Also- is SCT the only handheld tuner that can perform a crank re-learn? I'd hate to have to buy one just for this install, but if it's a must, I'll have to get one.

 

[cop on my back]

You Tube and I think Excedy have great videos that show this. It is easy. You will probably have to do a crank relearn, I did. If you do, the car will run, but poorly after a while. Cheaper to get a shop to do a quick relearn, takes 2 minutes if that. I have a SCT so I did it myself.

 

[ArcsandSparks]

You Tube and I think Excedy have great videos that show this. It is easy. You will probably have to do a crank relearn, I did. If you do, the car will run, but poorly after a while. Cheaper to get a shop to do a quick relearn, takes 2 minutes if that. I have a SCT so I did it myself.

Ended up purchasing a Lund nGauge- apparently it can do the crank relearn as well. I was already in the market for one so it made sense to just get it now.

 

[JOKER M1]

Bench bleeding the TOB is as simple as filling a cup with some brake fluid then submerge the tip in the fluid and just compress & release slowly TOB slowly until there are no more bubbles.

I didn’t have to do a crank relearn, you may not have to do one either.

Sponsored