Another GT to Brembo thread. Help me make an informed decision.

[shogun32]

If you’re tracking and swapping to brembos you need to swap the brake master cylinder and booster as well.

I am pretty sure this assertion was debunked.

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[shogun32]

If I need to post the part numbers for gray, black, red and orange Brembo calipers let me know.

== CALIPERS ==
front

• red: KR3Z-2B121-A, KR3Z-2B120-A <$263, BRCF432,3
• black: FR3Z-2B121-G? FR3Z-2B120-F <$288, BRCF430,1
• orange: MR3Z-2B121-B, MR3Z-2B120-B <$332

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
https://www.bluespringsfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...rd-caliper-assembly-brake-less-pad-mr3z2b121b
rear

• red: KR3Z-2552-A, KR3Z-2553-A $130
• orange: MR3Z-2552-A, MR3Z-2553-A, $120
• red bracket: KR3Z-2B511-A $114

 

[pkim17]

So, from a light research, I’ve come to the conclusion that PowerStop = bad; Centric = good; Stop tech = also good. Is this accurate? If so, does Centric still make Slotted rotors for our cars, where could they be bought? Would these be as good as the OEM (or close enough)?

StopTech is a reputable company.
With that being said, both StopTech and Centric are under the same umbrella of a parent company.
They've been essentially reported to be the exact same product just boxed with the different brand. Centric is often cheaper by a margin.

Here is an thread that links to the Centric Catalog:
https://trackmustangsonline.com/articles/centric-stoptech-brake-rotor-replacement-model-numbers.2/

You can read into this thread. You can also find my past comments in there as well as I also bought my Centric High Carbons few months ago:

https://trackmustangsonline.com/thr...raybestos-r-line-vs-other-rotors.15570/page-2

Zero complaints, no different with OEM quality. Unfortunately same weight too.. haha

 

[luke1333]

I'm in the market for upgrading my 17 GT brakes after tracking my car a couple of months ago. To be fair, my GT is my daily driver, and I'm only planning on tracking it every couple of months.

Out of curiosity, today I called my local dealer asking for the Bullitt brembos, gave them the PNs, and they quoted me a phenomenal price, and paid (if the deal is legit, I can post details later).
Since the parts salesperson wasn't able to find the words 'red' and/or 'bullitt' in the part description, he said that when the brakes arrive, if they aren't the ones I wanted, they can keep the calipers, and I can get a refund. In all honesty, as long as they are the 6pot ones, I'd keep them, regardless of color.

IF they are indeed the 6 pot brembos, I figured I'd need the following (thanks to the people who have posted about this, and Levittown Ford)[If these are correct, I'd get a quote from the dealership as well, before buying online]:
- Caliper Pin Kit - FR3Z-2068-C (x2): 'generic' hardware kits such as the Steeda, Raybestos, or even RockAuto would work exactly the same, correct?
- Left & Right Splash Shield - FR3Z-2K005-H & FR3Z-2K004-H
- Gaskets W711784-S300 (x4)
- Front 15" Rotors - KR3Z-1125-G (x2) [Still unsure if I want slotted (or drilled) ones, the OEM ones, or if I should get OEM quality replacements]
- Pads (was thinking Z23 or Z26)
- I understand my brake lines will work on the brembos, correct? (Yes I'm planning on upgrading the fluid too, was thinking Motul 660)

HOWEVER, if they aren't the 6 piston ones, I thought I would just keep my 4 piston ones and just upgrade the rotors & pads. (Let's face it, although not as good as the Brembos, the stock Continentals aren't too shabby).
Is there a way to improve the cooling in the 14" rotors (as in, for example, would the splash shields from the PP fit a 14" rotor)? Sure, I understand slotted rotors is a great improvement, and that is what I'm leaning towards.

Thoughts?

My two cents after doing this back in the fall. Everything factory, prices aren't terrible especially with places like Levittown online pricing.

Is it really worth saving a few bucks on the "generic" hardware kits? Will they work the same, probably just not something I would risk.

Factory rotors and pads are great. Zero noise but be prepared for brake dust!! That's the trade off I guess for good brake feel and no noise.

Factory brake fluid is fine as long as you don't plan on tracking a ton.

Can always add cooling ducts off mach or shelby if you want to added cooling if you do track it a lot.

The 6 pistons do like 10x better which is mainly why I did them to match the calipers to the interior not so much for performance difference

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I am pretty sure this assertion was debunked.

Nope, I tried multiple combos.

Gotta do the PP Master and Booster if you're tracking it.

If just street driving, you can get away without it.

 

[Howitzer]

Nope, I tried multiple combos.

Gotta do the PP Master and Booster if you're tracking it.

If just street driving, you can get away without it.

Can you explain? Maybe some other factors are also at play. But I came from a base GT, have Brembo brakes and have not had any brake issues related to this yet. I have about 8 track days with this setup so far on various tracks.

 

[shogun32]

Gotta do the PP Master and Booster if you're tracking it.

the issue was pedal travel, right? I did a piston ratio calculation.

Master
GT/GT350 27mm, 572mm^2
GT/PP 28mm, 615.7mm^2

Calipers - Front
2-pot 43x2, 2904mm^2
2904*2/572 = 10.15

4-pot 46x4, 6647
6647*2/572 = 23.2

6-pot 36x6, 6107
6107*2/615.7 = 19.84
6107*2/572 = 21.3

GT350 34/36/38: 6120
6120*2/572 = 21.4

Wilwood 120-13293/4
44.4/35(2): 3472.53
3472*2/615.7 = 11.28
3472*2/572 = 12.14

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Can you explain? Maybe some other factors are also at play. But I came from a base GT, have Brembo brakes and have not had any brake issues related to this yet. I have about 8 track days with this setup so far on various tracks.

My variables are GLOC R18's, Motul 600, no splash shields, PP undertray, and Vorshlag air deflectors.

I'm a left foot braker whenever possible so I'm on the brakes faster and harder often with throttle overlap. Pedal travel was inconsistent. I swapped the PP Master. Pedal travel got consistent and firm, but booster response on application and release was inconsistent. I swapped to the PP booster and all was good in the world again.

I came from a 2019 PP2 running same setup so I knew what "right" should feel like.

If manual and you're swapping master, get a Auto PP Master and run the clutch line to a separate GM reservoir. I just zip tied it to the Auto PP reservoir. Works great.

The inconsistency almost leads me to believe it's the PP setup is more prone to knock back?

 

[djcodeman]

I'll probably be taking my brembos off and putting them up for sale later this year. PP1 6 pot brembos. Everything works fine, just got another set powdercoated.

 

[Howitzer]

My variables are GLOC R18's, Motul 600, no splash shields, PP undertray, and Vorshlag air deflectors.

I'm a left foot braker whenever possible so I'm on the brakes faster and harder often with throttle overlap. Pedal travel was inconsistent. I swapped the PP Master. Pedal travel got consistent and firm, but booster response on application and release was inconsistent. I swapped to the PP booster and all was good in the world again.

I came from a 2019 PP2 running same setup so I knew what "right" should feel like.

If manual and you're swapping master, get a Auto PP Master and run the clutch line to a separate GM reservoir. I just zip tied it to the Auto PP reservoir. Works great.

The inconsistency almost leads me to believe it's the PP setup is more prone to knock back?

Ah, very interesting. I'll have to pay more attention to brake pedal consistency this year. I haven't noticed anything obvious yet. You are running more aggressive pads than I and probably better tires too.

Like you though, I also have the PP undertray and splitter, vorshlag air deflectors and also running motul 600 brake fluid. But for pads I'm running carbotech X12's up front and X10's rear with some 340tw tires. I'm planning on moving to a wider and stickier tire this year though so I wouldn't be surprised if a few other things rear their little heads with this along with the harder to obtain driver mod.

 

[69boss]

How much did you end up paying for your brembos?

 

[munizfire]

How much did you end up paying for your brembos?

I think it was 480 for calipers, pads & rotors

 

[69boss]

I think it was 480 for calipers, pads & rotors

Man that’s a great deal. We’re they red? I got used black ones for like $550 lol

 

[munizfire]

Man that’s a great deal. We’re they red? I got used black ones for like $550 lol

Nah
Regular black.
The dealership ended up ordering Explorer calipers (non-brembo, hence the price). But that same week I got a set from FB marketplace; really good condition, low mileage.

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