NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Yes, good info.! I do have .250 spacers to compensate for the angular offset, especially since I lowered my engine 1/4” with the Steeda adj. motor mounts. That’s also a reason why I installed the Hitmaster clutch slipper system on the car. Taking as much shock out of the drivetrain as possible is always going to be helpful.Yep, I read that thread and there are a number of other really good threads on M6G that @GregO pointed me toward as I was doing research and spending time under my car noting runout, angular offset, etc. I really wanted my Steeda shaft to work, because as it is, my car looks like Steeda threw up on it (every upgrade on my car is from Steeda), so in the beginning, I thought it had a good chance of working, which it did until I did a burn out. Problem is, there are inherent issues from Ford, which they "solved" with the two-piece, non-balanced shaft that a lot of us have worked hard to replace.
In my opinion, your Steeda shaft stands a far greater chance of being successful if:
Of course, this won't deal with the inability of the material used by Spicer to handle torsional loads, so to keep it all running true, you'll have to grandma the car around town.
- you use transmission spacers to deal with the angular offset
- either remove your current pinion flange (will need a new install kit), or purchase a new pinion flange kit (M-4851-M8A)
- take your Steeda shaft and pinion flange to a reputable drive shaft shop and have it balanced as an assembly. This means your shaft and pinion flange will be indexed properly, no different than the two-piece is now.
- Prior to balancing the assembly, the faces of the drive shaft flange and pinion flange will need to be trued perpendicularly to the axial centerline so these parts run true as a mated assembly.
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