Another engine oil thread ... What do you use?

[DanielLD]

They don't have a listing for HD 5w30. Im not running 5w40 til the built engine and turbo goes in

http://renewablelube.com/store/inde...t&product_id=221&search=5W30&description=true

Sponsored

 

[mustang_guy]

http://renewablelube.com/store/inde...t&product_id=221&search=5W30&description=true

.....:doh:

 

[mustang_guy]

Spoke with Terry he echoed RLI statement and threw in some free advice. He suggests everyone stick with RLi HD versions and hinted at the fact that there is a new oil coming out that he thinks could be better once he tests it from a new company
Mmp or mmr or something or other.

 

[GrabberBlue5oh]

Just did my first oil change at 800 miles in my 17 GT PP. Swapped it out for mobile 1 as I've used it in many other cars with Blackstone reports to back it up. I'll prob switch between mobile 1 and Castrol edge as I've also had Blackstone reports on that as well, depending on what's on sale at my local parts store.

 

[DanielLD]

Just did my first oil change at 800 miles in my 17 GT PP. Swapped it out for mobile 1 as I've used it in many other cars with Blackstone reports to back it up. I'll prob switch between mobile 1 and Castrol edge as I've also had Blackstone reports on that as well, depending on what's on sale at my local parts store.

Switching back and forth between oils isn't the greatest idea.

As for this engine, if I had to choose an off the shelf oil from AutoZone, I'd run the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and skip the Castrol.

In regards to Blackstone, they are highly inaccurate and seriously misguide people. I've done 30-35 Blackstone comparisons back to back now and they always come out with the same problems. Some of the interpretations or comments they add have been very wrong. I would take anything from Blackstone with a grain of salt. If you can post your UOA from Blackstone I can show you why.

In regards to Terry, yes, but I'm not sure about that. I've been scoring the US looking for an oil that was better than the BioSyn. I've been testing a bunch of oils on customer vehicles and did find some interesting oils, nothing close to the BioSyn though.

 

[Roh92cp]

I'll give him a call, interested in seeing UOA from a decent lab though

Did you ever talk with Brian at BND or look into his oil?

 

[DanielLD]

Did you ever talk with Brian at BND or look into his oil?

I did, and I'm waiting on results back from an engine soon. I'm always hoping I'll stumble onto something new that works well.

On a side note. I'm on two other forums every once in a while and I'll get questions, etc. It always baffles me how people will buy $1,000 brake pads and $2,500 paint upgrades, but when you tell them a quality oil is around $10/quart and can't be bought at a parts store, they start talking about how finances are bad lately, this month's bonus didn't come as planned, etc. Lol.

 

[Roh92cp]

I did, and I'm waiting on results back from an engine soon. I'm always hoping I'll stumble onto something new that works well.

What was your impression of Brian. He is quite a silver tounged salesman, but he is also the chemical engineer and passionate about his stuff. I just done know enough about chemicals to keep up with his lingo.

 

[GrabberBlue5oh]

Switching back and forth between oils isn't the greatest idea.

As for this engine, if I had to choose an off the shelf oil from AutoZone, I'd run the Mobil 1 Extended Performance and skip the Castrol.

In regards to Blackstone, they are highly inaccurate and seriously misguide people. I've done 30-35 Blackstone comparisons back to back now and they always come out with the same problems. Some of the interpretations or comments they add have been very wrong. I would take anything from Blackstone with a grain of salt. If you can post your UOA from Blackstone I can show you why.

In regards to Terry, yes, but I'm not sure about that. I've been scoring the US looking for an oil that was better than the BioSyn. I've been testing a bunch of oils on customer vehicles and did find some interesting oils, nothing close to the BioSyn though.

meh..oil is oil. Any quality synthetic will suffice. As an ASE master certified tech, I stay on top of my oil changes (3-4K miles) so either route I should be fine. I just prefer mobile one and Castrol edge. I have access to Sunoco synthetic in bulk at work for free but I'd rather put something out of the bottle in it.

 

[DanielLD]

What was your impression of Brian. He is quite a silver tounged salesman, but he is also the chemical engineer and passionate about his stuff. I just done know enough about chemicals to keep up with his lingo.

lol, I think everyone in some fundamental aspect is a salesman, myself included. If you have a quality product or service, it's really not so much a sale but rather helping someone else. At least in my view point.

He seemed nice and I liked him, we didn't get to speak much but I'll let the UOA speak for the product.

 

[DanielLD]

meh..oil is oil. Any quality synthetic will suffice. As an ASE master certified tech, I stay on top of my oil changes (3-4K miles) so either route I should be fine. I just prefer mobile one and Castrol edge. I have access to Sunoco synthetic in bulk at work for free but I'd rather put something out of the bottle in it.

While I definitely respect your certification, I have found the opposite. I've done many dyno runs back to back in climate controlled facilities with all variables controlled, oil is not oil. I've done more UOA than I can remember and there is a noticeable difference. A higher quality oil will stop deposits from forming on the valves and many more things. Something I'm sure we can all agree is nasty to clean when you open them and nothing you want in the engine! That's just one example.

I definitely understand you have preferences, but what are they based on? Something I'm sure you experience is a customer who complains of a noise but can't quantify even a basic area from where it comes from. Sometimes they're legitimate, sometimes the person overthought a typical sound but it's very hard to tell if they can't quantify the premise.

Running a quality oil not only protects the engine during redline, it reduces power loss over time and increases efficiency. Lots of guys here and other forums complaining about going to a 40/50 weight, yet few ask why not run a thinner oil with a higher VI. Viscosity Index is an oil's ability to stay in grade as the temperature rises. So you can have a xW-50 but since the VI is almost always low, it'll pop like a bubble and won't protect at all. It will actually increase friction and wear. Or you can have a 20/30 weight with a super high VI that will outperform the 50 weight and even a 60 weight.

 

[GrabberBlue5oh]

While I definitely respect your certification, I have found the opposite. I've done many dyno runs back to back in climate controlled facilities with all variables controlled, oil is not oil. I've done more UOA than I can remember and there is a noticeable difference. A higher quality oil will stop deposits from forming on the valves and many more things. Something I'm sure we can all agree is nasty to clean when you open them and nothing you want in the engine! That's just one example.

I definitely understand you have preferences, but what are they based on? Something I'm sure you experience is a customer who complains of a noise but can't quantify even a basic area from where it comes from. Sometimes they're legitimate, sometimes the person overthought a typical sound but it's very hard to tell if they can't quantify the premise.

Running a quality oil not only protects the engine during redline, it reduces power loss over time and increases efficiency. Lots of guys here and other forums complaining about going to a 40/50 weight, yet few ask why not run a thinner oil with a higher VI. Viscosity Index is an oil's ability to stay in grade as the temperature rises. So you can have a xW-50 but since the VI is almost always low, it'll pop like a bubble and won't protect at all. It will actually increase friction and wear. Or you can have a 20/30 weight with a super high VI that will outperform the 50 weight and even a 60 weight.

At Hyundai (where I work) most of their engines are GDI. And man let me tell you, the back of the intake valves on a GDI engine gets NASTY. What oil do you run in your mustang? I do agree that viscosity index is important, as most oils will thin out as they get hot. A quality synthetic should hold up better than a blend or Dino oil.

 

[Roh92cp]

lol, I think everyone in some fundamental aspect is a salesman, myself included. If you have a quality product or service, it's really not so much a sale but rather helping someone else. At least in my view point.

He seemed nice and I liked him, we didn't get to speak much but I'll let the UOA speak for the product.

Looking forward to those results, and thanks for digging into this. Have you ever tested the Quaker State Ultimate Durability full synthetic or have any opinions in it?

 

[DanielLD]

At Hyundai (where I work) most of their engines are GDI. And man let me tell you, the back of the intake valves on a GDI engine gets NASTY. What oil do you run in your mustang? I do agree that viscosity index is important, as most oils will thin out as they get hot. A quality synthetic should hold up better than a blend or Dino oil.

Sold the mustang! I have a few cars (new & old). On my RC F, which I floor daily many times over, I've been running the BioSyn HDMO Low Ash with a WIX XP filter and E15 gasahol and new air filters every 10K. I do 50,000 miles a year, so I see results pretty quickly.

Yes, these modern engines since they have to run hot for emissions are always overfueled. Running an oil that increases the ring seal, reducing the fuel dilution in the oil + quality fuel(shell, BP, Exxon) will stop the deposits from forming. If you can get E85 in your car, highly recommended as it leaves no deposits and will clean the gasoline deposits left behind.

Problem is those off the shelf oils are barely better than cheap blends and will lead to nasty deposits. You have to get the high mileage versions or extended mileage versions to get the better stuff. That's the tricks they play, early in an engines life they can get away with cheaper stuff, then later on switch to the high mileage because it'll help XXXX. BS it just has the additives they should have had in the first place but now the oil companies know the engines need it.

I think the 2018 guys will probably not get E85. Ford has followed Lexus' footsteps in regards to their engine design for a long time now. No one has made an E85 system for the RC F, because it is very expensive and few would likely purchase it. Sucks because I really want a tad bit more power and just a clean engine. Even Ford on their website lists E85 as a "cleaner burning fuel than gasoline".

 

[DanielLD]

Looking forward to those results, and thanks for digging into this. Have you ever tested the Quaker State Ultimate Durability full synthetic or have any opinions in it?

Never tested their oil. Those guys and Penn Grade are on my list here pretty soon.

Grabber, how much is an intake cleaning at the dealer? $500? I once had a BMW guy tell me the RLI was too expensive but then he went on to tell me how he goes to the dealer for a walnut blast every 30,000 @$750 per service! Lol.

Sponsored