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Another broken Voodoo

key01

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Well, spend lots of time here and read up then. No stone has been unturned and the failure rate is like 1-2% .
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GTthree50

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Same thing with the gen V Viper. It is suggested you do an oil change as soon as you can if you bought your car new. Hell, I would do it new or used.
I did this when my car was new. First change at 100 miles again at 500 and again at 1000. My personal prerogative to do as much as I could to ensure trouble free ownership. Oddly I posted that around that time and got pretty handily flamed here by many who thought it was stupid. Whatever, my car, my money and my peace of mind. Lessons learned from decades of being a gear head.
 

Carpenater

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526 HRSE

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Nobody is ever going to admit that they are the reason the engine has failed, but it's likely the case more often than not.
 

johnny1

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Nobody is ever going to admit that they are the reason the engine has failed, but it's likely the case more often than not.
I don't think that holds true. Theres some that did put posts on here that were just normal driving at various speeds and the engine went down. Theres no rhyme or reason, no matter the year, how driven etc. No way of knowing actual percentage of failures and cause since Ford isn't talking. The plus big time is they will give you a new engine if your still under warranty. So there is no actual way of knowing if driver cause or engine defect since there are some of those that actually post on forums that were just driving down the street and not driving hell out of it (which with this engine once broke in according to owners manual should not be a problem). But from posts there seem to be several replacements due to getting below that magic number Ford came up with of burning a quart of oil in less than 500 miles, which is/isn't engine failure depending how you want to interpret it. I consider that engine failure.
 

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anacar312

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My apologies in advance if it can be found elsewhere or on another thread... but are there posted procedures or recommendations for a new GT350 / Voodoo engine? Been poking around a bit on that forum and can’t really find anything specific to the GT350 break-in procedure. Thank you in advance!
 

DrumReaper

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My apologies in advance if it can be found elsewhere or on another thread... but are there posted procedures or recommendations for a new GT350 / Voodoo engine? Been poking around a bit on that forum and can’t really find anything specific to the GT350 break-in procedure. Thank you in advance!
Follow the owner’s manual and you will be fine. If you have a suspect valve, no matter the break-in procedure the valve will die.

Just follow the manual and you should be fine.
 

lenFeb

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My apologies in advance if it can be found elsewhere or on another thread... but are there posted procedures or recommendations for a new GT350 / Voodoo engine? Been poking around a bit on that forum and can’t really find anything specific to the GT350 break-in procedure. Thank you in advance!
From GT350 User manual (page 26):
upload_2020-9-2_12-28-4.png
 

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anacar312

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Follow the owner’s manual and you will be fine. If you have a suspect valve, no matter the break-in procedure the valve will die.

Just follow the manual and you should be fine.
Thank you! Of course I would follow said manual when the car arrives (week 3 of waiting for a VIN) but was just wondering if there was any sage advice for a noob (soon to be) GT350 owner such as myself. It’s very important to me they this car get the very best... it’s basically a rolling tribute to my late brother. He would love this car. He had a 66 in the late 90s.... and subsequently several SVT products... hence when procuring a HEP R became an actual opportunity I had to jump on it (of course, after making sure the wife was on board).
 

Rusherific

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Thank you! Of course I would follow said manual when the car arrives (week 3 of waiting for a VIN) but was just wondering if there was any sage advice for a noob (soon to be) GT350 owner such as myself. It’s very important to me they this car get the very best... it’s basically a rolling tribute to my late brother. He would love this car. He had a 66 in the late 90s.... and subsequently several SVT products... hence when procuring a HEP R became an actual opportunity I had to jump on it (of course, after making sure the wife was on board).
While I agree with those saying just read the manual, I think it's worth clarifying a bit since you will read a lot of crazy stuff on here, including everyone's special and unique interpretations of what the manual says, when it really doesn't say a whole lot. Let's quickly review:

In the manual:
-vary your engine speed
-avoid extended wide open throttle maneuvers

Not in the manual:
-Limiting RPMs
-avoiding wide open throttle entirely, for even short periods of time
-driving it like a hoveround
-putting the car on casters and pushing it to your local cars and coffee just to be safe

***You can bet your first born that if the engineers and warranty bean counters at Ford thought anything else was bad for your engine during break-in they would have said so, these are the same people that feel the need to warn you not to adjust the steering wheel while driving, and dedicate two entire pages to checking your coolant, their job is to assume we're all knuckle-dragging idiots***

And after 100 miles just avoid trackdays, that's it. That's the break-in procedure.

Your only job during break-in is to seat the piston rings. This is a race engine. Use the rev range, accelerate and decelerate frequently.

I found that setting the car to sport helped with break-in, because normal mode feels more like an automatic, the car doesn't slow down much at all off-throttle without using the brakes.

Really the only other important thing to remember, which applies all the time: always wait for the oil to hit normal operating temps, around 200 before pushing the engine! Luckily you will have a handy gauge for that right smack in the middle of the dash.
 
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anacar312

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While I agree with those saying just read the manual, I think it's worth clarifying a bit since you will read a lot of crazy stuff on here, including everyone's special and unique interpretations of what the manual says, when it really doesn't say a whole lot. Let's quickly review:

In the manual:
-vary your engine speed
-avoid extended wide open throttle maneuvers

Not in the manual:
-Limiting RPMs
-avoiding wide open throttle entirely, for even short periods of time
-driving it like a hoveround
-putting the car on casters and pushing it to your local cars and coffee just to be safe

***You can bet your first born that if the engineers and warranty bean counters at Ford thought anything else was bad for your engine during break-in they would have said so, these are the same people that feel the need to warn you not to adjust the steering wheel while driving, and dedicate two entire pages to checking your coolant, their job is to assume we're all knuckle-dragging idiots***

And after 100 miles just avoid trackdays, that's it. That's the break-in procedure.

Your only job during break-in is to seat the piston rings. This is a race engine. Use the rev range, accelerate and decelerate frequently.

I found that setting the car to sport helped with break-in, because normal mode feels more like an automatic, the car doesn't slow down much at all off-throttle without using the brakes.

Really the only other important thing to remember, which applies all the time: always wait for the oil to hit normal operating temps, around 200 before pushing the engine! Luckily you will have a handy gauge for that right smack in the middle of the dash.
Thank you Rusherific!!
 

Rapid Red

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To add 6 speed is a natural for break in......
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