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Angela III - Daily Driver Build Thread

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I was wondering about the sequential lights from CJPP myself. Glad to see you did them and so far so good. Is it too much to ask if you can show a gif from the front? With the headlights on or off and the turn signals? Thanks!
No problem, here you go! I'll try to get one at night too.

20200224_175706.gif


Edit: Updated for a better gif with less glare. FYI the headlight DRLs aren't flickering, that's just a digital camera effect. Also, here's a front shot with the lights on:

20200224_174516.jpg
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Who's ready for math class?

Today I checked my alignment in preparation for throwing on some subframe alignment dowels and bushings. I figured I could at least check how it changes and maybe figure out how to adjust later. If all else fails I can take it to a shop.

I purchased a cheap level and a small metal ruler, both of which I have needed for awhile now anyway. Camber is easy to check with these tools. With the car on a flat surface set the level vertical next to the wheel. Pick two points at the top and bottom of the wheel, I chose the very outside of the rim next to the tire (the further apart the points are the more accurate, but don't use anything on the tire itself as that can deform). Measure the distance from the level to the wheel at those two points and the vertical distance between those two points.

20200228_172500.jpg


The bottom measurement I have designated "x1", the top is "x2", and the vertical is "y".

20200229_205518.jpg


Now for some grade school trigonometry! Remember SOH CAH TOA? Well we just need TOA, or;

tan(Theta)=o/a
Where:
Theta = the angle
o = the opposite side length
a = the adjacent side length

I guess my phone doesn't have the "theta" symbol so I'll have to type it out... it's the 0 with the line through it for the uninitiated. We just need to translate our measurements to these values, which would look something like this:

20200229_205618.jpg


So a = y
And o = x2 - x1
Then Theta = tan^-1 [(x2 - x1)/y].

Easy! For anybody that is staring blank faced at these last few paragraphs and has no idea what this all means, we Engineers have an inside secret for doing complicated calculations that the general public may not know. It's called Google. Just insert x2 - x1 as "side a" and y as "side b".

I used the calculator on my phone which conveniently has a tangent function. My calcs will spit out a positive number which actually amounts to a negative camber, which is what we want. If you get a negative number then your camber is actually positive. I seem to like making things intentionally confusing.

As an example, these are my measurements for the front left wheel.

x1 = 10/32"
x2 = 7/8" = 28/32"
y = 20-1/8" = 161/8"

Theta = tan^-1 [(28/32 - 10/32) / (161/8)]
= 1.6°

Measuring camber is easy. Measuring toe gets a little more complicated. We don't have something as convenient as gravity to help set the "y" edge, as now it's horizontal. Something needs to be set up to create an even rectangle around the car, and that takes some time and care to get right. I found a setup that I could do with some thread and 4 Jack stands, although there are other methods.

I set one Jack stand at each corner of the car and strung the thread between the two on each side. I set the stands to 5 clicks up on the front and 8 on the back so that the string was even with the middle of the wheels, and I then measured and set each stand so that the front two and the back two were the same distance apart, and the two on each side were the same distance apart. This creates a 4 sided polygon with equal sides at the front and back, as well as equal sides side to side.

20200228_180842.jpg


But we don't want just any polygon, we need a pure rectangle with 90° angles. By measuring from the string to the wheel cap of each wheel, I steadily started adjusting until the back wheels were the same distance from the string. For the back wheels I measured to the middle of the pony as this made a perpendicular measurement.

20200228_203458.jpg


Then I adjusted until the front wheels were the same distance from the string as each other. Next I remeasured the distance between the stands and adjusted. I went back and forth until each measurement on each side was equal, which took a bit of time with fractional movements here and there. Just remember, if one side is more than the other by 1/8" you want to move that side in by half of that (1/16") and then move the other side out by the same amount.

I then compared my numbers to the wheelbase specs of the car. The rear wheel base is 64.9" while the front is 62.3". That means I should have a difference from front to back of 1.3" on each side. I was pretty close, but I adjusted a little bit to get those numbers.

In the end I ended up with these measurements, which might be a good starting point for anybody with Performance Pack wheels:

Back wheel measurement : 2"
Front wheel measurement : 3-5/16"

All measurements should be as exact as you can get them, even 1/32" can change your calculations.

Now that this is set up, the measurements are the same as the camber except x1 is the back of the rim and x2 is the front. A positive output means toe in while negative is toe out.

I didn't measure front caster yet, it isn't adjustable from the factory anyway. I imagine that you just need to take the same kind of measurements off of the strut to calc it though.

Now that we have our numbers, we want to analyze them and compare to ideal settings. Ford's recommended settings are pretty wide, allowing for everything from toe in to toe out. I'm going to compare mine to BMR's suggested settings which are much tighter. The more important thing to check is that the sides are even. If your left is toe in and your right is toe out you might be technically in Ford specs, but the alignment will be wacky. Here are the BMR specs:

street-handling-bmr-kelly-jpg.jpg


And here are my results:

Left Front:
Camber = 1.60°
Toe = 0.00°

Right Front:
Camber = 0.89°
Toe = 0.00°

Left Rear:
Camber = 2.30°
Toe = 0.18°

Right Rear:
Camber = 1.25°
Toe = 0.18°

Now, my car may have hit a curb or two being a daily driver, including a pretty hard hit to the front right when I was young and stupid (I was 37, kids will be kids). I'm seeing two wheels (LF and RR) that look pretty dead on to BMR's specs, as well as some even toe on all 4 wheels. I also see two where the camber is a bit out of wack. I will look at fixing that after I do the subframe bushings.

Now I at least have a baseline for when I adjust the subframe and that changes the alignment. Hopefully I can fix that front right wheel as well.
20200228_203438.jpg
 
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I enjoy your build thread, and excellent choice in color (Grabber Blue :) ). Based on your review and write-up I ordered the turn signals from CJ Pony Parts as well. As noted they arrive directly from Winjet and are a fairly straight forward install. I think they look better than some of the more expensive ones, and no hyperflashing... Thanks for the tip!
 
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Straightening out the Subframe

After the fantastic positive effects of the Subframe Braces I wanted to further lock down the subframe. I was planning on getting Steeda's offerings as I liked how integrated into the subframe they looked compared to BMR's, but I did my due diligence and looked around for all possible options. That's when I found that UPR Products has a very similar (and possibly patent violating? Sorry Steeda) IRS Subframe Bushing Lockout Kit as well as an IRS Subframe Alignment Kit on sale for a very good price.

The alignment kit looks exactly like Steeda's and is also made of Delrin, but the Bushings have slightly different shapes, are black coated to match the OE subframe, and are made of 7075 aluminum as opposed to 6061 like Steeda's. 7075 is quite a bit stronger, but I doubt that the difference matters much in this application so I wouldn't say that makes them better. There weren't any reviews on these versions since they are new. UPR's original bushings were a much lower grade of aluminum, but they apparently improved the quality and released these ones. They looked functional enough and the price was right, and since I had no experience with UPR but had heard mostly good things I decided to give them a try.

They came quickly like most parts do lately as fast shipping is now an expected perk. I like the look of these, with the black and silver coloring. I know that only the black will be visible once installed, but they're pretty anyway.

20200304_180642.jpg


Both were extremely light so I weighed them out of curiosity. I was going to add a grand total of 16.3 ounces (or about 1 pound) to the car. It shouldn't affect handling negatively.

20200306_200211.jpg


20200306_200359.jpg


Now for the install. UPR sent instructions for installing each kit, but since I was doing both I kind of had to mix and match the steps. They were mostly the same, the biggest difference being that the bushings don't require the whole subframe to be loosened at once while the alignment dowels do. I began by removing the Subframe Braces as they were in the way. I then put a Jack under the subframe for support and began loosening the 2 big blue bolts at the back and then taking out the 2 big blue bolts up front as well as the smaller bolts that hold the plate on.

20200313_174103.jpg


I then lowered the Jack a little bit to allow the subframe to drop so I could get the top bushings on.

20200313_174156.jpg


The bushings are shaped to fit onto the OE rubber bushings and fill in the gaps, they just slide into place.

20200313_175218.jpg


Looking into the hole underneath shows how well aligned it was from the factory, you can see the markings around the bolt hole that show it was a bit off center.

20200313_175749.jpg


Using some cheap pry bars I got from Harbor Freight allowed me to easily shift the subframe closer to center. I just jammed it through the hole above and into the bolt hole and gave it a good shove to the side. Then the blue bolts with the alignment dowels added onto them slid in nicely (don't forget the plate!). I then tightened them enough to leave a bit of gap so that I could adjust the back end as well and then removed the rear 2 big blue bolts.

The top bushings are just like the ones on the front but the bottoms are a bit different. They split into two peices and bolt together, and need to be pushed in from the side rather than underneath. The small piece is a real pain to get on as the fit is tight and you can't push them on directly like the bigger piece, they have to be slid in to the side and pushed around because there is a large piece of subframe blocking direct access. I applied some liberal WD-40 (grease will work better, but this was handy), pushed the small piece as far as I could get it, then used a crescent wrench to twist it around the curve. I scratched up the nice black coating a bit but they got in there. The crescent wrench was useful for the big pieces too, but they just required squeezing into place, no twisting necessary. The kit came with the appropriate sized allen key for the bolts (like I need more allen keys...). I used a same size deep socket as a handle, which worked nicely. Just be careful not to drop it into the Lower Control Arm, it can be difficult to fish out...

Now the hard part is done.

20200313_191307.jpg


After inserting the blue bolts and dowels in I jacked the subframe back up and tightened up the front bolts. The rear subframe still hung down quite a bit and I didn't want to put the brunt of the subframe weight on the bolts as I threaded them so I shifted the Jack further back and this allowed me to get the back end all the way up. The last two blue bolts went in tight, all got torqued, and the braces went back on. I then dropped the car and took it for a quick ride just to let the suspension settle so that I could check to see how this affected my alignment. I didn't do any real testing yet just in case the alignment was way out of wack. Here's the new alignment:

Left Front:
Camber = 1.60°
Toe = 0.00°

Right Front:
Camber = 1.07°
Toe = 0.00°

Left Rear:
Camber = 2.10°
Toe = 0.09°

Right Rear:
Camber = 1.15°
Toe = 0.18°

I have calculated that the error in my camber measurements is up to 0.18° while the error in toe measurements is up to 0.09°, so these changes are all within my margin of error. It's actually pretty nice to see how overall consistent my calculations are. The back probably did change a little so that explains that difference, but obviously the front should not have been affected so the slight difference in right camber is just my measurement error.

These numbers still look OK, although I do want to even out the camber like I said before. This is easily drivable so that's a project for next time.

Since installing these I have been working from home to help flatten the curve. It's working out pretty well as I can still effectively coordinate with my team through Microsoft Teams and my laptop is powerful enough to run all of the software that I need. The only downside is that I don't have a reason to drive every day. I'm trying to just go for a drive now and then just to get out of the house though. I haven't tested this new mod as much as I would like, but from what I have noticed the car seems to track very straight now. The Subframe Braces had made a major improvement to this, but these bushings seem to be the final piece to really lock down the back end. Previously, under a heavy launch, if the tires began to lose traction the rear end would start to shift to the side. Now I can make the tires spin while launching and the car keeps going straight. I'm not going to do that much since tires aren't cheap, but it feels good to have that kind of control. They also don't seem to negatively impact ride quality, so I'm overall happy with this mod. I feel even more confident with my car now.
 
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Fixing the hood flutter... With Prejudice

I'm sure in all of the pictures of the front of my car you have noticed the significant hood gap on the right side and have been kind enough not to say anything. Thank you. This is due to me having to adjust the rubber bumpers under the hood way up to keep the aluminum hood from fluttering terribly at high speeds. If I set them so that the hood is flush then the hood flutters very unnervingly at highway speeds. I once got the car up to 150mph on the track and the hood looked like it was going to literally fold in half and fly off. I have since adjusted the bumpers and this has reduced the hood flutter, but even at just highway speeds it still flutters enough to make me worry. My hood struts helped a little, but still not enough. I also tried shimming the bumper height to get rid of the gap, but while reducing it the gap was still there and it still fluttered. So now I'm down to my last resort, the one thing that will without a doubt get rid of the hood flutter once and for all.

Drake Muscle Cars billet and stainless steel modern Hood Pin kit. That's right, I'm locking this bitch down. CJ Pony Parts had the best price for the ones that I liked best. I opted for the more classic looking hood pins rather than the modern quick latch ones because A: I kind of like the old school look, B: They're cheaper, and C: They require less precise cutting of the hood, making it easier to install and less likely that I will badly screw it up. Since I'm doing something crazy like drilling holes into my hood C was very important for my own confidence.

Since Harbor Freight is always having sales, I was able to get a set of 3 step drill bits for super cheap. They're great for getting cheap tools that I don't care will break eventually, although my experience so far with their tools has been very solid for the price. I wouldn't buy expensive heavy duty power tools from them, but hand tools and even light duty power tools are just fine.

The supplied instructions say to disconnect the MAF sensor and remove the intake housing cover. I could not for the life of me figure out why. Drake Muscle Cars says that it is to get it out of the way, but it's not at all in the way. The intake resonator is in the way at one point, but I don't know of an easy way to remove that. I kept the MAF and intake intact and had no issues.

I removed the hood latch and let it hang to allow for easier opening and closing while making adjustments. I would actually recommend removing the hook on the hood instead. Once the hood pins are on they will have to be removed to get the radiator cover off, so I ended up having to work through the little hole in the cover to get the latch back on, which was a bit of a pain.

The pins go into existing holes at both sides of the radiator cover where the cover push pins currently go. This is the left side one in the middle of the picture after removing the cover.

20200321_124558.jpg


The current holes are too small for the pins, so I used a step drill bit to open it up to 1/2". The bit cut through the steel like butter.

20200321_134034.jpg


I thought this would be the hard part of setting the pins. I was wrong. There is a bunch of plastic just under the hole that needs to be removed for the pins to go in properly. Perhaps with the right tools this would be much easier, but all I had for the job was my Dremel which was difficult to get at the right angles. I had to use the extension that came with the tool for better maneuverability and came in with a cutting disc from behind and also from the side by feeding it underneath the plate next to it. This allowed me to make the major cuts and get most of what I needed off, but some was still left in the way that I couldn't get to. I then used the sanding wheel at high speed to sand/melt off the rest. This destroyed 4 sanding wheels between the two sides, but it got the job done.

20200321_134231.jpg


Not the cleanest, but nobody will ever see it under there.

The holes in the cover then need to be opened up as well and the cover goes back on. Squeezing the bottom nut into place underneath, the pins then screw into place and the nut on top gets tightened.

20200321_163847.jpg


Using a Sharpie I covered the top of the pins and carefully closed the hood onto them, applying enough pressure to leave a small black mark where they contact. Now for the stressful part. Close my eyes and... no wait, better open my eyes and... drill. I started with the smaller 1/2" step drill bit and went all the way through until it barely pierced the top layer of the hood. Once I closed the hood I could see that I didn't drill at the right angle and the new hole in the top layer was about 1/4" to the side of where it needed to be. Fortunately, the pins allow for a 1" hole so I just found the center and drilled there until I had a 1/2" hole that merged with the old hole. I then used the 3/4" step bit to open them up further. The instructions say to open then up to 7/8", and closing the hood didn't quite let the pins through yet, so I just opened up the holes using the drill bit and pushing it to the side. This made the holes a bit irregular, but again, nobody is going to see them.

20200321_170857.jpg


The top layer of the hood is actually 2 layers of aluminum with some kind of filling material in it. I cleaned some of it out after taking this picture.

20200321_171000.jpg


I then closed the hood and set the pin plates on top, marking the location of the holes with a fine tip Sharpie. With a small regular drill bit I put in some guide holes for the screws.

20200321_173619.jpg


The plates then screwed into place, covering that ugly hole. It then took some adjusting of the pins to get them at the right height so that they held the hood tight without being a pain to pull the holding pins out. I found the perfect level where the hood could be pressed down a bit to allow the holding pins to freely move in and out, but when letting go of the hood it locks into place nicely.

I figured I would try out the lanyards even though I felt that I didn't need them, so I secured them to the corners of the radiator cover.

20200322_142206.jpg


The center of the hood still has some pinch even though I adjusted the latch up as much as it went, it just seems to rest like that. The sides are almost even with each other now, the right side gap is reduced significantly like I had hoped. One test at Arizona highway speeds and the hood doesn't flutter at all! I noticed some slight vibration but that happens even at low speeds just from the bumps on the road. Once I finished the test I found that the lanyards had moved quite a bit, which means they are probably whipping around on the hood and may eventually do some minor damage. I have taken them off now, but here is a picture with then on.

20200322_175931.jpg
 

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Sproing!

While ordering the hood pins I decided to throw a Steeda 35 lb/in Clutch Spring Assist into the basket to see what all the hype is about. I have never had an issue with the stock spring, but it seems a bit strong so I could see how a lighter spring could improve the feel and accuracy of the pedal.

The instructions recommended using a set of locking needlenose pliers to get the stock spring off. Since I didn't have one and didn't feel like buying one just for this purpose, I tried a few things first and if all else failed I could borrow them from a friend.

First try: Regular needlenose pliers.
Result: Fail.
So the main issue here is that you have to use one hand to hold down the clutch pedal, which requires a good amount of force while lying on your back in the footwell, while simultaneously using the pliers with your other hand to squeeze the stock 185 lb/in spring. Suffice it to say that's not easy. The spring barely even compressed, and the thin needlenose I had couldn't get enough purchase on the spring to do anything of note.

Second try: Regular pliers.
Result: Fail.
Same issues here. I was able to get a better grip on the spring with these, but still the spring wouldn't budge. Just not enough leverage.

Third try: Crescent wrench.
Result: Success!
Learning from the issues above I figured I just needed good grip and leverage, so the big ass crescent wrench came out. Once I got it into place it took one squeeze and the spring compressed enough for me to slide it out of place. The instructions say to twist the top piece out, but that assumes you are using locking pliers and have a hand available. Since I didn't, I just squeezed and then slid it off of the pin at the bottom.

I was pretty surprised to learn that the spring perch isn't actually secured to anything, it just stays in place from the force of the spring. Once off, the top and bottom of the perch just fall apart and the spring can come off. Here's the perch, the thick stock spring, the new Steeda spring, and the successful crescent wrench.

20200403_181436.jpg


The stock spring is super stiff. Putting my palms on both sides and pressing in barely makes it budge, no wonder it took so much force to get off. The Steeda spring is much lighter and easily compressible by hand. The spring just sits in place between the two pieces of the perch and it easily pops into place in the clutch.

20200403_181912.jpg


Even with the failed tries all of this only took 15 minutes. On my first test drive it seemed that while pressing in the clutch didn't seem any more difficult, releasing it seemed smoother and more controllable. The stock spring would increase force as you lifted, but this spring seems to have consistent force throughout. The only negative is that the pedal is a bit loose at the top. This has always been there, even with the stock spring the top 1/2" or so would compress fairly easily with minimal force. With the spring off the pedal doesn't fully lift this last 1/2", so this is a feature of the pedal/clutch itself. With the Steeda spring the pedal does lift the full way on its own, but just tapping the pedal will move it. I don't think this will be an issue as I don't rest my foot on the clutch (like you shouldn't) and it doesn't seem to move on its own. I had read that stretching the spring to 3.25" from the original 2.5" could help with this and the overall feel, so I tried it. I was able to stretch it but it just went back to 2.5". I'm not sure if I'm supposed to stretch it enough so that it stays or if that's all I need to do, but I probably need a more heavy duty tool to get it to fully stretch.

I do think I like the feel better, but it's going to take some time to get used to since I've been on the stock spring so long. I feel that a slightly stiffer spring might be perfect, so if I have any issues with this one I might look into that.

Update: 2 months later and the looseness at the top of the pedal seems to have lessened, it now feels like it did with the old spring. The clutch is feeling much more natural now as well. It took a bit of time to settle in, but now that it has I like it quite a bit.
 
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My New Hobby

Carbon fiber. It's awesome. It's also expensive. For structural/mechanical pieces it's worth the price, but for aesthetics it's kind of hard to justify paying so much. But it can be done cheaper, it just requires a ton of time and patience. Working from home right now and not really going out much I have quite a bit of time, so I ordered a Carbon Fiber Part Wrapping Kit from Composite Envisions. The materials aren't very expensive, about $100 for enough to do several projects which would cost $800-$900 if I were to buy full carbon replacements. The kit came with the major things needed, I just needed some acetone for clean up and painter's tarp to protect my working surface.

My first project was a small one so that I could learn how to do it properly and so it won't be costly to replace if I really screwed up. The little triangle wind deflectors next to the side mirrors were perfect for my first attempts. Jamming a trim tool into the front ends they easily pop out of the clip.

20200412_183506.jpg


Following the steps and never having done this before, here are the results of my first attempt:

20200421_215912.jpg


I made a number of mistakes which I will detail as I go through the steps. Fortunately, with a razor and a flat head screw driver the bad attempt was fairly easily pried off in large chunks and I was able to start anew. Now for the second attempt, with lessons learned from the first.

I did this all on an old card table with a good lamp. A lamp with a good bright white bulb really helps to see all of the flaws (for better or worse). To keep the resin from sticking too much to the table I covered it in painter's tarp which is like $1 for a roll.

Before starting any work, you have to get your outfit together. Both the carbon fiber and the resin can cause reactions to bare skin and definitely to the eyes, so you want to protect yourself. None of this is heavily toxic so is safe to use indoors as long as it's well ventilated, but you still want to avoid excessive contact or a piece of carbon getting flung in your eye or in your lungs. I wore a long sleeve shirt, neoprene gloves, protective glasses, and a mask. Fortunately the kit comes with 8 pairs of neoprene gloves because good look finding any of those during COVID-19 season.

I cut pieces of the carbon fiber to cover the whole piece and leave a couple of inches of extra. You don't want to cut it too tight because the edges have nothing holding them together and will fray with handling, loosening the weave and even falling apart.

20200414_195352.jpg


I scuffed the pieces up with 80 grit sandpaper to give a rough surface for the resin to stick to. If the starting surface is too smooth the wet resin will just run off.

20200412_184419.jpg


A base coat of the epoxy resin needs to be dyed black and applied to the pieces. I found 1/2 fl. oz. of resin and 1/4 fl. oz. of hardener to be plenty to coat these small pieces. The kit comes with black dye, and a few drops was enough to make it thick black. You want the base black because the carbon fiber weave does have small gaps in it, so you don't want any color coming through that might ruin the look. Coat it nice and evenly until the whole piece is shiny and black again.

20200425_160505.jpg


Now for the first lesson in patience. Wait until it is tacky, which is dry enough not to smudge when touching but wet enough to still be sticky. This is supposed to take a few hours, but took 7-8 hours for this resin and the temperature of my work space. You just need to keep an eye on it and test it now and then, so definitely plan this for an open day. If you don't wait long enough the fiber won't stick very well, and if you wait too long it won't stick at all, so you have to get it when it's just right.

Once it is tacky the piece can be wrapped in carbon fiber. Starting with the largest area seems to work best, then wrap around edges and curves from there, pressing firmly down to make sure there are no bubbles underneath. The sharp corners took multiple folds to get it tight around the corner, but it needed care to ensure that the weave didn't separate around the corner and create a gap.

On my first attempt I then trimmed the edges to match the piece. This was a mistake. The ends frayed and separated and the corners in particular looked terrible. The edges also came unstuck from the piece. Here is the first attempt after a few coats of resin:

20200419_105650.jpg


Just terrible. On my second attempt I instead wrapped around the edges and taped to the back. This held everything nice and close to the piece, where it should be.

20200425_220441.jpg


I used duck duct tape (get it? Get it???) because it seemed like scotch or masking tape might not be strong enough. The duct tape was a bit hard to get off, but it sure worked.

20200425_220449.jpg


Then I just let it dry for awhile. From this point on the drying times don't need to be precise, they just need to be a minimum amount so they aren't wet anymore. Completely dry works just fine, so I let them sit overnight.

The next day I applied a clear layer on top and let it dry completely until the next day. At this point the fabric I wanted to keep was bound together by hard resin and would no longer fray, so I trimmed the excess off. This ended up being a bit difficult as the resin had seeped through the fabric and underneath the piece, making it solid about 1/2 inch beyond where I wanted to cut.

20200427_212056.jpg


This took a razor blade and time to cut it off, and was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the end results were excellent. I would rather do this with more work than the easy way I did the first time with poor results.

The next part gets repetitive. Add a coat then wait a day. Repeat. And repeat. And repeat until the resin looks smooth and no longer follows the contours of the weave.

20200503_161554.jpg


Reflecting a light off of it shows how smooth it is, there should be no tiny bumps in the reflection. I found that adding a layer, letting it dry for an hour, then adding a bit more worked nicely. If there were any bubbles when dry scraping them with 180 grit sandpaper would take them right off.

Once you have a fairly smooth surface appreciate the beautiful piece you made before you ruin it (temporarily). We want it even smoother, and sanding is the way to do it. First I cleared off any excess resin that had run around the bottom of the part. The kit comes with wax to keep the resin from sticking too much where you don't want it, but even where I didn't apply the wax the resin peeled off by getting a razor underneath it. Then, starting with 180 grit, I sanded as much as I could without getting too deep. I found that wet sanding worked nicely and kept the mess to a minimum, but you can dry sand if you want. You don't want to get down to the carbon fiber and ruin it, so if a portion isn't flat we will fix that later. This step is just to identify our problem spots so we can fill them in. These spots will now stand out as darker than the rest.

20200503_140220.jpg


Add some resin into the dark valleys and feel free to put a thin coat on the sanded areas too. It doesn't hurt to have a little extra resin, but too little will create problems. If you sand too deep you will be able to easily see the weave at the surface like this:

20200505_182652.jpg


Any more sanding here and I would have broken through and made a hole in the carbon, so definitely add a few coats to these areas before it's too late. After it dries, sand again and repeat adding resin and sanding until you get a nice evenly sanded surface.

20200504_180809.jpg


I then stepped up grits with 400 grit, 600 grit, and finally 800 grit, making the surface super smooth.

The final step is painting. Attempt #1 I tried the cheap way, using a can of "crystal clear" gloss lacquer from the local hardware store. It was yellow. After that was the point that I stripped down my first attempt and began anew.

Attempt #2 I tried SprayMax 2K Urethane Clear Coat, which is supposed to be THE stuff to use. The one downside is that it's one time use, so I would have to buy a new $20 can every time I did a project. This stuff dried nice and clear. The only problem is that I got one with a bum nozzle. Instead of spraying in any kind of pattern it just misted. Holding it 10" away from the part none of it actually made it TO the part, it just vaporized into a cloud which floated all around me. I had to hold it much closer to the part to get any coverage, and the result caused little bubbles all throughout the paint.

20200506_104351.jpg


I sanded it off and tried thinner coats, but the results were the same. This particular can was a bust. I sanded the rest of the paint off and added a very thin layer of resin on top for now. It won't have UV protection at the moment, but the car isn't outside very much with me working from home anyway. At least it's on my car and beautiful for now.

20200517_190450.jpg


I will continue to research other paint options and decide if I will try SprayMax again or something else, at which point I will protect it properly.

I expected it to be a very subtle change, but the carbon really pops even with such a small piece. I now definitely need to add more to even out the look...
 
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And now for something unique

One benefit to making your own carbon fiber parts is reduced cost (in exchange for heavy labor). The other benefit is that you can make something that isn't available on the market. My previous mustang had quarter window louvres that I loved, but I feel like louvres don't fit as well with the S550 body style, while scoops look pretty good. Unfortunately, nobody makes carbon fiber quarter window scoops, only louvres. So I decided to make some myself.

There are a few styles in the market that I like, but I settled on Cervini's Eleanor Style Quarter Window Scoops. I'm usually not a fan of Cervinis stuff as they tend to look bulky, but these look nice and elegant and flow with the curves of the car nicely. I also liked that they were actual scoops and not just pieces with plastic inserts to block the wind.

I found a used set from a user here on M6G (thanks @Davepurp!), who shipped it out to me quickly. He had vinyl wrapped it and offered to remove the vinyl, but I declined as I figured that seeing it as is could give me a few pointers on how best to wrap it myself. I could tell that Dave had some trouble with the indented portion at the rear so I paid special attention to that when I got there.

After removing the vinyl the beautiful silver paint was exposed. It kind of seemed like a shame to get rid if it, but I had better plans.

20200523_174316.jpg


The underside was painted matte black and was a bit scratched, so I decided that would come off too in favor of gloss black paint.

20200523_174338.jpg


It took some 80 grit sandpaper and a whole lot of elbow grease to get all of the paint off. I didn't worry too much about the underside as it will be just barely visible through the window, but I made sure to get the top side as clean as possible.

20200527_202101.jpg


Then to start the whole process. After the black undercoat became tacky I wrapped the carbon fiber. Most of it wrapped easily, but as expected the indented portion took some time to get flat and even. The inside corners on the front end took some time as well, as the carbon wanted to span across the bend rather than stick to it. There ended up still being small gaps between the carbon and the part there but it came out nicely in the end. As for the outlet hole at the indentation, I decided to slit the carbon in the middle. This did allow the weave to unravel a bit at the corners but it wasn't too bad and was only noticeable in the end product if you look for it up close. The rest of it got taped to the underside. Circled in red here were the spots that took some work.

20200621_141625.jpg


You can see I also elevated them off of the table by using the extra mixing cups that came with the carbon fiber kit. These were handy for the painting at the end as well.

Then add resin, dry, trim excess, resin resin resin. On the previous pieces I had tried to lay the resin on medium thick, but found that while this worked nicely for surfaces laid horizontally, the excess resin tended to run off of vertical and curved surfaces and leave only a thin layer behind. This made for uneven thickness on the different parts. This time I just did thin layers and it came out much more evenly overall and made less of a mess as most of it stayed on the part instead of dripping onto the table.

Once the resin was thick enough I wet sanded the parts to be nice and smooth and then prepped for painting. I started with the underside by taping off the edges.

20200613_164800.jpg


I then used Gloss Black Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Paint + Primer (Why does everything have to have a super long complex name now?) This worked out really well, so I tried out their Clear Coat for the the top side as well as the side mirror triangles I did last time, and it gave them the glossy clear sheen I was looking for. (See update below, this stuff lacked the UV protection I need)

20200618_185935.jpg


There were some minor flaws in the clear coat, but some wet sanding with 600 and 800 grit and a solid polishing smoothed them right out.

I wanted to make sure that these things stuck to the car as strongly as possible, so I maximized coverage by getting 1" wide 3M double sided tape and cutting it in half down the middle, then trimming where necessary. These should be secure enough to not fly off on the highway. (Or not, see the update below)

20200620_144543.jpg


And now for the beauty shots!

20200620_212939.jpg


20200621_171223.jpg


20200620_230907.jpg


20200621_162226.jpg


20200621_162252.jpg


20200620_213057.jpg


Update: The Extreme 3M double sided tape I used worked beautifully for a couple days. Several runs on the freeway and it didn't move at all. But today was the ultimate test; 30 minutes of direct Arizona Sun on a 110 degree day. I parked it outside at the store, checked that they were still secure (and they were), then went inside. Came out later and the bottom end of the sunny side scoop was peeling off. Apparently the 3M tape works great up to 100+ degrees, then it just softens up and doesn't stick anymore. This stuff will work for 95% of people in this application, but not if it needs to be outside in the Arizona summer.

So I ordered some 3M VHB (Very High Bond) Double sided tape, which is made to withstand high heat and is even used in construction. This stuff should hold, we shall see. It definitely went on strong very quickly and doesn't budge when I pull on it. The AZ summer test made only the very front ends come slightly up, but the rest held strong. If you live anywhere like AZ this is the stuff to use.

Update 2: Another thing that probably works fine everywhere but Arizona is apparently the clear coat. Both the SprayMax and the Painter's Touch are UV "resistant", but that's not enough to keep the AZ sun out and I'm seeing UV damage after only a few hours total in the sun. See here for my repair and the paint that actually works.
 
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Breath Free

I finally got around to replacing the intake air filter. I went with AEM Dryflow Air Filter because of my main options (including AFE and Green Filter), AEM had the highest rate of particle filtering while still increasing the flow a good amount. This was important since I drive around dusty Arizona and don't want that stuff in my engine.

I was a bit surprised when I got a box marked from K&N on my doorstep, and opening it up I even got a K&N sticker along with an AEM one. It turns out that K&N bought AEM a while back and kept the name, so it's all one company now.

20200624_143038.jpg


The AEM is the same size and depth as the stock filter, but much stiffer material and a nice rubbery frame for sealing to the box.

20200624_210635.jpg


It fit perfectly in place, and after a couple of drives I can tell the engine is happier and flowing more freely. It's got a bit more pep and has smoother acceleration. It's an easy upgrade with good results, and you might as well do it when you have to replace the filter anyway. :thumbsup:
 

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Steering clear of Trouble

One of the few disappointing things in my S550 when I got it was the steering wheel. My S197 was a Base model GT and had a real leather wrapped steering wheel, but my Premium model S550 was wrapped in vinyl, go figure. Time to fix that.

I went on ebay and ordered a Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel with Alcantara grips from Spec-m for a good price. I know it's made in Taiwan, but they and China are putting out decent stuff these days.

20200703_123537.jpg


The carbon fiber is excellent quality, there are no noticeable flaws other than the backside where the seam is, which is not visible once installed.

20200703_123625.jpg


The Alcantara is nice and soft with red stitching. There's one minor flaw in the stitching, barely noticable as well.

20200703_123638.jpg


I like Alcantara. I imagine it comes from rare llamas only found in the Alcantara region of Italy. There's no guarantee that this is from Italy, so technically it might just be Sparkling Suede.

Installation is surprisingly easy, even though you have to remove the air bag and transfer over all of the electronic components. The Workshop Manual has a process for checking that the airbag is properly working before fiddling with it to ensure it doesn't go off in your face, but I decided that the safest method was just to disconnect the battery.

To remove the airbag there is a hole on each side of the wheel used to access the springs holding it on.

20200703_211040.jpg


The Workshop Manual says to use a 3mm Allen key while CJ Pony's video suggested a 4mm. I found the 4mm to work better. Just stick it long way into the hole and push to release the spring, popping out that side of the airbag and cover, then repeat on the other side to release the rest. Here are the springs you are feeling around for so you can envision what you are blindly poking at from the sides.

20200706_224316.jpg


Next unplug the three plugs from the back of the airbag by pulling out the tabs then pulling them free. Here are all three tabs released.

20200703_212124.jpg


The nice thing about these and the rest of the plugs in the wheel is that they are all color coded, so you don't have to remember which plug goes where. Yellow goes in yellow, grey goes in grey, etc.

Speaking of grey plugs, pull that one out at the top, this one just has a standard push tab.

20200703_212216.jpg


Now, using a 24mm or 15/16" socket, remove the central bolt. This is kind of the only thing holding the wheel in place. Pull the wheel and Voila!

20200703_212435.jpg


Now you can take it inside and out of the heat to start removing all of the pieces. There are 8 T20 screws easily visible that need removal to get the four pieces of the controls and the silver piece at the bottom off.

20200706_225350.jpg


The bottom piece should come off now, just jam a trim removal tool in from the bottom and pop the clips. The two silver control pieces should also come right out with a bit of persuasion and after removing their corresponding plugs. Here is a view of the underside of the pieces so you can see where the clips are.

20200703_213753.jpg


The black control pieces have an additional screw which is exposed once the silver pieces are gone, remove those and they should practically fall off. Just remove their plugs and set aside.

20200703_213726.jpg


20200703_214155.jpg


Now flip the wheel over and pry off the large plastic piece on the back, which only has a few clips keeping it in place. This will expose the weight which has 4 light blue rubbery things holding it in place, push them through from the front and remove the weight. Then flip it back over and remove those springs that released the airbag by squeezing them together and pushing them up or down, whichever way seems easier.

20200703_214622.jpg


Now compare the core of the old wheel to the new one so you can see how much better it is.

20200703_214743.jpg


The new wheel is overall the same size but a little bit thicker in most places. The grips are much more pronounced and it has a flat bottom for racing reasons and because it looks cool.

Now reverse the process and put everything on the new wheel. Note that the blue rubbery things on the weight seat into the wheel so that the weight doesn't actually touch the wheel core.

20200703_220110.jpg


Trying to push it further than it should go using that 4mm Allen key could poke a hole in it... not that I did that. Nope.

The outer pieces push into the rubber around the core. The bottom part of the back piece and the bottom silver piece might not push in as flush because they border carbon fiber rather than Alcantara, but they should get right up against it. Don't forget to plug everything in as you reinstall them.

Once everything is back on check that it is all seated properly and flush. The only thing that shouldn't be completely flush is seen from the underside, where there is a small gap on each side.

20200703_223222.jpg


Finally, pop it back in place in the car, torque the bolt to 35 lb/ft, plug everything back in and pop the airbag back into place. Now, drive! After you reconnect the battery and close the hood, of course.

20200704_093435.jpg


It looks gorgeous and feels great when driving. The carbon fiber isn't too hard or slippery and the Alcantara is comfortable and has great grip. The only complaint that I have is that the stitching is a bit hard. I imagine that tough thread is needed to hold it together, but it does detract a bit from the softness of the Alcantara grips. Hopefully it softens up with use and then it will be perfect.
 

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Nice detailed write up!
I have often wanted a steering wheel, with a flat bottom, for looks. But, that would also mean giving up the heated steering wheel option. I am know, sad, but...

Steering clear of Trouble

One of the few disappointing things in my S550 when I got it was the steering wheel. My S197 was a Base model GT and had a real leather wrapped steering wheel, but my Premium model S550 was wrapped in vinyl, go figure. Time to fix that.

I went on ebay and ordered a Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel with Alcantara grips from Spec-m for a good price. I know it's made in Taiwan, but they and China are putting out decent stuff these days.

20200703_123537.jpg


The carbon fiber is excellent quality, there are no noticeable flaws other than the backside where the seam is, which is not visible once installed.

20200703_123625.jpg


The Alcantara is nice and soft with red stitching. There's one minor flaw in the stitching, barely noticable as well.

20200703_123638.jpg


I like Alcantara. I imagine it comes from rare llamas only found in the Alcantara region of Italy. There's no guarantee that this is from Italy, so technically it might just be Sparkling Suede.

Installation is surprisingly easy, even though you have to remove the air bag and transfer over all of the electronic components. The Workshop Manual has a process for checking that the airbag is properly working before fiddling with it to ensure it doesn't go off in your face, but I decided that the safest method was just to disconnect the battery.

To remove the airbag there is a hole on each side of the wheel used to access the springs holding it on.

20200703_211040.jpg


The Workshop Manual says to use a 3mm Allen key while CJ Pony's video suggested a 4mm. I found the 4mm to work better. Just stick it long way into the hole and push to release the spring, popping out that side of the airbag and cover, then repeat on the other side to release the rest. Here are the springs you are feeling around for so you can envision what you are blindly poking at from the sides.

20200706_224316.jpg


Next unplug the three plugs from the back of the airbag by pulling out the tabs then pulling them free. Here are all three tabs released.

20200703_212124.jpg


The nice thing about these and the rest of the plugs in the wheel is that they are all color coded, so you don't have to remember which plug goes where. Yellow goes in yellow, grey goes in grey, etc.

Speaking of grey plugs, pull that one out at the top, this one just has a standard push tab.

20200703_212216.jpg


Now, using a 24mm or 15/16" socket, remove the central bolt. This is kind of the only thing holding the wheel in place. Pull the wheel and Voila!

20200703_212435.jpg


Now you can take it inside and out of the heat to start removing all of the pieces. There are 8 T20 screws easily visible that need removal to get the four pieces of the controls and the silver piece at the bottom off.

20200706_225350.jpg


The bottom piece should come off now, just jam a trim removal tool in from the bottom and pop the clips. The two silver control pieces should also come right out with a bit of persuasion and after removing their corresponding plugs. Here is a view of the underside of the pieces so you can see where the clips are.

20200703_213753.jpg


The black control pieces have an additional screw which is exposed once the silver pieces are gone, remove those and they should practically fall off. Just remove their plugs and set aside.

20200703_213726.jpg


20200703_214155.jpg


Now flip the wheel over and pry off the large plastic piece on the back, which only has a few clips keeping it in place. This will expose the weight which has 4 light blue rubbery things holding it in place, push them through from the front and remove the weight. Then flip it back over and remove those springs that released the airbag by squeezing them together and pushing them up or down, whichever way seems easier.

20200703_214622.jpg


Now compare the core of the old wheel to the new one so you can see how much better it is.

20200703_214743.jpg


The new wheel is overall the same size but a little bit thicker in most places. The grips are much more pronounced and it has a flat bottom for racing reasons and because it looks cool.

Now reverse the process and put everything on the new wheel. Note that the blue rubbery things on the weight seat into the wheel so that the weight doesn't actually touch the wheel core.

20200703_220110.jpg


Trying to push it further than it should go using that 4mm Allen key could poke a hole in it... not that I did that. Nope.

The outer pieces push into the rubber around the core. The bottom part of the back piece and the bottom silver piece might not push in as flush because they border carbon fiber rather than Alcantara, but they should get right up against it. Don't forget to plug everything in as you reinstall them.

Once everything is back on check that it is all seated properly and flush. The only thing that shouldn't be completely flush is seen from the underside, where there is a small gap on each side.

20200703_223222.jpg


Finally, pop it back in place in the car, torque the bolt to 35 lb/ft, plug everything back in and pop the airbag back into place. Now, drive! After you reconnect the battery and close the hood, of course.

20200704_093435.jpg


It looks gorgeous and feels great when driving. The carbon fiber isn't too hard or slippery and the Alcantara is comfortable and has great grip. The only complaint that I have is that the stitching is a bit hard. I imagine that tough thread is needed to hold it together, but it does detract a bit from the softness of the Alcantara grips. Hopefully it softens up with use and then it will be perfect.
 
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Nice detailed write up!
I have often wanted a steering wheel, with a flat bottom, for looks. But, that would also mean giving up the heated steering wheel option. I am know, sad, but...
Yea, sometimes it's the little things that you don't want to lose, I get it. Fortunately I didn't have heated steering, and living in AZ I don't have much use for it anyway. I would think that Beith would make wheels that keeps the feature though, check it out if you don't mind the price.
 
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Back to Classics

As much as I loved how my MP Concepts LED fender badges look when lit up, I didn't like how they looked when dark. They are bulky and really mess with the car's lines. Plus, I've never been a big fan of blacked out emblems on Grabber Blue. As Marie Kondo says, if you don't love it, throw it away.

I looked at several options for replacement such as Coyote badges or white 5.0's, but nothing really caught my fancy like the original chrome 5.0's, so I ordered some from CJ Pony Parts. Since these are only $35 I also threw in some American Car Craft Brushed Stainless Steel Dead Pedal Trim Plates to get free shipping.

The fender emblems from CJ are OE Ford parts, they arrived in official Ford bags with the Ford part number on it. The nice thing about these is that they come with 3M tape already applied, so you just need to pull off the old ones, clean, and stick these on.

20200711_113415.jpg


Now the car looks sleek again without the chunky fender badges.

20200711_120724.jpg


The dead pedal covers were apparently "hand crafted" by Levi. I'm sure this is one of the easier parts to make by hand, but thanks anyway Levi!

20200711_114538.jpg


They also come with 3M tape already applied as well as some adhesive promoter to help it bond better. They easily stick right on. I didn't notice until I had applied it, but one corner is slightly bigger than the opposite corner, and I think the bigger corner is supposed to go at the top right. I think I put it on upside down, but it's not noticable at all unless you have your face down in the foot well.

20200711_113152.jpg


The finish matches well with the OE pedals, I just need to scratch it up a bit to get it to match perfectly.
 
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Carbon Fiber Icarus

It didn't take long to show that the clear coat I used had insufficient UV protection. Just a few hours in the sun and it looked milky and terrible.

20200719_195459.jpg


I sanded the damage off of the triangles which required sanding down to the carbon itself. I found that the easiest way to see if I was deep enough was to let it dry and look for the carbon reflecting on the surface. The shiny parts on the right are down to the carbon, while the stuff on the left isn't quite there yet.

20200823_191240.jpg



After getting as much of the damage off as possible I added 6 layers of Varathane Water Based Ultimate Spar Urethane. This was the stuff I originally wanted to use after finding that the Oil based stuff turned yellow, but I couldn't find it in a spray can without buying in bulk. I just got the small can from Home Depot and painted it on. This stuff has UV blockers instead of just UV resistance, which sounds more up to my speed. It's actually milky in the can and when painting on but turns clear while it dries. The one on the right was just painted, while the one on the left has been drying for 15 minutes.

20200726_191026.jpg


There is still some visible damage if you look super close, but for these little triangles it looks fine. The quarter window scoops, on the other hand, are going to take too much work and won't look perfect enough for such a large piece, so I plan on stripping them and completely redoing the carbon on those.

To test the protection, I set them out in the full sun for the entire day, and they still look perfect.
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