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NoVaGT

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I'm doing Koni Yellow shocks & struts on stock PP springs, some rear vertical links (not sure which yet), BMR cradle lock out kit, and the Steeda rear shock mounts. I want to get the rear end of this car planted, without increasing ride harshness and NVH. I'm a cornering/Grand Touring guy, not a drag/race guy, so there's that.

So, a few questions;

For the rear vertical links, I see delrin, poly and spherical bushing options. In AM's video, they caution that the spherical bushings will add NVH, but then in the comments section a few that have installed them on their cars say there is no increase in NVH. Any comments about the delrin/poly/spherical bushing conundrum would be appreciated.

And what of durability? Would spherical bearing horizontal links last as long as delrin or poly? Something makes me think they won't, so please share if you have any info or experience with them.

For the Steeda rear shock mounts, there are three options for the size of the rear shocks, but I don't know which to chose for the Koni Yellows, so I'm stuck on my order until I know. I anyone knows, please help.

When this is done, installed, I'll share my impressions. I just want the rear to be more stable and planted, get rid of that damned shimmy in the rear, especially when you hit a bump mid-corner.

FYI, I am laughing my head off during my investigations into the correct parts to use. There's all these complaints of nose-dive under braking, squat & wheel hop under acceleration, with stock S550 suspensions. I had a 2012 Brembo GT, and brothers and sisters I am here to tell you that the S550s suspension is worlds better than the S197's. Like, a huge, massive leap forward. If you think the s550 has nose-dive under braking and squat/hop under acceleration, then try an S197.
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NoVaGT

NoVaGT

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Nevermind; I'm going with straight Steeda stuff. Pro-action adjustables with their billet rear shock mounts, Stop the Hop starter kit, and poly bushing rear vertical links.

The good folks at Steeda took my call, and they have some serious Black Friday deals going on now.
 

Nagare

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For the shock mounts read their description:

  • 555-8151: All Stock Shocks, Viking Shocks, Ford Racing Shocks (10mm-1.5 diameter)
  • 555-8152: Steeda Adjustable Pro-Action Shocks, Koni Adjustable Shocks (12mm-1.25 diameter)
  • 555-8160: Steeda Non-Adjustable Pro-Action Shocks, Koni Non-Adjustable Shocks, KW V3 Adjustable Shocks (10mm-1.0 diameter)
  • 555-8161: Steeda Coilovers, Vogtland Coilovers, Bilstein Coilovers, Roush Coilovers, BC Racing Coilovers (Sleeve, no threads)
  • Custom: AirRide (10mm-1.25 diameter)
I believe yellows are adjustable so 555-8152.

edit » all Steeda is good too, can't beat sale pricing!
 
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NoVaGT

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Jesus, I'm so damned nervous. Getting ready to order......

Do I really need to do this? The stock PP suspension is pretty damned good, will I be disappointed after spending $1300 plus labor?

I wish I had a garage, had the ability to install it myself. I just don't have all the tools any more. And a lift, tall stands, etc., will get this done right, and in a reasonable amount of time. Plus I'll have someone who actually knows what they're doing doing the work with me helping, a fellow member here. I could do it, but in the cold, with rented tools, in my apartment building's parking lot, with jacks and jack stands......sounds like a nightmare.

Think I'll need an alignment afterwards?
 

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Nevermind; I'm going with straight Steeda stuff. Pro-action adjustables with their billet rear shock mounts.
I think it was a good call to go adjustable.

And FWIW, good damping does tend to reduce your perception of how much a car's body/chassis is moving on its suspension under acceleration, braking, and cornering. Even when there's this much, it's not terribly bothersome ↓↓↓ . OE springs with Koni yellows (forget settings)

2012_run_to_the_shore_start_stop_squared10a.webp



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Norm Peterson

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Think I'll need an alignment afterwards?
It's at least worth checking, even if you don't plan on running more track-oriented settings. This can be done by any of several DIY methods, at least for checking camber. Do a 'before' set of measurements for a baseline and decide what you're going to do after you take your 'after' set (setting up in the same place as for the 'before').


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BmacIL

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Jesus, I'm so damned nervous. Getting ready to order......

Do I really need to do this? The stock PP suspension is pretty damned good, will I be disappointed after spending $1300 plus labor?

I wish I had a garage, had the ability to install it myself. I just don't have all the tools any more. And a lift, tall stands, etc., will get this done right, and in a reasonable amount of time. Plus I'll have someone who actually knows what they're doing doing the work with me helping, a fellow member here. I could do it, but in the cold, with rented tools, in my apartment building's parking lot, with jacks and jack stands......sounds like a nightmare.

Think I'll need an alignment afterwards?
IMO if you're going to go through the trouble, mild lowering and firmer rate springs is a good thing. Ride harshness is different from firmness. Ride harshness comes from poor control/damper match. I'd go with GT350R springs in your shoes. 0.7" front and 0.3" rear drops, with rates at 240/900 vs 165/728, lb/in. The ride is firm but extremely well controlled with something like the adjustable dampers. This means you'll feel everything, but it isn't translated into the body in a back breaking way. I have even stiffer rear springs and get compliments on the ride often ("wow, I can't believe it's this stiff and rides this well" kinda thing).

That said, even with stock springs it'll be a dramatic change in handling. Your biggest complaint about the rear end wiggle/inconsistencies can be addressed by locking that subframe and the shock mounts. The dampers, when adjusted up a bit, will help the car feel more planted and settled overall, with less oscillation. Just up, down instead of jiggly.

And yes you'll need an alignment after.
 
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IMO if you're going to go through the trouble, mild lowering and firmer rate springs is a good thing. Ride harshness is different from firmness. Ride harshness comes from poor control/damper match. I'd go with GT350R springs in your shoes. 0.7" front and 0.3" rear drops, with rates at 240/900 vs 165/728, lb/in. The ride is firm but extremely well controlled with something like the adjustable dampers. This means you'll feel everything, but it isn't translated into the body in a back breaking way. I have even stiffer rear springs and get compliments on the ride often ("wow, I can't believe it's this stiff and rides this well" kinda thing).

That said, even with stock springs it'll be a dramatic change in handling. Your biggest complaint about the rear end wiggle/inconsistencies can be addressed by locking that subframe and the shock mounts. The dampers, when adjusted up a bit, will help the car feel more planted and settled overall, with less oscillation. Just up, down instead of jiggly.

And yes you'll need an alignment after.
If I didn't work and drive around Washington D.C., I would do some springs. But I definitely need the suspension height and travel for these roads.
 

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For the rear vertical links go with the Poly.

For a street car having a little bit of compliance in the vertical links bushings isn't a bad thing.
 
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Well.....I did it. Just spent $1300.00+ with Steeda. Ain't no turnin' back now!!!
 

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I've never spent this much on mods before. Sure, $1800 (with labor) isn't a lot compared to what other folks spend, but it's a chunk for just suspension.
 

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I've never spent this much on mods before. Sure, $1800 (with labor) isn't a lot compared to what other folks spend, but it's a chunk for just suspension.
But it'll reward you every time you drive the car.
 

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I just dropped a bunch on Steeda over the sale. Looking forward to new shocks/struts, front lateral/tension links, and rear shock mounts! Should really clean up the handling...
 

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I also picked up their lateral & tension links taking advantage of the big sale.
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