Alignment w/Handling Pack

[Tomster]

I can’t understand if he claims the toe stays the same or not. I would doubt it.

It does not.

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[GJarrett]

... just thinking out loud regarding simplifying street/track alignments for toe/camber changes (and saving a little money if you pay for it). What if you set the camber/toe for street application, then change camber to track at -2.0+ using a Vorshlag camber plate with its scale/pointer, then record how many turns it takes to adjust/reset the toe. The next time you switch camber, could you trust just redoing the same adjustment for toe and call it a day (and avoid having to pay someone to realign toe)?

 

[Tomster]

... just thinking out loud regarding simplifying street/track alignments for toe/camber changes (and saving a little money if you pay for it). What if you set the camber/toe for street application, then change camber to track at -2.0+ using a Vorshlag camber plate with its scale/pointer, then record how many turns it takes to adjust/reset the toe. The next time you switch camber, could you trust just redoing the same adjustment for toe and call it a day (and avoid having to pay someone to realign toe)?

My alignments are out of spec if the measurement is a few thousands off.
With that said, you can do what you suggest, but it won't be accurate at all.

The best way is to either pay someone else or to stringing the car and do it yourself.

The measurements screenshot is a demonstration of the very small tolerances needed for a track alignment. A small adjustment makes a fairly large change.

The photo is the BG string kit that I use for my alignments. Pictured is Dean's old #59 GT4

 

[navbtcret]

My alignments are out of spec if the measurement is a few thousands off.
With that said, you can do what you suggest, but it won't be accurate at all.

The best way is to either pay someone else or to stringing the car and do it yourself.

The measurements screenshot is a demonstration of the very small tolerances needed for a track alignment. A small adjustment makes a fairly large change.

The photo is the BG string kit that I use for my alignments. Pictured is Dean's old #59 GT4

You have the hub stands with your kit? Are they needed or can you do the alignment without the stands? I think I will buy this kit just need to know if I need the stands. That way I can adjust the toe on the rear myself when I go drag racing and then put it back when I am done, along with checking the track alignment and street alignment myself.

 

[Tomster]

You have the hub stands with your kit? Are they needed or can you do the alignment without the stands? I think I will buy this kit just need to know if I need the stands. That way I can adjust the toe on the rear myself when I go drag racing and then put it back when I am done, along with checking the track alignment and street alignment myself.

I use race ramps wheel cribs to get the car up in the air so I can make the adjustments. I put turn plates under the cribs to aid in tow settings, otherwise, the friction of the tires interferes with adjustment. The problem with this method is that the car has to settle once you jack it to get the car on the cribs. So I bounce the car and let it settle over time.

If the car isn't settled, the adjustments made are not valid. So what I do is what I stated above, align the car, and drive it. I then re-string the car and verify the alignment parameters are correct or need a minor adjustment. I'll note the "settled settings" and use that as a delta to adjust what I have if I have to jack the car again.

 

[OX1]

Vorshlag claims you can get upwards of 3 degree camber on 20+ GT500 with no cutting (and their plates). This true?

 

[DaveR.PP2]

If Vorshlag says so (no cutting of top of tower up to -3 degrees camber for such application) then I suppose you go with what they tell you. I have the same plates for my 2020 Mustang GT with the performance pkg Level 2 and I also purchased from Vorshlag the hole cutter tool/jig. For this application having the hole opened up particularly setting above around -2.6 degrees and greater eases adjustments. I'm running the factory strut/shock with Magnaride.

And toe likewise must be checked and adjusted every time camber changes are made and that's without exception. Pretty much my routine on this subject.... but this is for the PP2 Mustang and I have no experience with the GT500 nor the GT350 or R for that matter.

 

[OX1]

If Vorshlag says so (no cutting of top of tower up to -3 degrees camber for such application) then I suppose you go with what they tell you. I have the same plates for my 2020 Mustang GT with the performance pkg Level 2 and I also purchased from Vorshlag the hole cutter tool/jig. For this application having the hole opened up particularly setting above around -2.6 degrees and greater eases adjustments. I'm running the factory strut/shock with Magnaride.

And toe likewise must be checked and adjusted every time camber changes are made and that's without exception. Pretty much my routine on this subject.... but this is for the PP2 Mustang and I have no experience with the GT500 nor the GT350 or R for that matter.

Plates will be here Mon, and I have my own older Hunter alignment system (w/plates and 4 post etc....).

Was just curious if anyone actually got the 3 degrees, with no cutting and no camber bolts.
First time doing 20" rims and I do have the head mount extensions, curious to see how that works out.

 

[Tomster]

Plates will be here Mon, and I have my own older Hunter alignment system (w/plates and 4 post etc....).

Was just curious if anyone actually got the 3 degrees, with no cutting and no camber bolts.
First time doing 20" rims and I do have the head mount extensions, curious to see how that works out.

I've never gone after 3 degrees, wish I could help. 3 degrees at daytona would kill the tire. Did you get the vorshlag plates?

 

[OX1]

I've never gone after 3 degrees, wish I could help. 3 degrees at daytona would kill the tire. Did you get the vorshlag plates?

Not sure I'll settle on 3 degrees, but would like it avail. Don't really want to use camber bolts, unless you have to with tire/strut clearance.

Supposed to be here tomorrow. Have to get them installed and move my alignment cabinet out to pole barn. (which is unheated 24/7, so I keep "computer" in my house garage in the winter).

 

[991GT]

Plates will be here Mon, and I have my own older Hunter alignment system (w/plates and 4 post etc....).

Was just curious if anyone actually got the 3 degrees, with no cutting and no camber bolts.
First time doing 20" rims and I do have the head mount extensions, curious to see how that works out.

I have a PP2 with stock springs/MagRide and was able to get -3Deg with Steeda plates so I'd expect the same is possible on the Vorshlag plates.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Do it yourself. A string alignment is as good as it gets. BG racing makes a nice kit that will save you a bunch of setup time when you have to either check it or do it again.

Dealer alignment racks are only as good as the tech and the calibration. They are made for DD cars and not a precision alignment. Yeah the digital readout/printout...... ask them when the last time the machine was calibrated. Even then, a guy doing a rush job alignment is not suitable for the track.

Do it yourself or get your wallet out for a quality alignment by a competent track car shop.

+1
I’ve had alignment shops mess it up…. Smart racing products sells a nice string setup and digital camber gauge. Build yourself some stands.

 

[OX1]

Might be time For me to finally get one of the "string" systems and learn how to use it.
I just mounted my DSP300 Hunter heads up to the front wheels, and there is no way TOE
sensors are going to see each other, with that splitter/belly pan (especially on a CFTP car).

 

[Epiphany]

and there is no way TOE
sensors are going to see each other, with that splitter/belly pan (especially on a CFTP car).

Why would that be different than any other '20-'22 GT500?

 

[OX1]

Why would that be different than any other '20-'22 GT500?

CFTP is 3/4 inch lower than not (so I'm told). My alignment system is older, so laser has to see other laser, under front bumper (or bumper cover, or edge of fwd fender, etc..).

This is the front head on my system (mounted on my mom's Grand Marq on the floor, just to try out something I might be able to use on the 500).

There is only 3.5 inch under the edge of splitter and belly pan on CFTP 500.

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