Aftermarket Rotors

[TeeLew]

The base 4 pot brakes with vents, pads, and fluid also perform very well for the beginner to moderate track car

The big deal on the 14's was the reversed cooling on the discs, which was ridiculous and made them worthless on track. I bet they can take quite a bit of abuse with reasonable airflow now that Ford stopped being galactically stupid.

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[bnightstar]

if the rest of your car is GT4 capable and you are racing professionally, then sure. can't imagine why one would need all of that to do a 25-minute session with point-by only passing.

that's the point I do Time Trials and in Europe we don't do point-by passing we can pass whatever we like witch often mean under braking. And when you are chasing 0.1 seconds every brake zone count you try to brake as late as possible with the car. Also when you move to bigger tires and lower TW your braking performance increases a lot and so does the heat. Here is an example between the 275 TW-240 Zestino and the 305 TW-100 AR-1's:

This literally is double the G force under braking.

 

[WD Pro]

that's the point I do Time Trials and in Europe we don't do point-by passing we can pass whatever we like witch often mean under braking. And when you are chasing 0.1 seconds every brake zone count you try to brake as late as possible with the car. Also when you move to bigger tires and lower TW your braking performance increases a lot and so does the heat. Here is an example between the 275 TW-240 Zestino and the 305 TW-100 AR-1's:

This literally is double the G force under braking.

* Not trying to be an arse, just interested *

I’ve hit more braking G on the MPS4S on a public road, 1.04 (after resetting the factory values).

I believe that’s a 300TW v your 305 ?

Assuming some margin of error in your system and the factory system in my car, that still seems quite a difference to your 0.70 value ?

WD

 

[bnightstar]

* Not trying to be an arse, just interested *

I’ve hit more braking G on the MPS4S on a public road, 1.04 (after resetting the factory values).

I believe that’s a 300TW v your 305 ?

Assuming some margin of error in your system and the factory system in my car, that still seems quite a difference to your 0.70 value ?

WD

The Zestino tires are regenerate cheap chinies tires. And they likely were not brand new at the time of this current lap. Same with the 1.46 with the 305 tires this lap was on brand new disks so I was careful not to overheat them. I have over 1.60G at the same braking zone in some other laps.

 

[tosha]

The Zestino tires are regenerate cheap chinies tires. And they likely were not brand new at the time of this current lap. Same with the 1.46 with the 305 tires this lap was on brand new disks so I was careful not to overheat them. I have over 1.60G at the same braking zone in some other laps.

we're not starting "who's G is bigger" contest, aren't we?


Just kiddin

 

[bnightstar]

we're not starting "who's G is bigger" contest, aren't we?


Just kiddin

Not really is just pointing out why the OEM brakes are not exactly what I need but it's what I have so will have to live with it for a little while.

 

[shogun32]

Here hpde is not racing. In Europe I guess you're racing. Just without the trophy. I've found that late braking is inferior a tactic than learning to brake a whole lot less and improve corner exit of previous and carry faster segment speed.

 

[bnightstar]

Here hpde is not racing. In Europe I guess you're racing. Just without the trophy. I've found that late braking is inferior a tactic than learning to brake a whole lot less and improve corner exit of previous and carry faster segment speed.

We do have Time Attack in USA you do too. In Time Attack there are trophies and I have a lot of them. There is no way to not brake for a 90 degree turn if you are doing 111 mph. Here is a video of the lap in question:

 

[TeeLew]

Here hpde is not racing. In Europe I guess you're racing. Just without the trophy. I've found that late braking is inferior a tactic than learning to brake a whole lot less and improve corner exit of previous and carry faster segment speed.

To go truly fast, you have to do more than just a good exit. I've found the majority of time is gained on entry as well as exit. Corner minimum speed is what I sacrifice because it tends to delay throttle application. Make the car stop without entry instability (that takes front spring) and make it put powerdown on exit, which means a soft enough rear for compliance, but stiff enough that understeer isn't excessive.

Maximize what you can do braking and on entry (while trailing the brake on the way in). Make the full-throttle point on the exit as early as possible. Accept understeer through the middle of the corner as a necessary evil and appreciate as the tires get hot, that understeer will likely evaporate.

 

[shogun32]

There is no way to not brake for a 90 degree turn if you are doing 111 mph

Sorry, I was replying in the context of using last ditch braking as a means of passing another driver. Didn't mean to suggest no braking would apply to any and all corners b

 

[SirJames]

I use girodisc. My car is a track car. I had them since car was still a street car.

Pros
11lbs each lighter.
Better cooling.
Mine last long. (better cooling better wearing)
Cons. 1000$

Is it worth it for spirited driving. No.
More than 6 event per year? Maybe.
The pads are more important.
Pair with a good pad (not the hawk5.0) and you are gold probably with oem style too.
Alessandro

You have a write up or vid of installing the fender vents?

 

[Flyhalf]

You have a write up or vid of installing the fender vents?

I dont. But all.you need is
Racelouvers.com. They provide templates.
Once u set it then blue tape around to hold in place
Then use the grinder to cut the line of the template.
Use good rivets to secure it.
I suggest to cut the hole always slighty smaller cause u can always enlarge it.
Not difficult. Just meticulous. Take your time and dont rush it. The second fender louver.will.take waaaay less than the first one cause u feel "pro" lol

Tools :
Angle grinder.
Ask racelouvers what rivets they suggest
And blu.tape

 

[SirJames]

I dont. But all.you need is
Racelouvers.com. They provide templates.
Once u set it then blue tape around to hold in place
Then use the grinder to cut the line of the template.
Use good rivets to secure it.
I suggest to cut the hole always slighty smaller cause u can always enlarge it.
Not difficult. Just meticulous. Take your time and dont rush it. The second fender louver.will.take waaaay less than the first one cause u feel "pro" lol

Tools :
Angle grinder.
Ask racelouvers what rivets they suggest
And blu.tape

Could I cut the fender liner or you recommend getting rid of it altogether ?

 

[K4fxd]

First my track is very small like an autocross course (2 km) it's very brake intensive.

In this case you need to put fans in your cooling ducts.

 

[K4fxd]

The big deal on the 14's was the reversed cooling on the discs, which was ridiculous and made them worthless on track. I bet they can take quite a bit of abuse with reasonable airflow now that Ford stopped being galactically stupid.

I'm running the 4 pots with 2 piece rotors and cooling ducts. I think the weight reduction makes up for the slight loss in brake power. I can still activate ABS with slicks.

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