After 4 years FRPP2 install!

[accel]

Also,plaese post your post install experience here:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/power-pack-pinging-detonation-poll.133075/

So far ~40% of 91 octane users report detonation.

But since 60% do not have it I wonder if I did something wrong or out of sequence, or there's something else to do to get rid of it. I am on the fence of either asking for refund or try install one more time several month later.

Some say it will go away eventually if you keep driving. My only guess to this strategy is - before installation I was using mostly 87, plus my first short block consumed a lot of oil, plus car mostly is used as weekend short trip. So maybe my cylinders are full of carbon deposits and thus compression is higher than necessary.

So I rolled back to stock, but will use 91 and engine cleaners with some regularity and will try frpp2 again maybe in summer.

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[Grimreaper]

perfectly normal, most of us went through the same thing on the first tune install. especially once the car lights start flashing and chimes ringing and warning lights on the dash etc...

most important thing is constant voltage/power supply while this goes on.

Because the battery monitor system in the car only lets the battery charge to 80%,i HIGHLY recommend using a battery charger. an old school linear one is preferred. Newer PWM chargers can add noise into the system. Put both (+/-) leads on the battery directly. this bypasses the battery monitor and allows full charge to reach the battery. The ecu is isolated from the rest of the CAN system during the tune and other modules will behave oddly and you'll have lights turning on and staying on plus a large current draw. Ive seen as high as 7-8 amps and avg 5-6 amps. it takes 15 minutes or so from start to finish.

Plug in the laptop and adjust your screen off and sleep settings too so it doesnt shut off mid load. once the tune starts deleting/loading do not go opening/closing doors etc.. leave the car alone until its done. voltage spikes/deficiencies are what mess this process up.

do not power the laptop from a converter plugged into the car, us AC wall power only while flashing a tune. ground loops and OR'ed power supplies = strong likely hood of a bad day..

 

[Kong76]

I bought a Noco Genius g350 battery charger a while back for this project. It has the Claw type negative and positive battery clamps. Hope it will do the job.

I run 91 octane all the time and its a daily driver so I hope I don't have pinging issues. With my luck I will.

 

[Kong76]

Ok downloaded the calibration and when I opened the file under the program tab I have a screen that says

Opening Calibration with the location and file name below it.

With a blinking cursor. It seems to be stuck on this process. Does not say Calibration opened. Do I need to re-download the file again?

When I hit close file it says

Closing calibration
C:....blah blah
Calibration closed.

 

[Grimreaper]

Does the greyed out program button appear? On the left after calibration is open?

Once it opens you'll have to connect to the car to finish. Otherwise it sounds like you are there.

 

[Kong76]

Does the greyed out program button appear? On the left after calibration is open?

Once it opens you'll have to connect to the car to finish. Otherwise it sounds like you are there.

Yes on the left the program button below open file is highlighted to be picked. Also the description populates showing;

Green s550 power pack 3.31,3.55,3.73 non perf pack.

My car is silver but prob a generic descriprion used. The VIN is correct on the calibration file so I guess im good to go. Just seemed like it was stuck waiting to open file.

I appreciate all the replies and help. You guys are awesome.

 

[accel]

Yes on the left the program button below open file is highlighted to be picked. Also the description populates showing;

Green s550 power pack 3.31,3.55,3.73 non perf pack.

My car is silver but prob a generic descriprion used. The VIN is correct on the calibration file so I guess im good to go. Just seemed like it was stuck waiting to open file.

I appreciate all the replies and help. You guys are awesome.

I've dealt with two procal versions. The last one behaves like your scenario no matter how long you wait.

Previous one would sometimes show a message sometimes not. So I re-tried several times.

Both ways seem to work.

 

[Kong76]

Ok fellas I have two last questions.... I know I still haven't installed. This pandemic and work has taken up all my time lately.

The instructions on the tune state if the voltage falls below a certain amount or if the tune is interrupted for any reason will not load and that I will need two consecutive flash cycles to complete. Is that really so? and what will it show to prove to me after the second flash that it did install the Ford tune and not reinstall the OEM tune the second go around.

The last question and I mean last is this profile learning. When am I suppose to use this if so. Does this have anything to do with correcting pinging? Do I wait to drive the car first..

Thanks fellas and stay safe!

 

[thelostotter]

Hook the battery up to a charger so you don't need to worry about low voltage. I've had the tune fail because of low voltage and needed to redo it a second time, and then needed to use forscan to clear a bunch of codes that a regular handheld tuner cannot read.

Profile learning is the crank position learning. I recommend doing it.

Octane adjust is a option to use an alternate spark table if the car pings on the default tables.

 

[Kong76]

So you did have to flash it back to back after the initial fail?

That concerns me because once the tune flashes the OEM tune goes into that slot on the file. If I then go for a second flash ( like the instructions say if the initial tune fails) How do I know I am not putting the OEM tune back on the second time..

Ok so switch that profile learn on prior to downloading the tune. I have heard several others got check engine light and needed to go back and do that crank relearn.

Thanks for your help.

 

[thelostotter]

So you did have to flash it back to back after the initial fail?

That concerns me because once the tune flashes the OEM tune goes into that slot on the file. If I then go for a second flash ( like the instructions say if the initial tune fails) How do I know I am not putting the OEM tune back on the second time..

Ok so switch that profile learn on prior to downloading the tune. I have heard several others got check engine light and needed to go back and do that crank relearn.

Thanks for your help.

I did have to flash it twice to get the tune to load completely, but that was only because the battery voltage dropped too low the first time. I was not using a charger. I always use a charger now after that experience.

To put the stock tune back on you have to click "Restore" or something like that. You'll know if the tune loads correctly, it will tell you.

You won't be able to reach the screen with the Profile Learn until after the tune is loaded. Once the car is tuned and you start it up and its up to temperature you should do the crank relearn. It will ask you to rev it up to 4000+ rpm in neutral.

 

[Kong76]

Perfect, thankyou sir. I will definitely use a charger. Don't want any problems

 

[Grimreaper]

You can flash the frpp tune a second time with out having to click restore. Just hit program again and it will start the erase and write process over

Id wait on setting the octane adjust until you know yours won't take the timing. You can log it with procal. Do a 3rd gear pull starting at 3000rpm to redline and engine brake in gear after. Turn off traction control. You should be seeing 27 to 28 degrees near 7krpm. I was only seeing 24 degrees. Turn on the octane adjust, log again and see if your getting full timing load. Issue is it comes on strong in the mid range and one knock on a wot pull will wreck the rest of the pull.
Or you may hear it at part throttle. I never did.

 

[Kong76]

Damn so its pulling timing because of the Octane of the fuel in the tank. When you use that octane adjust how does that allow you to use or suppose to allow full timing? does it still mean it's pulling power regardless using a different spark map? Sorry I am new to tuning.

 

[accel]

I haven't done crank learning and I had ping.

crank learning is not in the list of things to do though, AFAIR.

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