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Additional hood heat extractors

cking

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So far I have heard of a track pack car hitting limp mode. So seems pretty dialed in. So more vent holes is not necessary and may be a bad idea, maybe for turbo's.
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For track only, you can remove the plastic cowl portion at the back of the hood that seals it from the elements. It's where the wipers connect to the car.

I noticed a cooler running engine and definitely helped with the hood flutter since it allows lot of air to escape out that way.
 

cking

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Some evidence that vents may help
 

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I was actually contemplating wrapping the stock headers to see how much it would help with under hood temps. Anybody have experience with that?
I would recommend against wrapping the headers because I believe you will probably shorten their life.
 
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nastang87xx

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The car runs @ 200-210deg just like most every car,truck,SUV out there,
...are you driving your car in like early northern spring weather full time?

And yes, I'm pretty heavy in motorsport. I've seen temps up to 242.
 

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...are you driving your car in like early northern spring weather full time?

And yes, I'm pretty heavy in motorsport. I've seen temps up to 242.
Nope, full on 85-90 deg summer.
I'd suspect some mod to allow greater air entry through the front for full on track use might hold a better solution.
 
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nastang87xx

nastang87xx

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Nope, full on 85-90 deg summer.
I'd suspect some mod to allow greater air entry through the front for full on track use might hold a better solution.
The car has no rpoblem with getting air in. It needs to get moved out.
 

Zitrosounds

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So far I have heard of a track pack car hitting limp mode. So seems pretty dialed in. So more vent holes is not necessary and may be a bad idea, maybe for turbo's.
Yeah! In the middle east!!! Lololololol and i believe there were specific contributing factors like say THERMOSTAT!!! Lololo
 

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I like to disassemble things.
If you are willing to cut, the forward portion of the front wheelwell can be removed to vent the underhood pressure. The GT350R -C cars took advantage of this as did the GT4 cars until IMSA decided to no longer allow it.
 

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For track only, you can remove the plastic cowl portion at the back of the hood that seals it from the elements. It's where the wipers connect to the car.

I noticed a cooler running engine and definitely helped with the hood flutter since it allows lot of air to escape out that way.
Bad idea since there is a high pressure area at the base of the windshield (which is the point of a reverse cowl induction) -where Nascar engines get air from. I wouldn't remove the weather stripping.
 

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Two questions if I may. Now I do know that while the car, over all, is potentially capable of an increase in ultimate top end but is constrained by the present aero package.
Given this, my first question would be, should'nt some of these thoughts be combined with some consideration on the present aerodynamic package?
Second question is how do we know or not whether enough air is simply evacuated out the bottom ?
 

EF300

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...are you driving your car in like early northern spring weather full time?

And yes, I'm pretty heavy in motorsport. I've seen temps up to 242.
In FL I have seen engine oil temps up to 252 degrees when flogging it. Runs 220's to 230's on a routine basis in the summer. We're talking about air Inlet temperatures of high 90's to 100 degrees generally. I used to freak out about this but I don't anymore.
 

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Bad idea since there is a high pressure area at the base of the windshield (which is the point of a reverse cowl induction) -where Nascar engines get air from. I wouldn't remove the weather stripping.
So what negative effects will I experience by removing said weather stripping?
 

sigintel

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Bad idea since there is a high pressure area at the base of the windshield (which is the point of a reverse cowl induction) -where Nascar engines get air from. I wouldn't remove the weather stripping.
Tracked all year and the cowling removal really helped.
Never thought it might be sucking in...
Gonna go tape some yarn on and see if it sucks in.

35-52ish it sux in!
Below 25 out. 25-35 buffeting.
55-132 hard out.
Just one string in middle and some cross flow so this is just bunk until more strings.

Sitting hot with incense sticks under hood the smoke rolls out the back substantially.
This makes sense to me as idle in traffic after ass haul was great improvement and on fast tracks like MSR Houston I was actually blocking top rad in early spring to keep temps above 185.

Freakn overcast and spitting here so iphone pics worthless. Need to get external mount gopro or something. Need way more strings and yarn to do all the way across.

Not stock aero so my results might not work for all:
Lower grill delete, bumper rolled forward and down ~20mm, fender supports extended, Whipple, 305 35 19
 
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nastang87xx

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In FL I have seen engine oil temps up to 252 degrees when flogging it. Runs 220's to 230's on a routine basis in the summer. We're talking about air Inlet temperatures of high 90's to 100 degrees generally. I used to freak out about this but I don't anymore.
I understand it's not the end of the world too and that the engine does like to run a little hotter than maye we're used to with the Coyote. But always thinking, even if I won't end up doing anything (not that I'm freaking out).
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