A long post about long time issues with cam correlation codes. (Carnage pics)

[Timbuck]

I feel for you jas. I’m talking my engine built engine out next weekend to solve my oil burning issue ( oil rings moved on assembly).

Note.. looking at your bench of parts I couldn’t see cam oil filters ?? did your cams have the filters in them ??
If so any crap in them ??

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[HKusp]

I feel for you jas. I’m talking my engine built engine out next weekend to solve my oil burning issue ( oil rings moved on assembly).

Note.. looking at your bench of parts I couldn’t see cam oil filters ?? did your cams have the filters in them ??
If so any crap in them ??

I didn't pull it apart this time, but I put it together the last time and the filters were in. I'll call the shop tomorrow morning to ask, either that or I'll take a ride down and put eyes on them. Either way, I will report back.

 

[HKusp]

I feel for you jas. I’m talking my engine built engine out next weekend to solve my oil burning issue ( oil rings moved on assembly).

Note.. looking at your bench of parts I couldn’t see cam oil filters ?? did your cams have the filters in them ??
If so any crap in them ??

So the answer was the tech working on it isn't there today, but they'll get back to me on it Monday. Why he couldn't just go out there and look at them really quickly I don't know. That being said, he did say they last time they were in there to change a phaser and a solenoid, they pulled them and put new ones in so they literally only have MAYBE 50 miles at most on them. The ones that came out had less than 150 miles on them.

 

[Timbuck]

All good. It just triggered me as most of them are blue in colour and from the pic they should be in the end of the cams and visible. They are critical in stopping shit getting into the phasers and causing problems.

 

[engineermike]

They also can get clogged up and cause the very problem they’re there to prevent….

 

[HKusp]

I talked with the shop and decided while they are THAT deep to go ahead and pull the engine. I want to look at the crank bearings, and re-ring the pistons. Might as well, right?

 

[HKusp]

A bunch of this is moot at this point. I have badly badly scored cylinder walls on the thrust side of the driver's side of the block. This is another huge kick in the sack.

 

[Timbuck]

Arhhhhh fuck

 

[HKusp]

Arhhhhh fuck

Yeah...oh well. I'll get it figured out. I have my old block from when I broke the ring land and I don't THINK there was any damage to the cylinders or crank on that one. I'll gather some info and post what I decide to do in the next couple of days.

 

[HKusp]

To update this thread. At this point I am at a bit of a wait and see for a few days because of the Labor day weekend. I have my original block that I broke a ring land on, that prompted me to build this one, at the machine shop. I dropped it off and picked up my heads from having them cleaned and reassembled.

I built the block we just pulled before I had pulled the original, assuming I had irreparably damaged the original, but to my surprise once I DID pull it, there didn't seem to be any damage to the block or crank, so I hung on to it with the idea that I would eventually build another short block out of it. It has been sitting under cover but outside for 3 years with the number 6 piston and rod removed.

I dropped it off for them to check it and see if it was usable and upon initial visual inspection, the shop said it looks good so far. He's going to dig into it further this upcoming week.

I am going to drop the other block with all the ARP hardware and the Manley rods and pistons off to them this week. Between the 2, we SHOULD have a functioning short block here relatively shortly.

Here is a pic of the oil filter from the block that needs to be sleeved, cut open with oil that has less than 100 miles on it. I think you can see the metal shaving sediment in it.

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