I will try to find someone to go to the track with and get a few runs. But drag racing is a Achilles Heel, it is very addicting to me like crack to a Crack addict. So I have to be careful. lol
Nice numbers manJust dynoed my car today to:
- 1096CHP SAE, 910 whp SAE, 830ft tq SAE on a $200k 4wd dyno.
- Adjust tune for added boost to 15lbs
- Verify If my new Smooth Boost Controller worked on a Whipple Mustang GT. I will do seperate post to discuss more indepth. The dyno guy said I should sell those kits for what it done was crazy spot on.
- Test Boost output from my 10%OD IW aluminum Crank Damper with a 3.5" griptec blower pulley.
- FI Interchiller 10mm thermal spacers and underside insulation were great at reducing IAT2 temps due to thermal heat transfer from the heads to my blower.
My car is basically stock, but I’m interested. I’m just over in Westfield.
I took my 18 back to the track once since I got the new combo in. Ran real well and Im tempted to go back, but Im worried about the trans. I have a converter and the Mcleod rebuild , but at the power level we are at, its on borrowed time. Im afraid to put it back on drag radials. Congrats on the power level. Its a lot of fun on the streets.
Did you have your transmission upgraded also when you got the new converter?
Yes, when I got my trans built, Mcleod was the only company with a kit, so I got the GPZ full rebuild kit.
Well, I hope your transmission holds out, And Mine LOL
My best advice is don't 100% throttle down in 7th gear. That's the weak link in these transmissions. Just like going full throttle into overdrive with the fox body aod, it will break.
I was wondering if switching my rear gears from my PP1 3:55 to 3:15 if that would be better with my HP level?
Honeslty, I dont have enough experience with pd blowers to be able to give a solid opinion. I still have 3.15s in mine with the Vortech.
Two Things. Wheel HP is definitely what tells you exactly how much engine power is reaching the ground, which is all that matters when racing. But; Crank HP and TQ is the limit on any engine not wheel HP and I would say 1108 crank HP is maxing out the 5.0 Coyote Engine for any realistic, even if small, its reliability/survivability. A Stock 2019 Mustang GT A10 Dynos at around 410WHP. The Factory Crank HP is 460. That means the car loses around 11% CWH to the wheels. Now my Engine produced 1108 Crank HP which is staying close to the same 11% loss from a stock 2019 Mustang GT I lost around 19% horse power from the engine to the wheels.
Hi. After reviewing my Dyno graphs I can see I lost around 19% HP from the engine to the wheels, (1108 Crank HP and 917 Wheel HP). That most likely means my Torque Converter is slipping pretty bad. So, I will keep boost around 11lbs until I get a Circle "D" or Suncoast Converter put in. Running a transmission where the Torque Converter is slipping all of the time is bad, and will contaminate your transmission and most likely cause damage to your transmission clutches, valves etc. I will also talk with transmission race shops and ask them if they feel by my Dyno Graphs that both the Converter and Clutches are slipping. If they are I will Upgrade both. I have learned that when building engine One must keep in mind that as HP goes up, Other Parts will fail and need upgrade. That's just part of this world we live in.
