6 piston vs 4 piston with fixed rotor design

[TeeLew]

At 3:38 the tower says 17C (63F), a bit cold for the summer yes. That's probably winter temp for what you guys are used to in So Cal

There's something about that place that even when it's warm, it's still cold.........***AND*** I'm a complete cold wimp!

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[TeeLew]

Track day at circuit Zolder is coming up soon.

If you get a chance, can you grab waffles for everyone?

 

[Seanuf99]

How did you determine that 22+ 4 piston rotors have the cooling veins swapped to the inside of rotor hat versus being on the outside for pre 22 models. I am slowly gathering the parts to do the 4 piston GT swap but have not sourced front rotors yet so would like to be sure the 22+ rotors truly have the rotor hat swapped to put the airflow to veins on the inside of hat versus the outside like pre 22 GTs have.

BD

I had a late 21 build GT. Can confirm. Have the full front brake set up in my garage, even the dust shields. At some point I will put them up for sale. I took them off the car with only 1k miles on them. Have full suspension front and back out there too!

 

[Jstang23]

I have done th pretty much the exact same thing with my brakes! I have the 4 pots and have engineered an underpan that has the brake ducts as well as made my own deflector fins. In addition I also run G-Loc R12, SS lines, and Castrol SRF fluid. The setup seems to work pretty well, still using the stock rotors. Although I do have to say that I always have cooling in the back of my mind, these cars are fast and heavy, even the 6 pots can be exceeded while on track!

 

[Gray Ghost]

Proper braking technique on the track also plays a key role in overall performance. New drivers often tend to over brake or drag their brakes into the braking zones. If you plan to do HPDE on a more frequent basis, you will want to upgrade to the 6-piston setup with larger rotors. Benefits are more braking surface area and cooling between application. Nothing worse than coming hot into a braking zone only to experience significant brake fade or overheated fluid, etc.

 

[TeeLew]

If you get a chance, can you grab waffles for everyone?

Did you at least grab a waffle for YOU? I'm dyin' ova' here.

 

[Walt]

Did you at least grab a waffle for YOU? I'm dyin' ova' here.

There was no waffle stand unfortunately, but I had a tasty burger. If y'all are ever in the area, hit me up and we'll go eat some.

 

[Walt]

Finished my first trackday at Zolder with the new 6 piston calipers and proper (streetish) pads (DBA Extreme Performance). Brakes performed very good and I was able to complete 30 min sessions without overheating them. This track is very hard on brakes so it was a good test. I'm happy that I made the decision to upgrade.

The track was wet so I couldn't go all out but I will be back next week and hopefully it'll be dry.

 

[shogun32]

I think you wanna get better pads, stat. Rain hides a lot of sins.

 

[Walt]

I think you wanna get better pads, stat. Rain hides a lot of sins.

No rain just a bit wet on some sections. DBA claims "Optimal braking consistency up to 550℃ (1022℉)" so we'll see how they hold up, I've added cooling deflectors too.

At the time of ordering there was no race pad available, only the Extreme Performance which is recommended for occasional weekend trackdays. These are also EC approved which is a must to be street legal here.

If they are not sufficient I will look at Carbotech pads. I think XP10 front and XP8 back is a good start from what I've read. (Not legal but I'll just swap them)

 

[TeeLew]

There was no waffle stand unfortunately, but I had a tasty burger. If y'all are ever in the area, hit me up and we'll go eat some.

I would absolutely love to and promise I will if the opportunity arrives. I was there a long time ago and stayed in Liege. That whole area is magical.

 

[Walt]

Got back from a dry but very hot day at Zolder. It was 32C (90F). It was a lot of fun being able to push the car hard but unfortunately it kept overheating. Mainly the engine oil got in the yellow after just 15 minutes of driving. I guess I'll have to get an oil cooler.

I'm wondering if there is anything needed for the manual transmission (MT-82)? There are no PIDs to track the temperature, neither is there anything for the differential. Do I need coolers for those if the engine oil is overheating?

To get back on topic, as for the brakes, they performed quite well but I think I still overheated the pads and got some heavy pad smear on the rotors now. The pads itself looked to have discolored to gray at the edges, looks a bit burned like charcoal. The rears started to come apart it seems. They never faded or failed or anything.

Would I be able to get some more track days out of these pads and rotors? Pad thickness is still good.

After this I think I'll buy carbotech XP8 rear and XP10 front, or would you guys recommend XP10 and XP12 instead? I don't want to make the expensive mistake again of choosing slightly suboptimal temp pads (these were supposed to get Optimal braking consistency up to 550℃ (1022℉) )

 

[tosha]

Can anybody with 4 piston caliper on hand please measure the center on center distance between caliper mounting points? Pic with a measuring tape would be ideal

 

[shogun32]

Pic with a measuring tape would be ideal

don't you want at least a proper caliper with 0.2mm precision?

Sorry, none of my stuff comes with the 4 pots. And I don't think my neighbor would take kindly to me shoving a jack under his car, zipping off his wheels, and dismounting the caliper.

"But it's for Science" is unlikely to assuage the FFX police officer.

 

[tosha]

Sorry, none of my stuff comes with the 4 pots

No worries, hoping that someone might have takeoffs sitting around.

don't you want at least a proper caliper with 0.2mm precision?

a good approximation is good for now, but hey, caliper would be even better)))

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