5.2L Ford Coyote Gen 3 Help

[Vandor]

I was able to score a brand new Gen 3 block 5.2 L for a good price and I need your guys help to piece some of the parts together. I have searched and did get some answers but not all. My questions are below. I currently have a Gen 2 Coyote turbo mustang . I'm not looking for crazy power about 900RWHP-1000 and its a dedicated street car. I understand these 5.2 L blocks are pretty strong and could probably do that with stock internals but I'd like to build it up anyways.

1) I understand I will need a Voodoo / Predator head gasket set with 95 mm bore. My question is, will the Gen 2 5.2 voodoo gasket work on the gen 3? I haven't even been able to find a dedicated Gen 3 5.2L head gasket set but I did see somewhere the Gen 2 and Gen 3 5.2L head gasket was the same?

2) If so, will the Gen 2 Voodoo/predator head gasket work with my Gen 3 block and Gen 2 5.0 heads?

3) I was looking at maybe picking up a set of Gen 3 heads to keep my car running through the whole process, while the engine is built up. I know the DI system would need to be capped (no biggie). My question is can the Gen 2 car ECU handle a Gen 3 head set? I know the Gen 3 heads changed valve lift, springs, and cam phasers, would this affect my Gen 2 ECU or could this be fixed in a tune file?

4) Also does anyone have a head gasket set they could recommend for Gen 2 heads and Gen 3 for a Gen 3 5.2L Block?

5) The turbos are low mount and I'd like to just use a Gen 2 oil pan with high flow pick up tube for clearance concerns. I love the GT500 pan kit but I'm afraid the side budges in the GT500 pan would interfere with the turbo setup. Has anyone ran a GT500 pan with low mount turbos?

6) Do I need to set ring gaps with a torque plate?

7) Do I need to Align hone if using ARP main studs?

8) Would gen 3 heads and coyote 5.0 crank have any affect on compression ratio with 5.2L manley 11/1 pistons?

Final any input or recommendations from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Please don't hesitate to throw your two cents in because I'm trying to decide which direction to go with it while keeping costs reasonable.

So far my game plan to is to buy MMR 1000HP rotating assembly 5.2 one with ARP main studs and 11 to 1 pistons. I also thought about going 10 to 1 for safety also. I was going to give it a machine shop that builds race engines about 45 mins from me and let the align hone and assemble it. I would assemble it myself but the only part that intimidates me is the crank install. I see you have to whack it back then forward and then pry on a counter weight with screw driver to push the crank a direction while simultaneously cranking down the outside main cap. I just don't want to mess it up and I don't have that much experience assembling from this level. I've assembled a lot from the semi built stage only.

Sponsored

 

[engineermike]

1) You can confirm, but I believe the gen3 gasket bore is larger than the stock 5.2 predator bore.

3) Gen 3 switched from CTA to oil pressure actuated phasers so the solenoids and probably connectors are different. You could probably repin correct connectors and do some fancy tuning but likely not worth the effort.

6) Not necessary. The ring gap itself is a point of debate. Most aftermarket recommends huge oil drinking gaps for the top ring “to be safe” but ford uses very tight top gaps even under .010 but larger second ring gaps even on boosted applications like Predator and ecoboost.

7) I wouldn’t align hone or change to studs here. It’s introducing unnecessary change that isn’t really justifiable and brings in space for errors and defects.

The main cap installation procedure isn’t that complicated. Choosing the right bearing grade is.

There’s a set of predator pistons, rods, and crank on eBay right now for a very reasonable price. If it were me, I’d strongly consider buying and using that set.

 

[Vandor]

1) You can confirm, but I believe the gen3 gasket bore is larger than the stock 5.2 predator bore.

3) Gen 3 switched from CTA to oil pressure actuated phasers so the solenoids and probably connectors are different. You could probably repin correct connectors and do some fancy tuning but likely not worth the effort.

6) Not necessary. The ring gap itself is a point of debate. Most aftermarket recommends huge oil drinking gaps for the top ring “to be safe” but ford uses very tight top gaps even under .010 but larger second ring gaps even on boosted applications like Predator and ecoboost.

7) I wouldn’t align hone or change to studs here. It’s introducing unnecessary change that isn’t really justifiable and brings in space for errors and defects.

The main cap installation procedure isn’t that complicated. Choosing the right bearing grade is.

There’s a set of predator pistons, rods, and crank on eBay right now for a very reasonable price. If it were me, I’d strongly consider buying and using that set.

Do you have a link?

 

[engineermike]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3068279967...d=ford+5.2+pistons&sacat=0&relatedSearch=true

 

[horsepower addiction]

I just built a 5.2 predator block with boost line rods dss piston. I used total seal rings so I could open the gap a little but keep blow by down. Will it work who knows but sound good. I used cometic head gasket set arp studs. Gen2 heads will work just fine. Gen3 heads can work but it’s a mission.

Sponsored