Gen 3 Coyote block vs Gen 1 Voodoo block

[zackmd1]

Mostly for curiosity, potentially leading into a project... Which is considered the stronger block? I remember awhile ago hearing the Gen 3 block was essentially a voodoo block with some tweaks, is that true? I can nab a Gen 3 block for half the price of a voodoo block (I know 94mm bore vs 93 but that has little bearing on this potential build)

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[Jackson1320]

You can get a updated gen3 block with 3.700 bore for $1900

 

[zackmd1]

You can get a updated gen3 block with 3.700 bore for $1900

I can get a Gen 3 block with the 93mm bore for $800. As I said, cylinder bore doesn’t matter for this project, if the blocks are the same in terms of strength, I’ll go with the cheaper option.

 

[Angrey]

If you can get a gen3 block for half price, I'd say that's your ticket. If you're going crazy power, neither block is the best answer and if you're not, it probably won't matter either way so save the money.

 

[Jackson1320]

I know you can get a gen 3 block dirt cheap. The gen3 block will handle 1000+ hp. Just check the cylinders for correct bore,out of round, and taper as soon as you get it. There’s no reason you can’t get a boss crank some good rods and pistons and build a good short block. Just don’t use racing bearings or 2618 pistons if it’s a street engine

 

[olaosunt]

I know you can get a gen 3 block dirt cheap. The gen3 block will handle 1000+ hp. Just check the cylinders for correct bore,out of round, and taper as soon as you get it. There’s no reason you can’t get a boss crank some good rods and pistons and build a good short block. Just don’t use racing bearings or 2618 pistons if it’s a street engine

why not the 2618 pistons ?
Noisy ?

 

[Jackson1320]

why not the 2618 pistons ?
Noisy ?

Noisy yes but the reason why they are noisy is because they are rattling around and over a short period of time they will wear out the bore and themselves because 2618 aluminum wears out faster than 4032. 4032 pistons are a lot stronger than you will ever need on a street car. People make 1000whp on stock hyper pistons and 4032 are far stronger.

 

[Jackson1320]

Everyone wants 2618 pistons but when they are worn out at 20,000-30,000 miles they wish they had gone 4032

 

[gimmie11s]

Noisy yes but the reason why they are noisy is because they are rattling around and over a short period of time they will wear out the bore and themselves because 2618 aluminum wears out faster than 4032. 4032 pistons are a lot stronger than you will ever need on a street car. People make 1000whp on stock hyper pistons and 4032 are far stronger.

He's right about the pistons.

The Mahle powerpak's for the Gen 3 coyote's are 2618 and mine are noisy at first start up for a few minutes in the morning.

Once car is up to temp they quiet down a LOT.

At the price I paid for my pistons, I would still do them again, but next time I will probably go with a 4032 due to my car primarily being a street car. I don't plan to make over 1200whp any time soon so I could have done without the 2618 material.

 

[gimmie11s]

I know you can get a gen 3 block dirt cheap. The gen3 block will handle 1000+ hp. Just check the cylinders for correct bore,out of round, and taper as soon as you get it. There’s no reason you can’t get a boss crank some good rods and pistons and build a good short block. Just don’t use racing bearings or 2618 pistons if it’s a street engine

Why do you suggest not using "racing" bearings?

 

[Jackson1320]

Why do you suggest not using "racing" bearings?

Street bearings have a thicker layer that is designed to catch material that would normally scratch the crankshaft. This doesn’t matter in race bearings because they are supposed to be changed often and street bearings have a silica that helps polish the crankshaft as they wear. Race bearings don’t have either of these. Race bearings are designed to be in use for a lot shorter time

 

[gimmie11s]

Street bearings have a thicker layer that is designed to catch material that would normally scratch the crankshaft. This doesn’t matter in race bearings because they are supposed to be changed often and street bearings have a silica that helps polish the crankshaft as they wear. Race bearings don’t have either of these. Race bearings are designed to be in use for a lot shorter time

Interesting. I have the black coated King XP's in my car now (mains and rods). The mains will stay because I don't feel like pulling the motor again, but changing the rods can be done in an afternoon being I have a BMR K member that drops easily.

What brand street rod bearing would you recommend?

 

[Jackson1320]

Interesting. I have the black coated King XP's in my car now (mains and rods). The mains will stay because I don't feel like pulling the motor again, but changing the rods can be done in an afternoon being I have a BMR K member that drops easily.

What brand street rod bearing would you recommend?

king

 

[Jackson1320]

Interesting. I have the black coated King XP's in my car now (mains and rods). The mains will stay because I don't feel like pulling the motor again, but changing the rods can be done in an afternoon being I have a BMR K member that drops easily.

What brand street rod bearing would you recommend?

You can change the main bearings without removing the crankshaft

 

[gimmie11s]

You can change the main bearings without removing the crankshaft

Yeah, I got to thinking about that, I suppose you could.

And if the pan is dropped, might as well do them all.

Good info!!

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