2020 GT500 Caliperfexion Caliper Stud Installation

[Epiphany]

If there was any material degree of 'friction' and it rotates the stud, the already cured locktite is now shattered. I would be inclined to use 15-20ft/lb since it's a M14x2 fastener... You don't need a lot of torque on the nut holding the caliper on the stud - you are simply making it tight enough so it doesn't come loose. There should be no actual stretching of the stud nor deformation of the threadform.

All the force is in sheer - nothing pulls back on the caliper so 'tightness' is not critical to operation.

That is not how it works, at all. It is the fastener stretch that works to maintain the proper amount of preload and inherent friction created. You never jam a stud into a blind hole with the idea being to "keep it there." You must apply the proper amount of stretch through an engineered/calculated torque figure, in this case at the nut due to it being a stud. Without enough torque applied through tightening of the nut, the fastener will fatigue and eventually fail. Never under or over torque a critical fastener or you risk a failed connection that can yield disastrous results.

Fastener stretch, in the proper amount, is everything. An engineered fastener can go through a near infinite amount of proper stretch cycling. Again, under torque will lead to fatigue. Over torque, and you risk yielding and creating a "plastic" or permanently deformed fastener.

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[shogun32]

You never jam a stud into a blind hole with the idea being to "keep it there." You must apply the proper amount of stretch through an engineered/calculated torque figure, in this case at the nut due to it being a stud

well then 'preload' be it 5ft/lb or 20 is not important since you're going to use the nut at the other end to pull on the threads in the hole. And the locktite that crystalized 'at rest' has now been shattered when you pull on the fastener.

the force you apply with the nut (steel on steel) is being applied equally at the other end of the stud which is steel in aluminum, is it not?

is 75% of yield on a steel 1/2-20 fastener == 75% of 7000 series AL at M14x2?

 

[Epiphany]

The importance lies in ensuring that you have bottomed out, hence a hand-tight figure of 5 lbs. In this application, fastener length is critical due to clearances being tight at the nut end. Too long, and you encroach on the barrel of the wheel.

The force is equally applied throughout the stud. There is a difference between the knuckle end only seeing tension and the nut end which also deals with friction imparted when you turn the nut on the stud.

 

[Jmeo]

I for one enjoy some levity every once in a while. Being technical and serious all of the time gets old. Take a step back and see the video for what it is, a little comedy and something to laugh at and yet still shows the easy of use with the product.

Bingo

 

[Caballus]

As I read this (and the similar thread on the GT350 forum), I can't help but wonder if some don't realize that @Epiphany (and his wife) invented Caliperfexion studs, which are used by FPRS on the Track Attack cars and who knows how many other professional applications. If @Epiphany can't answer a question about these studs, it can't be answered.

Yes, I'm biased, but it's experience-based bias.

 

[Chris2020GT500]

Great write-up and good information, thanks!

 

[Jmeo]

As I read this (and the similar thread on the GT350 forum), I can't help but wonder if some don't realize that @Epiphany (and his wife) invented Caliperfexion studs, which are used by FPRS on the Track Attack cars and who knows how many other professional applications. If @Epiphany can't answer a question about these studs, it can't be answered.

Yes, I'm biased, but it's experience-based bias.

Bingo, bingo

 

[Houston Kid]

Plain and simple. The caliber studs, stud extension, and wheel guides are a thing of beauty. The machine work on the hardware is so perfect. I am very glad I put these on. The wheel guides do make putting the wheel back on and pulling it off a lot easier and a lot less risk of hitting the caliper.

BTW due to my fat fingers and a third party vendor's return policy (no refunds, store credit only) and me getting old, I ended up with two complete sets of stud and two sets of extensions (paid for both, LOL). I am not mad. You have to read the return policy which it clearly states no refunds, store credit only. Again, this is from a third party vendor, not the manufacture of the product. So the old saying, my loss is your gain. I will ship the never opened studs and extensions via USPS for $200. I think they are $208.50 shipped if you order them online so you save a few bucks and can have them by mid week.

PM is interested.

 

[TonyNJ]

J, or @Dig-It do these look like Caliperfexion brand studs to you guys? Maybe an older set? They don't look like the polished ones that are shown in most of the images I'm seeing. These are probably about 3yrs old and have seen plenty of heat. They are on a 2020 GT500 I recently acquired.


Thread pitch is 1/2-20 Fine. A 9/16 twelve point socket fits the nut. I'd like to order the correct extensions the first time.

Please advise. Thanks gents.

Tony

 

[Jmeo]

J, or @Dig-It do these look like Caliperfexion brand studs to you guys? Maybe an older set? They don't look like the polished ones that are shown in most of the images I'm seeing. These are probably about 3yrs old and have seen plenty of heat. They are on a 2020 GT500 I recently acquired.


Thread pitch is 1/2-20 Fine. A 9/16 twelve point socket fits the nut. I'd like to order the correct extensions the first time.

Please advise. Thanks gents.

Tony

They do look like Caliperfexion studs that are either completely coated in graphite, or are the non stainless version. I have not seen the steel (non stainless) version, so I do not know if the 12 point nut and washer are black. I do know that Optimum Performance (OP) sells them now, maybe they are his version?


I call @Epiphany to the floor to present his verdict.

 

[TonyNJ]

They do look like Caliperfexion studs that are either completely coated in graphite, or are the non stainless version. I have not seen the steel (non stainless) version, so I do not know if the 12 point nut and washer are black. I do know that Optimum Performance (OP) sells them now, maybe they are his version?


I call @Epiphany to the floor to present his verdict.

Thank you. I can probably write the place I acquired the car from, but they're off for a week or so. And since they didn't care to tell me these were on there, I'm kind of in the mindset to leave them alone.

The steering wheel was shuddering on braking, so figured it is best to cut these rotors and replace these thin pads....

Do you happen to know if these Brembos are the OEM pad version

.

 

[Tomster]

He's a little busy right now.

He used to do two MP on the carbon steel studs. MP is manganese phosphate. I don't know who is producing the studs anymore, but its probably the same thing.

 

[Tomster]

Thank you. I can probably write the place I acquired the car from, but they're off for a week or so. And since they didn't care to tell me these were on there, I'm kind of in the mindset to leave them alone.

The steering wheel was shuddering on braking, so figured it is best to cut these rotors and replace these thin pads....

Do you happen to know if these Brembos are the OEM pad version

.

cut the rotors on a GT500? It can be done, but the rotors are so huge, not many shops can do it. If you do, I wouldn't use them for the track. I would suggest buying used takeoffs or new. I have a set I bought back in October for around $900 new.

 

[TonyNJ]

cut the rotors on a GT500? It can be done, but the rotors are so huge, not many shops can do it. If you do, I wouldn't use them for the track. I would suggest buying used takeoffs or new. I have a set I bought back in October for around $900 new.

I didn't know cutting these big rotors was an issue. If it can't be done, I'll have to get a new set, I'd be concerned a used set might be warped too. I think my track days are over... for a while.

 

[Tomster]

I didn't know cutting these big rotors was an issue. If it can't be done, I'll have to get a new set, I'd be concerned a used set might be warped too. I think my track days are over... for a while.

I cut a set of gt350 rotors once. It required a specialty machine shop. That was a while ago, maybe things changed. Also, iirc, there isn't a lot of extra meat on these rotors. Get a set of calipers and measure what you have. On the hat is the min thickness you can go.

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