2020 GT500 Caliperfexion Caliper Stud Installation

[Epiphany]

Nice write up.

How long did it take for yours to arrive? I ordered last week and have not heard squat.

Are you talking about caliper studs or wheel guides?

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[kilobravo]

I was confused too, Tob. Me thinks HK was asking about the hangars. IAE, Reverse Logic is Johnny on the spot with shipping.

 

[Jmeo]

Are you talking about caliper studs or wheel guides?

I can only assume, by his other post about installing camber plates, that he is talking about the wheel studs.

I was confused too, Tob. Me thinks HK was asking about the hangars. IAE, Reverse Logic is Johnny on the spot with shipping.

That video isn't Reverse Logic's, but I think he is speaking about the caliper stud kit.

 

[kilobravo]

I defer to your better judgement, Jaime. :-) I DO love those lug guides.

 

[Houston Kid]

Are you talking about caliper studs or wheel guides?

I was referring to the caliper studs and caliper stud extensions.

 

[fishpick]

Today I installed a set of Caliperfexion 17-4 PH stainless caliper studs on my 2020 GT500, and I thought I would post my results, incase anyone else may be interested. [...]

After everything is clean, apply some of the included thread locker on the stud threads and install them into the knuckle. When finished there should be 3 7/16” between the knuckle and the end of the stud.

OK - I love this @Jmeo - so much easier than managing the "dangling caliper" every time you need to change pads, pull rotor, whatever (and yes I know you are supposed to be able to slide the pads out without pulling the caliper - but that never seems to work quite right for me on fronts, I dunno why - I think it's because i never get the pistons fully compressed - but my inability to fully compress is nobody else's issue but my own).

QUESTION - how do you get the studs installed beyond thread locker and hand tight? What torque setting on that fancy Snap-On and how?

 

[Warpath]

OK - I love this @Jmeo - so much easier than managing the "dangling caliper" every time you need to change pads, pull rotor, whatever (and yes I know you are supposed to be able to slide the pads out without pulling the caliper - but that never seems to work quite right for me on fronts, I dunno why - I think it's because i never get the pistons fully compressed - but my inability to fully compress is nobody else's issue but my own).

QUESTION - how do you get the studs installed beyond thread locker and hand tight? What torque setting on that fancy Snap-On and how?

Found this on their site.

Install: https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/fd...liper_stud_instructions.pdf?ver=1593877529586

 

[fishpick]

Found this on their site.

Install: https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/fd...liper_stud_instructions.pdf?ver=1593877529586

Am I reading this right... they are installed / torqued to a whopping 5 ft-lb into the knuckle? I mean - LocTite is good stuff - but...

 

[Warpath]

Am I reading this right... they are installed / torqued to a whopping 5 ft-lb into the knuckle? I mean - LocTite is good stuff - but...

Reminds me of ARP headstuds. Hand tight only.

 

[Epiphany]

Studs are normally installed hand tight. The five pound figure is merely preload to ensure the ball end has bottomed out in the knuckle bore. It is the friction created at the threads (when torqued) that keeps the studs in their place. Thread locker ensures they stay bottomed when they are no longer stretched via removing the applied torque.

On edit....Warpath nailed it.

 

[fishpick]

Studs are normally installed hand tight. The five pound figure is merely preload to ensure the ball end has bottomed out in the knuckle bore. It is the friction created at the threads (when torqued) that keeps the studs in their place. Thread locker ensures they stay bottomed when they are no longer stretched via removing the applied torque.

On edit....Warpath nailed it.

I get it - but - brakes...

Makes my head hurt and something down under have a twitchy feeling...

But I love the functionality of these for track swaps...

 

[shogun32]

The five pound figure is merely preload to ensure the ball end has bottomed out in the knuckle bore. It is the friction created at the threads (when torqued) that keeps the studs in their place.

If there was any material degree of 'friction' and it rotates the stud, the already cured locktite is now shattered. I would be inclined to use 15-20ft/lb since it's a M14x2 fastener... You don't need a lot of torque on the nut holding the caliper on the stud - you are simply making it tight enough so it doesn't come loose. There should be no actual stretching of the stud nor deformation of the threadform.

All the force is in sheer - nothing pulls back on the caliper so 'tightness' is not critical to operation.

 

[Epiphany]

It is the same idea as when you torque a wheel lug nut. It is all about friction between wheel face to rotor face as well as the lug thread/lug nut interface.

I used to get that same feeling as you do now until I better understood the theory behind it.

 

[Houston Kid]

Nice write up.

How long did it take for yours to arrive? I ordered last week and have not heard squat.

All is good. I will have them by weeks end or thereabouts. My fat fingers and a computer glitch appear to have been the problem.
Nothing on their end and as @Jmeo said, customer service is top notch.

 

[Houston Kid]

Guys, check out the new product by the makers of Caliperfexion. These are a game changer when trying to avoid whacking and chipping your calipers.

The video happens to me a masterpiece, if you ask me.

Available soon.

I for one enjoy some levity every once in a while. Being technical and serious all of the time gets old. Take a step back and see the video for what it is, a little comedy and something to laugh at and yet still shows the easy of use with the product.

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