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Patriot Six

Patriot Six

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I appreciate the feedback. I’m sorry to hear all the troubles you’re having with the car. I hope there’s an easy way out. I’m going to try the 3.75 with custom tune because this EB tune is killing me.
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BlueCollarDaily

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Just an update did it by the book full warmed after 20 mile drive , engine running on lift in neutral and it was 1.5qts low, possibly bit more.
It's a 19mm socket cover that was hard to snap loose under that is a dip stick.....have the leave engine running entire time.....
We used a hand pump and topped her off....
The trans pan is very shallow depending on how the filter is arranged I could definitely see a couple of qts low causing issues.......
Possibly placebo but 2-3,3-2 and entire trans seems smoother....
I'll report cold operation tomorrow.....
Check your fluid level and dont take it to Ford they wont actually do it and say they did.....I had a mark it was same ( while engine was out ) spot cap hadn't been touched.....god I hate lazy ass mechanics.....just say I dont want to check it.....instead of lying....
 
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Thanks for sharing. That’s troubling. I’ll have it in the air soon when I do the springs so I’ll check it then.
 

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Just an update did it by the book full warmed after 20 mile drive , engine running on lift in neutral and it was 1.5qts low, possibly bit more.
It's a 19mm socket cover that was hard to snap loose under that is a dip stick.....have the leave engine running entire time.....
We used a hand pump and topped her off....
The trans pan is very shallow depending on how the filter is arranged I could definitely see a couple of qts low causing issues.......
Possibly placebo but 2-3,3-2 and entire trans seems smoother....
I'll report cold operation tomorrow.....
Check your fluid level and dont take it to Ford they wont actually do it and say they did.....I had a mark it was same ( while engine was out ) spot cap hadn't been touched.....god I hate lazy ass mechanics.....just say I dont want to check it.....instead of lying....
I was also 1.5qts low. Very frustrating.
 

BlueCollarDaily

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What's more frustrating is I, based on yours and others specifically and directly asked for my transmission fluid to be checked....this was 2nd engine done by Ford ( 3rd was a independent shop)....I reminded and asked....when I was bring parts and actually some torque specs for blower to them, I discovered when he went to lunch ( also when service advisor come off so I could either get with or avoid either of them at my choosing) I made a quick crude mark while I was with a right angle pick he had out.....
Asked and yes it was fine they said....then I have a few issues and it starts acting out a bit I read all these post and it begins to bother me so we put it on the lift...I didnt need a mark it was obvious it had never been checked, it had that crack sound you know the one when a bolt hadn't ever been removed, in fact where the trans not hot I dont think it would have come out.....
Then you check it and no only is not where it's supposed to be it's barely touching the stick?
So they missed the ball at the factory ( and on top up that also underfilled my 19 by 2qts of oil on first engine till I caught it and literally, new to Ford, had to argue with them about it cause it was on my receipt 8qts vs 10 ), then they lied about checking it while it there and they are doing an entire engine anyone and it's on the lift and they are the only ones with ULV fluid.....the more I think about it, the engine failures, the BS TSB7718 putting all ticks, rattles, and knocking in the same category vs taking each one on an individual basis to determine if it's a problem....I mean who in the world thinks a document saying that " though your engine is quite when demo and purchased its likely to develop a rattle up to 2k rpm after the first oil change, this is normal to sound like a Cummings diesel at the drive thru but not when you buy it only after first oil change and beyond" who in their right mind thinks that's addresses the issue or is a good defense....when I took my lawyer that she literally LOL and was like they literally wrote our argument for us in the form of admission of bait n switch unless it was disclosed at time of purchase the engine would knowing by them, ford, change operational characteristics normally associated with failed components in similar engines whether it is an indicator of that in their engines or not....she wanted at it but I was modded....which she has won many magnussen moss act claims as well and even got lemon law protections after statute of limitations.....I digress.......
I just come to accept I'll have to build an engine and get the trans build ( I'm sure Edelbrock will help me on it I've run less boost than I paid for to help it live I done my part) fairly soon....just done with Ford, the QC and Service...
I don't know how the filter/pickup is made but the pan is comically shallow....I could see it an issue.....
Assume nothing with Ford or anyone else, honestly I'm used to doing everything myself my whole life since 15...I'd bet they are all similar in their lack of ambition and drive to be a proud and skilled master of their craft....just so happens I chose Ford to be my first new vehicle to lessen my load and have a new turn key car and supercharger system and it's been anything but.....
However the sound that coyote made when I screamed away from the shop boiling tires does go a long way to making it seem worth it ;)
 

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Yeah, I’m starting to regret selling my boosted C6Z for this thing.
 

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Yeah, I’m starting to regret selling my boosted C6Z for this thing.
I didnt truly regret it till I tried to trade it in with 3 engines ( and soon add a trans ) using the 0%/72 on the new car ( 2019 left over ) to help mitigate some of the losses I knew I would incur ( and I put either 7500 or 8k down on it, its mint still has tags in seats and glove box...hadn't removed the plastic on the radio till a few months ago....6k miles) on trading in and after the carfax they weren't even interested in an offer ( and that's before the trans and factory paint spot that needs fixing)......
I'm completely stuck in it....
 
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Geez. Modding cars comes at a cost. Lol
 

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@BlueCollarDaily

Just going to throw this out there. No idea if this has any bearing on anything... however...

Your tranny was low on fluid for not sure how long. Is it possible that on the upshift the rpm spiked or tranny slipped for an instant and “caused” the engine to let go? You’ve said previously the car has felt great but on the 2-3 or 3-4 shift (not sure which) is when the the damage was done.

Just wondering if there is any correlation between the engine letting go on the shift and the fact you were down a great deal of fluid.

Like I said, no idea but if there was some slip in the tranny on the shift and this is when the engine let go...
 

BlueCollarDaily

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@BlueCollarDaily

Just going to throw this out there. No idea if this has any bearing on anything... however...

Your tranny was low on fluid for not sure how long. Is it possible that on the upshift the rpm spiked or tranny slipped for an instant and “caused” the engine to let go? You’ve said previously the car has felt great but on the 2-3 or 3-4 shift (not sure which) is when the the damage was done.

Just wondering if there is any correlation between the engine letting go on the shift and the fact you were down a great deal of fluid.

Like I said, no idea but if there was some slip in the tranny on the shift and this is when the engine let go...
Hey Bud,
Normally that's what I'd think but I have the logs every time its rattle and or blown up....what it does is, based on the gear split with 3.15 gears the a10 and a 28 tire....pulls way down on shift recovery rpm....and when it does the blower is insanely efficient and it boost spikes ( would be more et if the stock pistons could take it on 93, e85 for instance all this would simply be adding ET) and load is max ect...it reaches a threshold and rattles the piston at the "Bottom of the gear" due to as I said available cfm and increased load....I think of it in my head as shooting a 300 shot of nitrous on an engine at 2 low of rpm. Engine builders are telling me I still have to watch it because if the piston holds many have bent rods there ( he said he has literally seen older gen blocks split in that area ).

As far as the trans fluid yes it was low from factory, I suggest everyone that has the car and is modded aka blown warranty, check your fluid be there to see it with your eyes they WILL lie because its unpleasant to do...and fill....
 

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Update #3: I’m running 91 octane + Boostane so I decided to load the EB 93 tune. It does drive somewhat smoother during casual driving, but it’s still an on/off switch with some random surging.

I have a 3.75” pulley, new belt, and OPG/CS sitting in the garage so we’ll see how long I last before I go with a custom tune. I was trying to hold off until my new wheels arrived, but it’s already been 10 weeks and counting!
 
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Today, it was as if I had a dead pedal. Throttle angle was all out of whack so I had to revert to stock tune with stock TB then reload the EB 93 tune. Throttle response is now better, but still not great. Unbelievable how bad the EB tunes are.
 

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Today, it was as if I had a dead pedal. Throttle angle was all out of whack so I had to revert to stock tune with stock TB then reload the EB 93 tune. Throttle response is now better, but still not great. Unbelievable how bad the EB tunes are.
Trust me I've had my share but this doesnt sound like my experience....the Edelbrock Stage 2 93 tune was quite good....with very little surging...almost none after a cam and trans reset....

Are you using the stock wiring or an extension harness to plug your 103mm tb in? Double check all the pins in the connector make sure they are seated...its starting to sound like to me your throttle body may have some issues....Contact Tony at support see if he will send you a known good one say off their test mule to try....if my daughter wasnt due for labor I'd swap with you a month to see.....

I mean nothing is as good as a Lund tune but the 93 stage 2 should just about be everyone's "OK" tune and in fact with MPG better too....by 3....( A10)....

Have you went WOT and shifted 2-3 on their 93 tune I'd like to see that log and compare them to mine....
Make sure the bypass vacuum line is fully seated and there are no cuts.....to me early early build aside most of the problems has been the engine cant hold the blower....
Stage 1 I didnt like that 200hp was added and not enough or anything was done to trans tune
But stage 2 93 was pretty darn good....surprisingly so....for a 50 states legal tune....28 plus mph on hwy too....
 
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I’m using the wiring harness that came with the EB Stage 2 kit. TB pins are good. I also clamped both ends of vacuum line before install. After reloading the tune, the throttle response is much better, but still not what I would expect from a PD blower. No more dead spot in the pedal travel, but it’s still not very responsive until about 90% pedal travel.
 

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I’m using the wiring harness that came with the EB Stage 2 kit. TB pins are good. I also clamped both ends of vacuum line before install. After reloading the tune, the throttle response is much better, but still not what I would expect from a PD blower. No more dead spot in the pedal travel, but it’s still not very responsive until about 90% pedal travel.
So strange buddy....try this buy an .035 nitrous jet....run up to oreillys and get a piece of vacuum line stick that jet in the like with a Philip's screw driver....( I tried everything from stock .015 to open) replace bypass line...this will get it into low boost quicker and should make the entire car more nimble without as much throttle....and doesnt void the warranty as they let you also run it open but I find open surges to much for street....
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