2018 Royal Crimson F1A94 Procharged, TH400 Drag Project

[TGGT]

I don't think I'm going to do a lick to the engine. Bounce it in the car and go for the rest of summer.

Planning to get a new damper hub from ATI and have them hone it for the tolerances of the crank I get in the long block. I'll need to get a good mic. They'll do it for $40. I'm going to add the Crank Saver Stud instead of the bolt I used (although I had no issues). Add new flex plate bolts, too.

Larger procharger pulley and belt, tone down the timing. Let'er eat off the footbrake.

Have you experienced a problem with the balancer hub? How much of an interference fit is it supposed to be? I’m a little concerned about this as well. I suppose I will mic both surfaces prior to install

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[turnswrench]

Have you experienced a problem with the balancer hub? How much of an interference fit is it supposed to be? I’m a little concerned about this as well. I suppose I will mic both surfaces prior to install

First time around I used digital calipers, and I was within the hundredths but had no clue at the thousandths or ten-thousandths. I used a proper install tool and no heat so I had complete confidence in the install, but I'm sure the tolerances weren't perfect. I don't want to risk this new crank so I want to be within spec.

 

[NGOT8R]

I don't think I'm going to do a lick to the engine. Bounce it in the car and go for the rest of summer.

Planning to get a new damper hub from ATI and have them hone it for the tolerances of the crank I get in the long block. I'll need to get a good mic. They'll do it for $40. I'm going to add the Crank Saver Stud instead of the bolt I used (although I had no issues). Add new flex plate bolts, too.

Larger procharger pulley and belt, tone down the timing. Let'er eat off the footbrake.

Will you still have enough power to run 9.90’s and get your license without making a pulley change? Eleven years ago, I got my NHRA License (for a drag bike) and I had to run at least a 9.90 or quicker. I haven’t checked as of late, but I don’t think the process has changed much; basically equipment familiarization and stair stepping up to making the full pass at speed. I hope you get your car back on the road soon and have some fun with it.

 

[turnswrench]

Will you still have enough power to run 9.90’s and get your license without making a pulley change? Eleven years ago, I got my NHRA License (for a drag bike) and I had to run at least a 9.90 or quicker. I haven’t checked as of late, but I don’t think the process has changed much; basically equipment familiarization and stair stepping up to making the full pass at speed. I hope you get your car back on the road soon and have some fun with it.

I'm thinking the car will 9.99 fairly easily. It ran 9.6 with less than 800whp. Thank you, me too.

 

[NGOT8R]

I'm thinking the car will 9.99 fairly easily. It ran 9.6 with less than 800whp. Thank you, me too.

Oh ok, well yes, you should be good on power then. Maybe you can practice that sixty and become really deadly on the tree. You can still knock some cars off for the win if they’re sleeping at the tree.

 

[turnswrench]

 

[turnswrench]

This is the guy! Mike at Autonation White Bear Lake made it happen. He even loaded the engine in the truck! Support those that support the garage warriors. Thank you @fordsvtparts

 

[turnswrench]

Got the injectors pulled apart and the injector cleaning form filled out for Injector Dynamics. Hoping to get them out by the end of next week to get cleaned. Should have them back by the end of July.

I've got an engine hoist lined up to borrow soon so that I can yank the cracked blocked and drop in the new engine. For now, it's stuck in the crate in the back of my truck

 

[turnswrench]

Injectors sent out to injector dynamics for inspecting and cleaning.

On the to do list (so far) :
Micrometer
ATI damper hub honed to spec
Larger Procharger pulley and belt
Break-in Oil/filter (just to be safe)
Oil change/filter
Trans fluid
Coolant
Exhaust manifold gaskets
ATI flexplate bolts
Crank saver stud

 

[turnswrench]

Putting my rc drag car up for sale. I built this earlier in the year and made about 4 or so test passes and haven't ran it since. There's a group that runs here, they get pretty rowdy, but I'm not giving up Friday evenings and primetime weekends for rc racing. I'd rather load the mustang up and go..

 

[TGGT]

Injectors sent out to injector dynamics for inspecting and cleaning.

On the to do list (so far) :
Micrometer
ATI damper hub honed to spec
Larger Procharger pulley and belt
Break-in Oil/filter (just to be safe)
Oil change/filter
Trans fluid
Coolant
Exhaust manifold gaskets
ATI flexplate bolts
Crank saver stud

I’m curious what your thoughts are on break in oil. I can’t decide between a legit break in oil or just running some conventional with an additive for 100 miles or so. Also looking at your list I just realized I totally forgot about flex plate bolts I guess I’ll be picking up a set of those too.

 

[turnswrench]

I’m curious what your thoughts are on break in oil. I can’t decide between a legit break in oil or just running some conventional with an additive for 100 miles or so. Also looking at your list I just realized I totally forgot about flex plate bolts I guess I’ll be picking up a set of those too.

The dealership couldn't tell me how these engine are used before they are sold. So once I get it installed, I'm going to see what drains out. It has an oil filter, so I assume it has oil in it? Can't tell yet. If it has nothing, doing a conventional break-in oil. If I drain it and can determine it had break-in oil in it and it was ran, I'll just put an oil change in it.

 

[fmc_smt]

The drop in engine , should have 5w20 semi in it . Should be full . Snap a picture of the filter for shits and grins .

 

[TGGT]

The dealership couldn't tell me how these engine are used before they are sold. So once I get it installed, I'm going to see what drains out. It has an oil filter, so I assume it has oil in it? Can't tell yet. If it has nothing, doing a conventional break-in oil. If I drain it and can determine it had break-in oil in it and it was ran, I'll just put an oil change in it.

I definitely don’t think they’ve been fired, but perhaps they are cold spun at the factory. I’ll be draining mine prior to install as I’ll be doing the opg’s, ts, and chains and tensioners. If oil comes out I may save that oil to run it initially, but I will probably search out an additive with some zinc

 

[fmc_smt]

If the oil filter is white with black square and a trash can with a X on it . They are a brand new engine. They will have 5w20 semi synthetic factory oil . Will be primed with zero run or static run time on the engine .

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