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2018-2019 Oil Pressures?

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NoVaGT

NoVaGT

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If it's any peace of mind, my longblock replacement ran on PP 5w30 from 25 miles. It ain't quiet, but it hauls ass and doesn't slurp oil. About 5k miles on it, now.
Well.....the fact you needed a long-block replacement is a bit disconcerting.

How did you break-in the original motor? Gentle? Rough?
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Dfeeds

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Well.....the fact you needed a long-block replacement is a bit disconcerting.

How did you break-in the original motor? What caused it to die?
Defective camshaft, one of the exhaust sides. Apparently it was pitted pretty deep and had scratches your finger would catch on. The intake cam was, apparently, just fine. I wish I had pictures but they kept telling me they didn't have any and, due to the car already sitting for two months, they had the engine swapped before I could sneeze. Listening to old videos I posted made it apparent, too. One start up video you can literally hear the grinding.

I kept original fill and drove the original like a grandma. New engine I dumped in the new oil and went at it. I waited (and still wait) for the oil temp to show just a smidge below the center (where it normally sits with regular driving) before doing anything, though. Not that the first engine failed due to improper break in, but I changed my methodology. Revved it high and let it engine break all the way back down several times. There's no empirical evidence but the oil mark on the dipstick didn't budge in 4k miles. I did a second oil change and the outcome has been the same. It's super noisy at start up and the rattle is embarrassingly loud when cold, especially next to a wall, but the engine is extremely quiet and smooth once warmed up.

I had a fluke circumstance. So don't use me as a rule.
 

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I was worried about mine early on too. Warm idle about 12psi, cruising 20-40psi I believe, and wot 90-100psi. I spent many hours scouring the internet to make sure it was normal. 18k miles later it is still taking the abuse well.

@NoVaGT .... what is the extra quart of oil for???
 
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Defective camshaft, one of the exhaust sides. Apparently it was pitted pretty deep and had scratches your finger would catch on. The intake cam was, apparently, just fine. I wish I had pictures but they kept telling me they didn't have any and, due to the car already sitting for two months, they had the engine swapped before I could sneeze. Listening to old videos I posted made it apparent, too. One start up video you can literally hear the grinding.

I kept original fill and drove the original like a grandma. New engine I dumped in the new oil and went at it. I waited (and still wait) for the oil temp to show just a smidge below the center (where it normally sits with regular driving) before doing anything, though. Not that the first engine failed due to improper break in, but I changed my methodology. Revved it high and let it engine break all the way back down several times. There's no empirical evidence but the oil mark on the dipstick didn't budge in 4k miles. I did a second oil change and the outcome has been the same. It's super noisy at start up and the rattle is embarrassingly loud when cold, especially next to a wall, but the engine is extremely quiet and smooth once warmed up.

I had a fluke circumstance. So don't use me as a rule.
I was worried because I've been following my own advice of breaking in a new engine by beating it like a red-headed step-child on a rented mule. With the oil pressures doing their thing, I was worried my own advice had bitten me in the ass.

I'm happy to hear Ford took care of you, and hope your new engine lasts for 800,000 miles!!!
 
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I was worried about mine early on too. Warm idle about 12psi, cruising 20-40psi I believe, and wot 90-100psi. I spent many hours scouring the internet to make sure it was normal. 18k miles later it is still taking the abuse well.

@NoVaGT .... what is the extra quart of oil for???
Thanks, that's what I needed to hear.

The extra quart is just extra. There's the possibility of filling the filter before it goes on (don't know if that's really necessary), and just for oil consumption between changes.
 

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Isn't the stock PP gauges mostly "dummy" gauges? Anyway, I switched to Mobil1 Synthetic 5W-30 at ~1,000 miles and have not looked back or even thought about it. I also installed JLT catch cans (both sides) the day I bought the car. It's not my daily driver so I only have about 4,000 miles.
 

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Thanks, that's what I needed to hear.

The extra quart is just extra. There's the possibility of filling the filter before it goes on (don't know if that's really necessary), and just for oil consumption between changes.
I fill my filter about half way from one of the 5 quart jugs first too. 10 quarts puts me right in the middle of the hash marks. About 4-5k later when I change my oil it's still really close to same point on the dipstick. My catch can usually has about an 1.5 oz of oil in it. I've never had to top it off between oil changes. This has been consistent everytime after 4 changes now.
 
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Isn't the stock PP gauges mostly "dummy" gauges? .......I also installed JLT catch cans (both sides) the day I bought the car.....
I do believe the oil pressure gauge is real.

.....My catch can usually has about an 1.5 oz of oil in it......
The catch cans; they're meant to stop oil vapors from getting into the intake system? I have read they stop engines from going into some sort of reduced power mode, is that correct?
 

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I do believe the oil pressure gauge is real.



The catch cans; they're meant to stop oil vapors from getting into the intake system? I have read they stop engines from going into so sort of reduced power mode, is that correct?
I dont think it's a reduced power mode but as that oil cakes up the intake valves it will reduce overall power of the engine. I only have the passenger side catch can. That's where most of the oil comes from what I've read on these engines.

The guage is real and not a dummy guage that some other cars have. It does have a slightly delayed reading, about a second or two. I know I've read why that is somewhere but I cant remember exactly why that is...:crazy:
 

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Well, that is good to know that the gauges are real. I typically never trust stock gauges and always relied on something from Autometer, etc. if I wanted to truly know oil pressure, etc.

As far as the reduced power mode. Not sure what that is but I agrees with Zrussian13 and you would eventually have reduced power or even lowered octane from all the oil that makes it into the intake. And without a catch can, there is a lot of oil going to get in your intake on these cars. When I changed my oil the first time at 1,000 miles, I couldn't believe how much oil was in the passenger catch can and that first 1,000 miles were mostly "break-in" miles. I am going to check the catch can this Saturday before I go to the drag strip this weekend and see how much has collected in the last 3,000 miles.
 

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Thanks, that's what I needed to hear.

The extra quart is just extra. There's the possibility of filling the filter before it goes on (don't know if that's really necessary), and just for oil consumption between changes.
First oil change I did, I also had 11 qts. Prefilled filter about half way or what I thought was half way.....and made a huge mess putting new one in.

Second oil change used my valve instead of plug and holy crap I'll never us a plug again! Put a splash of oil in the filter mainly to lube the o ring and had now mess or issues. The 11th qt still sits on a shelf unopened lol.

Valve used: https://roninfactory.com/collections/ford/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
 

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I was worried because I've been following my own advice of breaking in a new engine by beating it like a red-headed step-child on a rented mule. With the oil pressures doing their thing, I was worried my own advice had bitten me in the ass.

I'm happy to hear Ford took care of you, and hope your new engine lasts for 800,000 miles!!!
The break in does involve the whole car. Transmission gears, rear axle gears, suspension, etc. I wasn't as delicate because I already had babied it for the first 1000 miles. Not saying you're doing anything wrong. There's many different philosophies. Hell, the manual for the GT500 specifies a 100 mile break in period. But just consider that the break in is for the entire car.

And thanks! I do as well. Ford definitely did take care of me. The dealer, on the other hand, put up a fight, but in the end it worked out.
 

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It does? How many miles on your car?

I'm just trying to settle my concerns over the pressures. The car runs great, like a freight-train. The pressures just concern me.
Somewhere around 5000 miles. If things go right tomorrow will be a mileage reset and I can tell you how another 19 acts.
 
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Somewhere around 5000 miles. If things go right tomorrow will be a mileage reset and I can tell you how another 19 acts.
Well, thanks for the info. I'm relieved.

ETA; I knew that the difference in oil pressures was due to something Ford had changed with the pump. I didn't know for sure, but I figured that had to be the answer, before I started this thread.
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