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2016, passenger window opening and closing by itself

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DeepImpactS550

DeepImpactS550

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My car is going back Monday to resolve this and radio issue. Had a meeting with the service advisor, his boss and the shop manager. Gave them copies from this thread and the other ones relating to the radio. Car has been on over a dozen times for these two issues in the last 18 months. They fix the window, works for a couple of days and then down 1/4 inch. Sometimes a little bouncing.

You need to go back to the dealer and have them make it right.
After having a really terrible experience with another service manager who basically ignored me for 3 weeks, in spite of having the (special ordered) window motor sitting on the shelf, my new advisor has been more than helpful. He was very apologetic, even offered to give me a loaner car on Monday and detail/wash my car for my trouble.

But it sounds like your window is doing the exact same thing as mine. It eventually gave up and permanently dropped 1/4" . It had been like that for several months before I could finally get it to the dealer. I'm curious if your dealer ever suggested the door switch/sensor. Mine went straight to the motor, and $400 quote. I've also read that there's some kind of door module that could be reset, or maybe is failing. I even invested in a vLinker Bluetooth OBD2 dongle, and the FORScan mobile app. It's supposed to be able to reset all of the vehicle modules. Guess what? No door module was listed. Maybe I can at least use it to datalog the low RPM stumble/misfire I'm getting. Yet another problem that the dealer could not troubleshoot.

It's almost like there's a single shorted wire somewhere. I don't have the "door ajar" warning on the dash, but it's acting like I've half-pulled the door handle, permanently. You'd think the interior lights would also be on, if that's what's happening.

Either way, LMK what happens with yours on Monday.
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greggsg

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After having a really terrible experience with another service manager who basically ignored me for 3 weeks, in spite of having the (special ordered) window motor sitting on the shelf, my new advisor has been more than helpful. He was very apologetic, even offered to give me a loaner car on Monday and detail/wash my car for my trouble.

But it sounds like your window is doing the exact same thing as mine. It eventually gave up and permanently dropped 1/4" . It had been like that for several months before I could finally get it to the dealer. I'm curious if your dealer ever suggested the door switch/sensor. Mine went straight to the motor, and $400 quote. I've also read that there's some kind of door module that could be reset, or maybe is failing. I even invested in a vLinker Bluetooth OBD2 dongle, and the FORScan mobile app. It's supposed to be able to reset all of the vehicle modules. Guess what? No door module was listed. Maybe I can at least use it to datalog the low RPM stumble/misfire I'm getting. Yet another problem that the dealer could not troubleshoot.

It's almost like there's a single shorted wire somewhere. I don't have the "door ajar" warning on the dash, but it's acting like I've half-pulled the door handle, permanently. You'd think the interior lights would also be on, if that's what's happening.

Either way, LMK what happens with yours on Monday.
Car is still at the shop. I had to get some things out of the trunk, as I won't have it for my road trip to Orlando and Sarasota this week and will be putting the miles on a rental Malibu....

Below are pics taken of the door panel apart and the touch screen and APIM removed. I have been having a SiriusXM issue since day one and dealer scratched the screen. When replacing the screen, they accidentally put in a 2019/20 APIM that was supposed to go into someone else's Lincoln. Got the car back with all Sirius/XM saying Not Available, thinking it was an F-150, no climate control, Ford logo on startup/shutdown instead of Mustang and it now had Navigiation.

Will update next week when I am back in town.

1607491737821.png


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DeepImpactS550

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Car is still at the shop. I had to get some things out of the trunk, as I won't have it for my road trip to Orlando and Sarasota this week and will be putting the miles on a rental Malibu....

Below are pics taken of the door panel apart and the touch screen and APIM removed. I have been having a SiriusXM issue since day one and dealer scratched the screen. When replacing the screen, they accidentally put in a 2019/20 APIM that was supposed to go into someone else's Lincoln. Got the car back with all Sirius/XM saying Not Available, thinking it was an F-150, no climate control, Ford logo on startup/shutdown instead of Mustang and it now had Navigiation.

Will update next week when I am back in town.
Wow, they really have yours torn apart. I'd be nervous seeing those pics. I would have also made them replace the screen if they scratched it. Mine has the basic display, so I don't even think XM is an option. V6's really got the shaft in 2016 as far as available options. 051A Equipment Group, with Blade spoiler, Fog lights, power driver seat, and 18" Foundry wheels, is literally the ONLY option package, other than 3:55 gears, which also requires 051A.

Mine appears to officially be fixed. After finally getting the window motor replaced, things are working normally. Now I just have to shampoo and extract the carpet behind the passenger seat from months of rain water and musky odor.

Good luck with yours. Hopefully the motor is the problem. FWIW, My dealer had two part numbers. The more expensive one is apparently the one you want. The early, cheaper part number, is the one prone to failure.
 
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Been through this. It is water in the motor plug. The simple fix is to blow dry the plug and pack it with dielectric grease.
 

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Wow, they really have yours torn apart. I'd be nervous seeing those pics. I would have also made them replace the screen if they scratched it. Mine has the basic display, so I don't even think XM is an option. V6's really got the shaft in 2016 as far as available options. 051A Equipment Group, with Blade spoiler, Fog lights, power driver seat, and 18" Foundry wheels, is literally the ONLY option package, other than 3:55 gears, which also requires 051A.

Mine appears to officially be fixed. After finally getting the window motor replaced, things are working normally. Now I just have to shampoo and extract the carpet behind the passenger seat from months of rain water and musky odor.

Good luck with yours. Hopefully the motor is the problem. FWIW, My dealer had two part numbers. The more expensive one is apparently the one you want. The early, cheaper part number, is the one prone to failure.
So the 15/16 convertibles are not supposed to have auto-up on the drivers side. After they replaced the motor the first time, I suddenly had it. I told them that it should be disabled and showed them the manual as well.....
 

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Been through this. It is water in the motor plug. The simple fix is to blow dry the plug and pack it with dielectric grease.

They have done that 3 times and redid so e wiring last attempt.

Will see the results of this trip next week. I'm just bummed I couldn't drive to Orlando tonight with the top down, seat warmer and heat on.....
 

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I live in Japan and I’m having the same issue reported in this thread, plus one more strange thing: sometimes my window goes down when pressing the switch to go up. It’s a random occurrence.

I’m thinking new motor, but I don’t know how to find the part number. No official Ford dealers here anymore, so I need to order the part from the US. Anything else I need? Just the motor is enough?
Thanks!!!
 
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Reviving my own dead thread with an update. If you missed my last post, the dealer did replace it under warranty. Ironically they screwed up, replaced the driver side, then had to go back and replace the passenger side under warranty :p

No problems in months, and I thought all was well. But now, what, 2 years later, and with another hurricane and 3-4 days of rain, it's doing the same thing again, but not quite as bad. If I can get it to momentarily close all the way, the reset procedure will fix it for a few hours to a few days.

I bought a Powerbass OEM door speaker/tweeter upgrade kit. I'll be taking the door panel off, and the speaker out. Supposedly I can get to the connector at that stage. I'll be blowing it out with air and filling with dielectric grease to see if i can solve this for good. This is the side where my speaker blew. I'd wonder if water was getting into the speaker as well.
 
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I live in Japan and I’m having the same issue reported in this thread, plus one more strange thing: sometimes my window goes down when pressing the switch to go up. It’s a random occurrence.

I’m thinking new motor, but I don’t know how to find the part number. No official Ford dealers here anymore, so I need to order the part from the US. Anything else I need? Just the motor is enough?
Thanks!!!
I believe the motor is geared, so you wouldn't need the regulator. I'm not 100% sure on that, though.
 

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I'll be blowing it out with air and filling with dielectric grease
Unfortunately when the water shorts out the control board you will need to replace the motor again. I tried just the grease and it lasted about 9 months.

You can get to the plug with the speaker installed
I believe the motor is geared, so you wouldn't need the regulator.
Yes the motor can be replaced with out the regulator. The top bolt is a pain. I just drilled a hole to access it. This way you don't have to re-align the glass.
 

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Unfortunately when the water shorts out the control board you will need to replace the motor again. I tried just the grease and it lasted about 9 months.

You can get to the plug with the speaker installed

Yes the motor can be replaced with out the regulator. The top bolt is a pain. I just drilled a hole to access it. This way you don't have to re-align the glass.
That's a shame about the control board. It seems water intrusion is fairly common on these cars. Mine is still at the point where it will work properly for days at a time, then start randomly acting up. Hopefully if I can get the grease installed before it gets worse, I can save the control board. The dealer mentioned something about a warranty on their repair, but it probably doesn't last 2 years.
 

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Mine is still at the point where it will work properly for days at a time, then start randomly acting up. Hopefully if I can get the grease installed before it gets worse, I can save the control board.
I tried this first. It lasted about 6 months and I then had to replace the motor. I hate doing things twice.
 
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I tried this first. It lasted about 6 months and I then had to replace the motor. I hate doing things twice.
So far so good after changing speakers. I filled it with so much dielectric grease I had to clamp the connector together to get it to click into place. It's been working normally ever since. It had been sitting in the "dropped" position the entire day before I did it.
 

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I filled it with so much dielectric grease I had to clamp the connector together to get it to click into place. It's been working normally ever since.
My educated guess is it will be fine for about 6 to 9 months. Hope it is permanent for you. If/when you need to change the motor fill it with more grease.
 
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My educated guess is it will be fine for about 6 to 9 months. Hope it is permanent for you. If/when you need to change the motor fill it with more grease.
That's about the time frame I expected to be upgrading to custom 6.5" components with a dedicated amp. Thank you for the perspective, though. Let's hope it's a permanent fix.

FWIW, I saw ZERO signs of water inside the connector or around it. . I didn't even have to blow it out.
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