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Chad11491

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I have two tunes, one with the rear sensors off and one with them on. I'm currently running the tune with them on and still have no check engine light. It's been about 6 months now running that tune.

Inspection is all based on where you are. Where I am in Texas in Williamson county, there's no emissions, no visual, just safety inspection. I have to be able to pass the OBDII test on startup and with the rear O2's off, you fail instantly. I run catted headers more for the rasp reduction and the possibility of having to do visual inspections or an emissions test in the future if anything changes. We're talking negligible horsepower differences between both catless and catted.

If you have visual inspection, definitely go with the cats.
did you have to do anything crazy to keep the O2's from tripping like spacers or whatnot? That's really awesome they're not tripping.
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Zelek

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did you have to do anything crazy to keep the O2's from tripping like spacers or whatnot? That's really awesome they're not tripping.
Nope, nothing at all. Just trusted Lund on his word with it, but I have the backup tune just in case. Better having it during the free update period than ask for it later and have to pay to get it.
 

Lonmon

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I would do a IM first. CJ>GT350>18mani>Boss>Stock in my opinion. Best daily IM to retain the IMRC would be the GT350. Then cat delete pipes (on a budget) or longtubes. I only saw a very small increase from the cat deletes to the headers. Huge price difference though especially if you don't install them yourself. The MBRP street catback is decent with either Mak cat deletes or headers. I was running a Stainless works catback when I first did the cat deletes and it was ridiculously loud, I added HF cats and it was still way too loud. Then I switched to the MBRP street and it was reasonable, just loud when on the throttle. The headers didn't really make it noticeably worse then the deletes. Sound was good with just a little rasp at the higher rpms, a resonated x-pipe would take care of that and make it less obnoxious.
 

aleccesarenriquez

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Similar situation with me. Just have a canned SCT tune and MBRP street catback as well. I ended up starting with suspension work first.

It's not fair for me to say "definitely go with suspension stuff first" since I haven't tried the HP gains route yet, so think of this as just some some info on what I happened to start with.

I recently got sp080s installed (1" spacers all around), along with the cradle lockout kit (cb005) and the diff bushing lockout kit (bk051). Also picked up a set of MP4S to replace the Pirellis.

Night and day difference in terms of hooking. Like I didn't realize 1st gear could have a purpose. Can't tell you how fun it is to actually effectively put stock power down. I'm not sure if what I did is overkill for stock power, but nevertheless it seems absolutely worth it.

One thing though is I notice a clunky sound now when I shift (similar to that typical thud, but more pronounced) and gear whine around 50 mph. I think it's the diff bushings so if you are picky about nvh, probably avoid those.

Also, in terms of looks, the springs and spacers are nearly perfect. Will probably get 23 mm spacers for the rear down the line since there is a tire little poke in the rear fender, but otherwise you'd be hard pressed to find a better looking stance for the price (obviously IMO; keep in mind the drop would is more mild than sportlines for example, but I'd definitely do some spring research and see what you end up liking!).

Anyways, if you end up getting LTs, would love to hear what kind and how they sound. They will probably be my next investment (I'll probably pair them with a flex fuel tune and cai to maximize the efficiency of the tune).
 
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Duffie112

Duffie112

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Good to hear your feedback man! I’m going to do some suspension and IrS components next I think then spring for some long tubes in a few months. I would also like to be able to use 1st gear lol.
 

gameovergt

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Similar situation with me. Just have a canned SCT tune and MBRP street catback as well. I ended up starting with suspension work first.

It's not fair for me to say "definitely go with suspension stuff first" since I haven't tried the HP gains route yet, so think of this as just some some info on what I happened to start with.

I recently got sp080s installed (1" spacers all around), along with the cradle lockout kit (cb005) and the diff bushing lockout kit (bk051). Also picked up a set of MP4S to replace the Pirellis.

Night and day difference in terms of hooking. Like I didn't realize 1st gear could have a purpose. Can't tell you how fun it is to actually effectively put stock power down. I'm not sure if what I did is overkill for stock power, but nevertheless it seems absolutely worth it.

One thing though is I notice a clunky sound now when I shift (similar to that typical thud, but more pronounced) and gear whine around 50 mph. I think it's the diff bushings so if you are picky about nvh, probably avoid those.

Also, in terms of looks, the springs and spacers are nearly perfect. Will probably get 23 mm spacers for the rear down the line since there is a tire little poke in the rear fender, but otherwise you'd be hard pressed to find a better looking stance for the price (obviously IMO; keep in mind the drop would is more mild than sportlines for example, but I'd definitely do some spring research and see what you end up liking!).

Anyways, if you end up getting LTs, would love to hear what kind and how they sound. They will probably be my next investment (I'll probably pair them with a flex fuel tune and cai to maximize the efficiency of the tune).
you are going in the right direction. I should have done suspension first. Gotta get the Adjustable differential bushing inserts in, subframe alignment, and Steeda IRS subframe braces on. Not enough time this weekend. The Steeda struts/shocks/springs have taken away all the hood shake at speed, car feels like a go cart now. Very solid.
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