Need Advise on Next steps for Power on 2015 GT Manual

Discussion in 'V8 5.0L Engine / Mods: Bolt-ons, Exhaust, Tuning' started by joker4798, Dec 9, 2019.

  1. joker4798

    joker4798 New Member

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    Need solid advise

    South bend Stage 3 twin disc clutch, Mbrp Street cat back, Pedders Sway and Coils, vertical links, cradle lockout kit, Ford performance toe links, front strut tower. C&L cold air intake with tune Nitto 555 315rears and 275 fronts

    I want to make more power? Need RECOMMENDATIONS ...
    My plan---
    (mbar cat-less headers with fuel pump upgrade, Injectors that will be able to handle forced induction and tune everything together with e85) I would think horsepower numbers would be roughly 500 to the wheels. Also wondering if I should change manifolds because I plan on installing procharger. This is my daily driver kinda.

    Thanks everyone any advice is awesome, I plan on road coursing this car.
     
  2. Shifting_Gears

    Shifting_Gears Well-Known Member

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    There’s a lot of great info on here regarding bolt on setups and proven ways to make power. With that being said, 500 WHEEL horsepower won’t happen on a Gen II Coyote without opening up the engine.

    Full bolt on, longtube, intake swapped and E85 with a great tune may net around 450rwhp.

    Longtube headers will help NA or forced induction, so if that’s on your list it would be beneficial either way.
     
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  3. Bladerunner70

    Bladerunner70 Banned

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    1. Long tube headers or MAK cat-deletes
    2. 2018+ intake manifold (plus your C&L cold-air-intake)
    3. 47 lbs injectors
    4. LUND E85 tune

    Done
     
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  4. BrianGT2015

    BrianGT2015 Well-Known Member

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    Your looking for bolt on's to achieve 500 whp... "Bolt on" a Whipple, or some spooly boys.
     
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  5. OP
    OP
    joker4798

    joker4798 New Member

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    When you say opening the engine are you talking adding forced induction? I plan to add forged products where needed for procharger but with high pressure air in, i want to maintain a low pressure so I don't blow out the bottom. Is a pro charger adequate for track applications?
     
  6. Shifting_Gears

    Shifting_Gears Well-Known Member

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    No, I mean as in cams/ported heads. For a Gen II Coyote that’s what it would take for 500RWHP naturally aspirated and that would be a very aggressive setup.

    As far as forced induction, you really want to decide what type of desire you have for the power.

    Any positive displacement supercharger (Whipple, Roush, etc.) will have massive power anywhere in the RPM. A centrifugal supercharger (Procharger, Vortech, etc.) will behave more like a turbo as they build linear boost with higher RPM.

    Generally a stock internal coyote will handle 6-700rwhp (or more in many cases) ok assuming you have a very dialed in tune and your fuel system is appropriate for those power levels.

    If you want BIG power, of course building the engine is the way to go.
     
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  7. Rick80james

    Rick80james Member

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    My old 15pp FBO made 474 whp!
    Headers,exhaust,gt350 mani,47lb inj,cai,E85 and tune
     
  8. BrianGT2015

    BrianGT2015 Well-Known Member

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    as much as I would love to have a 500 whp naturally aspirated I just can't see spending the money to make "just" 500 at the tire. I mean I used to be all about this however, Growing up and getting wiser I believe just throwing on a good roots style is pretty good.
     
  9. Fenrir

    Fenrir Member

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    Correct me if i'm wrong, (new here) but my understanding of the Gen 2 Coyote is that they LOVE air. The more you give em the more power they put out with pretty minimal effort. I don't know if i'll have to replace the pistons and rings or anything but my plan is to put the Roush on there and just take a lower level of boost say 9 or 10 psi. I want to keep it conservative but my goal is 650 rwhp.
     
  10. Bladerunner70

    Bladerunner70 Banned

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    The Coyote loves more air due to the fantastic 4 valve heads. More valves means more surface area to move air through.

    A stock Gen 2 Coyote will live happily at 650 rwhp..., but the tune has to be on point, which isn't a problem with a well-known, well-respected tuner such as LUND, AED, PBD, or VMP. If you are going FI, and use crappy fuel or a suspect tune then you can always run the risk of chucking a rod, or breaking an upper ring land on a piston.
     
  11. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    As I understand it and there is a thread going on here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/going-for-500whp-n-a.81848/

    The setup is as follow:

    full ARH Exhaust
    Stage 3 Cams
    CJ IM
    CJ Twin 65 TB
    JLT Cold Air Intake
    Lund Tune

    And I think this is the ultimate road course route for a Gen 2 GT.
     
  12. Fenrir

    Fenrir Member

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    I'm really just trying to put myself on the same road course performance level of what my 1LE was. So at this point I need a moderate bump in horse power and I need to get the suspension, wheels+wraps, and downforce right. It's going to be an education switching to a different maker.
     
  13. Avispa

    Avispa Well-Known Member

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    Do that ^. Not much else needs to be changed. You'll still be able to use the car for your DD if that's what you want. Starts up perfectly, idles smoothly in traffic, no overheating, no stalling, no slipping the clutch to take off from a dead stop (or a high stall converter).
     
  14. Bladerunner70

    Bladerunner70 Banned

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    Are you trying to accomplish this with a convertible? Your sig says '16 GT convertible.
     
  15. bnightstar

    bnightstar Well-Known Member

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    He said road course the thing is superchargers are not great on the road course (GT500 excluded) because of heat. So someone like me who loves to road course his mustang is looking into the maximum HP out of the N/A engine in order to drive faster without overheating anything.
     
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