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Need Advise on Next steps for Power on 2015 GT Manual

joker4798

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South bend Stage 3 twin disc clutch, Mbrp Street cat back, Pedders Sway and Coils, vertical links, cradle lockout kit, Ford performance toe links, front strut tower. C&L cold air intake with tune Nitto 555 315rears and 275 fronts

I want to make more power? Need RECOMMENDATIONS ...
My plan---
(mbar cat-less headers with fuel pump upgrade, Injectors that will be able to handle forced induction and tune everything together with e85) I would think horsepower numbers would be roughly 500 to the wheels. Also wondering if I should change manifolds because I plan on installing procharger. This is my daily driver kinda.

Thanks everyone any advice is awesome, I plan on road coursing this car.
 

Shifting_Gears

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There’s a lot of great info on here regarding bolt on setups and proven ways to make power. With that being said, 500 WHEEL horsepower won’t happen on a Gen II Coyote without opening up the engine.

Full bolt on, longtube, intake swapped and E85 with a great tune may net around 450rwhp.

Longtube headers will help NA or forced induction, so if that’s on your list it would be beneficial either way.
 

Bladerunner70

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1. Long tube headers or MAK cat-deletes
2. 2018+ intake manifold (plus your C&L cold-air-intake)
3. 47 lbs injectors
4. LUND E85 tune

Done
 

BrianGT2015

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Your looking for bolt on's to achieve 500 whp... "Bolt on" a Whipple, or some spooly boys.
 

joker4798

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There’s a lot of great info on here regarding bolt on setups and proven ways to make power. With that being said, 500 WHEEL horsepower won’t happen on a Gen II Coyote without opening up the engine.

Full bolt on, longtube, intake swapped and E85 with a great tune may net around 450rwhp.

Longtube headers will help NA or forced induction, so if that’s on your list it would be beneficial either way.
When you say opening the engine are you talking adding forced induction? I plan to add forged products where needed for procharger but with high pressure air in, i want to maintain a low pressure so I don't blow out the bottom. Is a pro charger adequate for track applications?
 

Shifting_Gears

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When you say opening the engine are you talking adding forced induction? I plan to add forged products where needed for procharger but with high pressure air in, i want to maintain a low pressure so I don't blow out the bottom. Is a pro charger adequate for track applications?
No, I mean as in cams/ported heads. For a Gen II Coyote that’s what it would take for 500RWHP naturally aspirated and that would be a very aggressive setup.

As far as forced induction, you really want to decide what type of desire you have for the power.

Any positive displacement supercharger (Whipple, Roush, etc.) will have massive power anywhere in the RPM. A centrifugal supercharger (Procharger, Vortech, etc.) will behave more like a turbo as they build linear boost with higher RPM.

Generally a stock internal coyote will handle 6-700rwhp (or more in many cases) ok assuming you have a very dialed in tune and your fuel system is appropriate for those power levels.

If you want BIG power, of course building the engine is the way to go.
 

Rick80james

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Need solid advise

South bend Stage 3 twin disc clutch, Mbrp Street cat back, Pedders Sway and Coils, vertical links, cradle lockout kit, Ford performance toe links, front strut tower. C&L cold air intake with tune Nitto 555 315rears and 275 fronts

I want to make more power? Need RECOMMENDATIONS ...
My plan---
(mbar cat-less headers with fuel pump upgrade, Injectors that will be able to handle forced induction and tune everything together with e85) I would think horsepower numbers would be roughly 500 to the wheels. Also wondering if I should change manifolds because I plan on installing procharger. This is my daily driver kinda.

Thanks everyone any advice is awesome, I plan on road coursing this car.
My old 15pp FBO made 474 whp!
Headers,exhaust,gt350 mani,47lb inj,cai,E85 and tune
 

BrianGT2015

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as much as I would love to have a 500 whp naturally aspirated I just can't see spending the money to make "just" 500 at the tire. I mean I used to be all about this however, Growing up and getting wiser I believe just throwing on a good roots style is pretty good.
 

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Fenrir

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as much as I would love to have a 500 whp naturally aspirated I just can't see spending the money to make "just" 500 at the tire. I mean I used to be all about this however, Growing up and getting wiser I believe just throwing on a good roots style is pretty good.
Correct me if i'm wrong, (new here) but my understanding of the Gen 2 Coyote is that they LOVE air. The more you give em the more power they put out with pretty minimal effort. I don't know if i'll have to replace the pistons and rings or anything but my plan is to put the Roush on there and just take a lower level of boost say 9 or 10 psi. I want to keep it conservative but my goal is 650 rwhp.
 

Bladerunner70

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Correct me if i'm wrong, (new here) but my understanding of the Gen 2 Coyote is that they LOVE air. The more you give em the more power they put out with pretty minimal effort. I don't know if i'll have to replace the pistons and rings or anything but my plan is to put the Roush on there and just take a lower level of boost say 9 or 10 psi. I want to keep it conservative but my goal is 650 rwhp.
The Coyote loves more air due to the fantastic 4 valve heads. More valves means more surface area to move air through.

A stock Gen 2 Coyote will live happily at 650 rwhp..., but the tune has to be on point, which isn't a problem with a well-known, well-respected tuner such as LUND, AED, PBD, or VMP. If you are going FI, and use crappy fuel or a suspect tune then you can always run the risk of chucking a rod, or breaking an upper ring land on a piston.
 

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Fenrir

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As I understand it and there is a thread going on here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/going-for-500whp-n-a.81848/

The setup is as follow:

full ARH Exhaust
Stage 3 Cams
CJ IM
CJ Twin 65 TB
JLT Cold Air Intake
Lund Tune

And I think this is the ultimate road course route for a Gen 2 GT.
I'm really just trying to put myself on the same road course performance level of what my 1LE was. So at this point I need a moderate bump in horse power and I need to get the suspension, wheels+wraps, and downforce right. It's going to be an education switching to a different maker.
 

Avispa

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Your looking for bolt on's to achieve 500 whp... "Bolt on" a Whipple, or some spooly boys.
Do that ^. Not much else needs to be changed. You'll still be able to use the car for your DD if that's what you want. Starts up perfectly, idles smoothly in traffic, no overheating, no stalling, no slipping the clutch to take off from a dead stop (or a high stall converter).
 

Bladerunner70

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I'm really just trying to put myself on the same road course performance level of what my 1LE was. So at this point I need a moderate bump in horse power and I need to get the suspension, wheels+wraps, and downforce right. It's going to be an education switching to a different maker.
Are you trying to accomplish this with a convertible? Your sig says '16 GT convertible.
 

bnightstar

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Do that ^. Not much else needs to be changed. You'll still be able to use the car for your DD if that's what you want. Starts up perfectly, idles smoothly in traffic, no overheating, no stalling, no slipping the clutch to take off from a dead stop (or a high stall converter).
He said road course the thing is superchargers are not great on the road course (GT500 excluded) because of heat. So someone like me who loves to road course his mustang is looking into the maximum HP out of the N/A engine in order to drive faster without overheating anything.
 

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