Bline
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Thanks in advance. long post.
2016 Mustang Premium 2.3L, with bolt-on mods; 92k miles - no warranty remaining
Oil changed approximately 400 miles ago using the correct weight Ford MotorCraft Synthetic Blend while on a trip (previous oil changes were full synthetic)
My daughter had me come look at her 16 ecoboost as it was running rough (not firing on all cylinders), but there were no CEL or wrench on the dash. I hooked up my scan tool, and no codes were present. I could smell gas almost immediately as I approached her car. I opened the hood and found gas on top of her engine (no engine cover), a mess of fuel spray beneath her intake manifold at the fuel injection rail, and lower strut tower.
She also stated she did not see smoke but states her exhaust smells like a rotten pumpkin.
With everything I discovered from a basic inspection, I believe she needs a complete engine teardown and rebuild as fuel has contaminated the oil, and most oil required lubricated internals. As well as the turbo. Oil breakdown and separation are obvious. The oil, hot and cold, has the same consistency as cooking oil. And what appears to be a severe headgasket issue is leaking fuel. Lots of bad things are visible.
I am hoping I am wrong. I think purchasing a used low-mileage motor or a new replacement would be cheaper.
Any additional advice, opinions, thoughts, or things I've missed?
Also, would a 2018 or newer (or new) ecoboost motor be a direct swap (plug and play) using the current wiring and bolt ons?
2016 Mustang Premium 2.3L, with bolt-on mods; 92k miles - no warranty remaining
Oil changed approximately 400 miles ago using the correct weight Ford MotorCraft Synthetic Blend while on a trip (previous oil changes were full synthetic)
My daughter had me come look at her 16 ecoboost as it was running rough (not firing on all cylinders), but there were no CEL or wrench on the dash. I hooked up my scan tool, and no codes were present. I could smell gas almost immediately as I approached her car. I opened the hood and found gas on top of her engine (no engine cover), a mess of fuel spray beneath her intake manifold at the fuel injection rail, and lower strut tower.
She also stated she did not see smoke but states her exhaust smells like a rotten pumpkin.
- I checked the oil, and for recently having the oil changed the fuel looked very clear and had a strong smell of fuel. I dabbed the dipstick on a napkin, and the oil stayed centered while the fuel separated and ran from the oil.
- I checked the oil catch can, and it was basically fuel, and hardly oil or oil residue present.
- I removed her intake housing from the throttle body, and the inlet was full of oil going into the throttle body.
- I removed her intake composite manifold to access the injector rail. The rail was covered in fuel but was secured tight.
- HPFL connection feeding back to the HPFP, and the fuel sensor were dry, tight, and no obvious signs of leaks or damage.
- I removed the turbo inlet boot and found oil inside the turbo boot and the turbo. The impellers and sprindle turned as they should with no extra play discovered.
- Removed the oil feed line from the turbo and found the same results, mostly fuel in the oil line.
- Removed the injector rail and found oil in the injector port
- Closer inspection found fuel leaking from what appears to be the headgasket on the driver's side. near the fuel injection rail.
- Coolant was also below the minimum.
- Injectors appeared to be darker than usual in color
With everything I discovered from a basic inspection, I believe she needs a complete engine teardown and rebuild as fuel has contaminated the oil, and most oil required lubricated internals. As well as the turbo. Oil breakdown and separation are obvious. The oil, hot and cold, has the same consistency as cooking oil. And what appears to be a severe headgasket issue is leaking fuel. Lots of bad things are visible.
I am hoping I am wrong. I think purchasing a used low-mileage motor or a new replacement would be cheaper.
Any additional advice, opinions, thoughts, or things I've missed?
Also, would a 2018 or newer (or new) ecoboost motor be a direct swap (plug and play) using the current wiring and bolt ons?
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