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14x1.5 TITANIUM wheel lug nuts

Hack

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The rim isn't the factor rather but the total clamp force deemed necessary, and as such stud size, etc. Nuts should be sacrificial as opposed to the stud but it doesn't always work out that way. An OEM will determine a torque factor based on the stud size, material, and thread pitch that gives them the amount of clamp force (and ultimately, friction) they are looking for. In the end, it's all about preload or fastener stretch. Required clamp force will typically be somewhere around 65% of fastener proof load stress, a figure that is well below the yield point of the fastener.

Fastener science is indeed interesting. My only recommendation here is to avoid impact wrenching your wheels, ever.
Well said. For the torque recommendation to be lower, that would mean that the thread and/or seat friction is lower on the titanium nuts. Basically you are achieving the same amount of stretch on the wheel studs with a reduced amount of torque on the lugs.

It makes sense to me that titanium would be sacrificial as it is a relatively soft material. That may also be why the torque is lower - some kind of self lubricating quality in the titanium lug.
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DrumReaper

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I run the ZL1 Addons set. No issues so far. Torqued to 148 lbs. only recommendation is to be sure to use a deep socket. These are open ended and threaded all the way through to accommodate extended lug nuts


You have a weak link there amongst your titanium lugs. That factory wheel lock does nothing to protect your wheel from theft... I was able to remove mine without the lock key in 5 seconds.
 

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You may want to share why you weren't able to use the lock key. I know why but others may not...
 

Forgedwheeler

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Well said. For the torque recommendation to be lower, that would mean that the thread and/or seat friction is lower on the titanium nuts. Basically you are achieving the same amount of stretch on the wheel studs with a reduced amount of torque on the lugs.

It makes sense to me that titanium would be sacrificial as it is a relatively soft material. That may also be why the torque is lower - some kind of self lubricating quality in the titanium lug.
Grade 5 6AL4V Titanium bolts and nuts have a nominal tensile strength of 150,000 PSI. This is well below the tensile strength of the steel nuts supplied by Ford. However, Grade 5 titanium nuts are certainly strong enough for this application.
Titanium has a different preload requirement because it stretches differently than steel. I wouldn't be too concerned about galling unless titanium is threaded into titanium.
75-80 Ft lbs is adequate for the 1/2/20 titanium nuts, but I would follow the manufacturers recommendation. if you want really top quality, I would look at Poggipolini or Tikore.
 

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Shift

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The rim isn't the factor rather but the total clamp force deemed necessary, and as such stud size, etc. Nuts should be sacrificial as opposed to the stud but it doesn't always work out that way. An OEM will determine a torque factor based on the stud size, material, and thread pitch that gives them the amount of clamp force (and ultimately, friction) they are looking for. In the end, it's all about preload or fastener stretch. Required clamp force will typically be somewhere around 65% of fastener proof load stress, a figure that is well below the yield point of the fastener.




The plus/minus tolerance is 15. That means the range is from 135 to 165. Too little torque and you risk fatigue from improper preload on the fastener. Too much and the fastener may yield and fail. Also of importance is the amount of friction in the joint (Is rust present? If so, how much? Was a thread lubricant used? Etc.). In addition, all of this assumes the installer has a properly calibrated torque wrench and is applying the torque to the joint properly when tightening.

Fastener science is indeed interesting. My only recommendation here is to avoid impact wrenching your wheels, ever.


What's your thoughts on torque for aftermarket wheels? Paul @ PK Auto has recommended 100ft/lbs on my aftermarket Forged wheels using the stock studs and aftermarket spline lug nuts. I haven't had any issues with his torque spec.
 

RustedAngel

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I've the Ozmo Ti lug nuts on my car and have for ~3000 miles or so now. Used the recommended Anti-Seize and used a Torque Angle to determine the correct torque with the anti-seize applied. It comes out to roughly 135ft/lbs. As a precaution, I added windage marks on the studs and nuts to check for movement, of which, during several full track sessions and ~5 Auto-X days, have not observed movement nor galling, on either the OEM Carbon wheels, or Forgelines.
 

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try714

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What is a good brand to buy?
 

FogcitySF

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Tikor make some top notch Ti lugs (high tensile and shear strength), you can even have them custom etched with any logo. I ran some on my M3, which I tracked frequently with zero issues (Tikore are used in several HP applications with no issues on the track).

However, given the high tq required for the OEM nuts, the greater weight and rotating mass (brakes) of the GT350, and the higher torque (for an NA engine), and greater grip levels, I'm staying with the stock Ford (or GT40) lug nuts to be extra safe.
 

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You have a weak link there amongst your titanium lugs. That factory wheel lock does nothing to protect your wheel from theft... I was able to remove mine without the lock key in 5 seconds.
Agreed. I need to find a better locking option to use for the street, but haven't found one that will match in appearance/size.

Thoughts?
 

Hack

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Grade 5 6AL4V Titanium bolts and nuts have a nominal tensile strength of 150,000 PSI. This is well below the tensile strength of the steel nuts supplied by Ford. However, Grade 5 titanium nuts are certainly strong enough for this application.
Titanium has a different preload requirement because it stretches differently than steel. I wouldn't be too concerned about galling unless titanium is threaded into titanium.
75-80 Ft lbs is adequate for the 1/2/20 titanium nuts, but I would follow the manufacturers recommendation. if you want really top quality, I would look at Poggipolini or Tikore.
You are saying the nut stretches? Sure doesn't sound right to me. The wheel stud is what stretches. The nut is going to have more compressive loading rather than being loaded in tension like the stud.
 

DrumReaper

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You may want to share why you weren't able to use the lock key. I know why but others may not...
Good point...

While the torque required on the Ti lugs may be less, that factory lock lug is still recommended to be torqued at 150+/-15. I had two lock nuts shear the center portion just above 135.
 

DrumReaper

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Agreed. I need to find a better locking option to use for the street, but haven't found one that will match in appearance/size.

Thoughts?
Unfortunately none that I recommend. Even gorillas are prone. Basically, if a thief wants your wheels they'll get them.

So, the best insurance is abstinence. If I take a trip where I know my car will be overnight, I just change out the wheels.
 

Forgedwheeler

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You are saying the nut stretches? Sure doesn't sound right to me. The wheel stud is what stretches. The nut is going to have more compressive loading rather than being loaded in tension like the stud.
The Ti threads are in tension and they won't tolerate 135-150 ft lbs. Ti is not as strong a material as hardened steel.
However, Ti has a better strength-to-weight ratio. It's value in this case is limited because so little Ti is used in a lug nut.
In general, TI has the properties that make it ideal for unsprung weight applications. It weighs 45% less than steel, has good (but not great) tensile strength and is 100% corrosion free. I use them because I hate rust and I've had more than one lug nut seize on a stud due to rust and corrosion.
If you have an unlimited budget, switching to Ti studs, even hubs,, carbon brakes and really lightweight wheels will have a profound positive effect on performance.
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