14x1.5 TITANIUM wheel lug nuts

[try714]

Hi, I wonder anyone used the titanium lug nuts yet, or opinion about this products?

https://ozmoengineering.com/product/m14x1-5-conical-lugnuts/

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[Epiphany]

Nice hardware.

You do have to be careful with Titanium with respect to galling. Most manufacturers specify a thread lubricant to minimize the potential for it to occur. You do want to be as accurate as possible and in the case of using it on a production vehicle I'd suggest testing of the fastener to verify preload as opposed to just blindly going with a "30-40% reduction in torque." This manufacturer also suggests using the turn of the nut method to test - far from optimum. The best way would be to send a couple of nuts/studs out for testing to have an independent third party verify a preload range that is applicable in this case. Sadly, that isn't the most inexpensive means to verify.

 

[Mach4.6]

I run them, they're a nice piece, you'll save 1/2 per wheel also
Using the method described in the instruction sheet, I wound up torquing them to 70 lbs,
had a couple of races with them already and so far so good

 

[FP350S]

Nice hardware.

You do have to be careful with Titanium with respect to galling. Most manufacturers specify a thread lubricant to minimize the potential for it to occur. You do want to be as accurate as possible and in the case of using it on a production vehicle I'd suggest testing of the fastener to verify preload as opposed to just blindly going with a "30-40% reduction in torque." This manufacturer also suggests using the turn of the nut method to test - far from optimum. The best way would be to send a couple of nuts/studs out for testing to have an independent third party verify a preload range that is applicable in this case. Sadly, that isn't the most inexpensive means to verify.

Does the lug nut being used with OEM rim determine the torque spec required or the rim itself?

I ask because I ordered a set of Monster Lugs and packing says to torque between 75-95 lbs. Called manufacturer and they said ok to torque to 150 OEM specs.

 

[firestarter2]

Does the lug nut being used with OEM rim determine the torque spec required or the rim itself?

I ask because I ordered a set of Monster Lugs and packing says to torque between 75-95 lbs. Called manufacturer and they said ok to torque to 150 OEM specs.

I have those, mine have started to rust in spots. Otherwise I like the look.

 

[FP350S]

I have those, mine have started to rust in spots. Otherwise I like the look.

Thanks but which torque spec did you use? :doh:

 

[TheDeadCow]

Nice hardware.

You do have to be careful with Titanium with respect to galling. Most manufacturers specify a thread lubricant to minimize the potential for it to occur. You do want to be as accurate as possible and in the case of using it on a production vehicle I'd suggest testing of the fastener to verify preload as opposed to just blindly going with a "30-40% reduction in torque." This manufacturer also suggests using the turn of the nut method to test - far from optimum. The best way would be to send a couple of nuts/studs out for testing to have an independent third party verify a preload range that is applicable in this case. Sadly, that isn't the most inexpensive means to verify.

I run them, they're a nice piece, you'll save 1/2 per wheel also
Using the method described in the instruction sheet, I wound up torquing them to 70 lbs,
had a couple of races with them already and so far so good

IMO, I wouldn't touch these with a 10ft pole for the above reasons.

1/2lb per wheel isn't worth it for possible aggravation of having a nut gall out on a stud.

Just my .02 tho

 

[Epiphany]

I run them, they're a nice piece, you'll save 1/2 per wheel also
Using the method described in the instruction sheet, I wound up torquing them to 70 lbs,
had a couple of races with them already and so far so good

Interesting. Paul, were the included instructions specific to the 150ft-lb M14 x 1.5 Mustang wheel studs? Just curious because even on the high side of the general recommendation I see on the linked page (30%-40%) you'd end up with 90ft-lbs. I understand Ford has a +/- 15ft-lb spec but I'm not so sure you can correlate that variance to a given percentage.

 

[try714]

Titanium rusted too?

 

[firestarter2]

Thanks but which torque spec did you use? :doh:

150 ft/lbs. I am referring to the Monster Lugs not the Ti ones.

 

[try714]

Does the lug nut being used with OEM rim determine the torque spec required or the rim itself?

I ask because I ordered a set of Monster Lugs and packing says to torque between 75-95 lbs. Called manufacturer and they said ok to torque to 150 OEM specs.[/QUOTI
I saw this, I wonder if this worked wonder for the car?

 

[Tomster]

150 ft/lbs is a lot. I only torque to 130. Epiphany is a resident expert in this area and I respect his opinions in this area. However, I just can't seem to bring myself to the full 150. I err on the lower side off the tolerance and then some

 

[Epiphany]

Does the lug nut being used with OEM rim determine the torque spec required or the rim itself?

I ask because I ordered a set of Monster Lugs and packing says to torque between 75-95 lbs. Called manufacturer and they said ok to torque to 150 OEM specs.

The rim isn't the factor rather but the total clamp force deemed necessary, and as such stud size, etc. Nuts should be sacrificial as opposed to the stud but it doesn't always work out that way. An OEM will determine a torque factor based on the stud size, material, and thread pitch that gives them the amount of clamp force (and ultimately, friction) they are looking for. In the end, it's all about preload or fastener stretch. Required clamp force will typically be somewhere around 65% of fastener proof load stress, a figure that is well below the yield point of the fastener.

150 ft/lbs is a lot. I only torque to 130. However, I just can't seem to bring myself to the full 150. I err on the lower side off the tolerance...

The plus/minus tolerance is 15. That means the range is from 135 to 165. Too little torque and you risk fatigue from improper preload on the fastener. Too much and the fastener may yield and fail. Also of importance is the amount of friction in the joint (Is rust present? If so, how much? Was a thread lubricant used? Etc.). In addition, all of this assumes the installer has a properly calibrated torque wrench and is applying the torque to the joint properly when tightening.

Fastener science is indeed interesting. My only recommendation here is to avoid impact wrenching your wheels, ever.

 

[Minn19]

150 ft/lbs is a lot. I only torque to 130. Epiphany is a resident expert in this area and I respect his opinions in this area. However, I just can't seem to bring myself to the full 150. I err on the lower side off the tolerance and then some

My F150 is the same spec and I run a winter set on it. I've torqued both sets to the 150lbs and have not noticed any issues. I guess we'll see after a couple more years go by.

 

[50 Deep]

I run the ZL1 Addons set. No issues so far. Torqued to 148 lbs. only recommendation is to be sure to use a deep socket. These are open ended and threaded all the way through to accommodate extended lug nuts

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