Best socket for extended Titanium Lug nuts

Angrey

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I searched, couldn't find what I needed.

I have a set of the Exhibitions of speed Titanium extended lugs.

I bought this socket but it has in interior shoulder that prevents biting the entire length of the hex.

Amazon.com: ARES 70021-1/2-Inch Drive 19MM Non-Marring Impact Lug Nut Socket - Protective Sleeve Protects Custom Rims and Lug Nuts from Damage - Color Coded and Laser Etched for Easy Identification : Automotive

Ideally I'd prefer something with a delrin sleeve (non marring to protect the wheels) but it seems like most of the long/extended sockets don't offer that. I guess I'd choose taking a better bite of the lug (extension) than the protective sleeve.

For longer open ended sockets what are you guys using?

 

JeremyPro5.0

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It says its made of aluminum?????

I would not use an aluminum socket to torque wheel nuts ever.

No matter what you use, you are going to get some marring. Just be careful and never use power tools. Higher end sockets like snap-on, mac, etc are generally made and fit the best and will cause the least distortion to the lug nut.

You ideally want a nice snug fit, not tight, but snug and do most of your loosening to remove and screwing on by hand to lessen marks. Only initial breaking free and final torqueing should be done with a wrench if you are seriously anal about not wanting to leave marks.

All the gimmicks and gizmos out there really don't work, they just cost you money and generally lead to tools slipping and causing even more damage to the part and sometimes adjacent parts (i.e. wheels or your knuckles).
 

galaxy

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It does. I got a 6 point socket and it fits over it about as good as you could want. A testament to how exact T’s @50 Deep these lugs are manufactured.
 

50 Deep

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Good question. Here is a little info.

The titanium lug nuts were designed specifically to avoid the need for any special sockets. A standard 19 mm chrome socket is sufficient. The smaller diameter of the lug nut provides more room around your lug nut recess, as does the standard chrome socket. The height of the lug nut also keeps you from having to go into the lug nut bore to make contact. With those paired together you should never really come close to marring anything.

In most cases the added diameter of a protective sleeve or impact socket reduces the amount of clearance you have.
 

GT4EVR

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@Angrey, if none of the other suggestions meet your needs, Lowe's sells a Craftsman 3 piece (17/19/21 mm), deep well, 6 point, 1/2 inch drive socket set for $27.00, advertised as non-marring to wheels. It's Item # 1916383, Model # CMMT98282. I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I thought I'd pass it on in case it is.
 

galaxy

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I probably could have been clearer in my description, but...like T said...if you're worried about marring to the wheels, keep in mind if it doesn't touch at all there will be no marring. My SnapOn sockets don't even come close to touching the hole around the lug on my Signature wheels. Any normal, standard, chrome socket is going to replicate this. But I have a thing for SnapOn...
 
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Angrey

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I'm less worried about marring the wheels (I can control that and I'm not using a gun) I just want to bite as much of the hex portion as possible so as not to damage the $400 Titanium nuts.
 

JAJ

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I'm less worried about marring the wheels (I can control that and I'm not using a gun) I just want to bite as much of the hex portion as possible so as not to damage the $400 Titanium nuts.
How about these? https://shop.snapon.com/product/Non-marring-Metric-Socket-Inserts/1-4"-and-3/8"-Drive-Metric--19–15-mm-Non-Marring-Socket-Insert/PSCM1915

EDIT: Or these Socket insert, hex profile (machine operation) | Socket (impact operation) | Hand Tools | Products | HAZET-WERK - Hermann Zerver GmbH & Co. KG
 
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Angrey

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Thanks, I guess I'm not being very clear. Yes, I'm a LITTLE concerned about marring the Titanium lugs, but I should have been more descript. The Titanium nuts have a longer hex section which I'd like to take full advantage of and distribute the torque/load over all of the hex facets, not just the end.

There's a misconception that Titanium is stronger than steel. In terms of absolute strength, it's not. It is however stronger per unit of weight, as it's 40% lighter than typical steel alloy.

I'm trying to avoid mangling or rounding of the nut by grabbing as much (or all) of it as possible.

All the long/extended sockets I've been able to try or see really do have a longer barrel, but internally they feature some sort of shoulder or internal support structure that prevents the full hex opening. This is useful for torquing a nut that's deep on a protruding bolt. But when trying to grab a nut that has a deeper hex section, the socket stops against the shoulder (not much further than the typical depth of a steel nut).

It's not the end of the world if I can't find something, but if I'm going to torque them down to the required threshold, I'd like to bite as much of the nut as possible.

We've all been forced to torque on a nut where the socket or wrench isn't able to fully seat or grab the whole faceted section, that's the feeling I'm trying to avoid. Something that's deep but has internally enough room for the longer hex on the Ti nuts.
 

JAJ

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Thanks, I guess I'm not being very clear. Yes, I'm a LITTLE concerned about marring the Titanium lugs, but I should have been more descript. The Titanium nuts have a longer hex section which I'd like to take full advantage of and distribute the torque/load over all of the hex facets, not just the end.

There's a misconception that Titanium is stronger than steel. In terms of absolute strength, it's not. It is however stronger per unit of weight, as it's 40% lighter than typical steel alloy.

I'm trying to avoid mangling or rounding of the nut by grabbing as much (or all) of it as possible.

All the long/extended sockets I've been able to try or see really do have a longer barrel, but internally they feature some sort of shoulder or internal support structure that prevents the full hex opening. This is useful for torquing a nut that's deep on a protruding bolt. But when trying to grab a nut that has a deeper hex section, the socket stops against the shoulder (not much further than the typical depth of a steel nut).

It's not the end of the world if I can't find something, but if I'm going to torque them down to the required threshold, I'd like to bite as much of the nut as possible.

We've all been forced to torque on a nut where the socket or wrench isn't able to fully seat or grab the whole faceted section, that's the feeling I'm trying to avoid. Something that's deep but has internally enough room for the longer hex on the Ti nuts.
Two things to think about - first, the Snap-on socket has a fiber reinforced plastic liner, and that's not as strong as titanium, so if it doesn't break, titanium won't either. Also, if it deforms instead of breaking, it'll deform in a way that distributes the forces more evenly on itself and on the nut, so again, the titanium should be ok.

So much for esoteric theory, now let's talk practical.

How deep are the flanks on the titanium nuts? I went out and checked, and my non-marring sockets have a flank depth of around an inch, and my "normal" deep sockets, both impact and thin-wall, have a flank depth of around 1.5 inches. For your purposes, a well-made flank-drive deep socket may be all you need.
 

galaxy

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Yes, seems you are maybe waaaay overthinking this one. A quality 19mm (ergo the SnapOn) is not gonna round anything, not matter how much of the flanks you grab.
 

 
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